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--- r6_rearsets_swap [2009/08/16 21:30] – created 173.168.75.179
+++ r6_rearsets_swap [2020/10/19 11:50] (current) – external edit 127.0.0.1
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-Heres my write up on mounting R6 rearsets on the FZR frame.
+Heres my write up on mounting R6 rearsets on the FZR frame. I hope this can be understood it looks kind of complicated.
-I hope this can be understood it looks kind of complicated.\\
+The exaust may have to be adjusted or a new pipe added in order to clear the new rearsets.All of the aluminum is T-6061 bought from speedy metals( they sell small cuts of metal -aluminum, chrome alloy, steel,and the threaded rod etc..) for strength.
+The reason I use 3/8 plates is they can be easily cut and shaped with what most of us have laying around our shop(drill,bench grinder,side grinder).These parts could be machined from a large chunk if you have the right equipment.I tried this at first , but its very hard to machine a 1& 1/2 inch hunk of t-6061 aluminum with a drill press and a side grinder.
+All bolts should be grade 8 or better for strength and lock tight should be used on everything. The heim joints used for the shifter linkage can be bought cheap on ebay or from summit or jeggs ( I think on summits and jeggs websites they are listed as rod ends but a heim joint and a rod end look like the same thing to me) are 1/4 inch right hand threads.
+**Note by Yamaha-George**(metric is available too in both LH & RH threads so that adjustability is easier)
+YOU NEED TO INSTALL A LOCK NUT ON THEM ( WHICH IS NOT SHOWN IN THE PICS) SO THEY DONT BACK OFF.
+You can put a steel or aluminum sleeve on the threaded rod for added strength or a rubber hose to make it look better. the threads on the heim joints and threaded rod are 1/4 x 28 ( fine thread).The R6 brake line bolts right up to the FZR brake caliper.
+----
+{{:rearsetmount.jpg|}}
+----
+{{:shifty.jpg|}}
+----
+{{:shift2.jpg|}}
+----
+{{:shift3.jpg|}}
+----
+{{:shift5-2.jpg|}}
+----
+{{:rear-set-a.jpg |}}
+----
+{{:shifter4.jpg|}}
+----
+{{:shift6.jpg|}}
+----
+{{:shift7.jpg|}}
+----
+**Author:-  Tlc2Cann   2009-08-16
+**
-   The exhaust may have to be adjusted or a new pipe added in order to clear the new rearsets.\\
-All of the aluminum is T-6061 bought from speedy metals( they sell small cuts of metal -aluminum, chrome alloy, steel,and the threaded rod etc..) for strength. \\
-The reason I use 3/8 plates is they can be easily cut and shaped with what most of us have laying around our shop(drill,bench grinder,side grinder). These parts could be machined from a large chunk if you have the right equipment. I tried this at first , but its very hard to machine a 1& 1/2 inch hunk of t-6061 aluminum with a drill press and a side grinder. All bolts should be grade 8 or better for strength and lock tight should be used on everything. The heim joints used for the shifter linkage can be bought cheap on ebay or from summit or jeggs ( I think on summits and jeggs websites they are listed as rod ends but a heim joint and a rod end look like the same thing to me) are 1/4 inch right hand threads. YOU NEED TO INSTALL A LOCK NUT ON THEM ( WICH IS NOT SHOWED IN THE PICS) SO THEY DONT BACK OFF.You can put a steel or aluminum sleeve on the threaded rod for added strength or a rubber hose to make it look better. the threads on the heim joints and threaded rod are 1/4 x 28 ( fine thread).The R6 brake line bolts right up to the FZR brake caliper..
-http://i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh371/tlc2cann/shifty.jpg
-http://i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh371/tlc2cann/shift2.jpg
-http://i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh371/tlc2cann/shift3.jpg
-http://i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh371/tlc2cann/shift5-2.jpg
-http://i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh371/tlc2cann/shift2.jpg
-http://i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh371/tlc2cann/photo.jpg
-http://i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh371/tlc2cann/shifter4.jpg
-http://i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh371/tlc2cann/shift6.jpg
-http://i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh371/tlc2cann/shift7.jpg