I know how to sync the carbs...
two bottle method!
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It won't be coils because #3 and #4 are on separate coils. If you have a coil issue it will run on #1 and #4, or on #2 and #3.shredex wrote:put new plugs into 3&4 but still reading only about 115 degrees...i dont have a multimeter to test the coils but I might stick my fzr coils on it and try again

yea, I knew that but just figured maybe the coil wires were swaped aroundreelrazor wrote:
It won't be coils because #3 and #4 are on separate coils. If you have a coil issue it will run on #1 and #4, or on #2 and #3.



Sounds rich still bub. What do you have it idling at?shredex wrote: Im able to give her throttle and it revs up and everything good...doesnt sound right though...might need to drill out caps and adjust A/F screws
but there is one problem, if I really quickly snap open the throttle then the rpms go to low and almost stalls out. but if I do it at a nice pace then she will rev up.
its just if I snap it from idle.



back tire needs airsweekster wrote:Ok we need video of you riding it. With the fuel bowls full you should have at least a minute or two of ride time. Up the street and back. Do it..

are you still running it without the airbox on like in the videos? It will do that without the airbox on or with an incorrect a/f ratio.shredex wrote:if I really quickly snap open the throttle then the rpms go to low and almost stalls out. but if I do it at a nice pace then she will rev up.
its just if I snap it from idle.















Make sure bike is in Neutral first bubmatch417 wrote:shock bolt: I've seen bolts similar to that, it looks like it's supposed to be tapered.
sprocket removal: I used an impact gun.

R3TARD wrote:Make sure bike is in Neutral first bubmatch417 wrote:shock bolt: I've seen bolts similar to that, it looks like it's supposed to be tapered.
sprocket removal: I used an impact gun.
