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You may wish to refer to the clutch drawing at:- http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx

- The manual says:

• Incorrect clutch adjustment
• Weak clutch springs
• Worn clutch plates
• Damaged pressure plate
• Clutch release mechanism damage

If you just need to adjust the cable more, that's easy:-

• First, loosen the adjuster and the hand lever.
• Then, remove the lower left fairing.
• On the front of the sprocket cover there's a round black rubber cap. Remove it.
• Under it you'll have a, I wanna say 12mm, nut; loosen it. Turn the phillips screw until the slightest bit of resistance is felt.
• Turn it out again and tighten once more until the slightest bit of resistance is felt, then back out a 1/4 of a turn.

• Tighten the nut without moving the screw, check for free play at the hand lever, adjust as needed.

You may want to give it a try while the fairings off. The first time I did this I tightened too much and had to pull it all off again.

The clutch is a wet-multi-plate type which operates immersed in engine oil. It is mounted on the right-hand side of the transmission main shaft. The clutch can be serviced with the engine in the frame. The clutch release mechanism is mounted in the drive sprocket cover and is cable operated by the left-hand clutch lever. The release pushrod rides within the transmission main shaft.

1. Remove the lower fairings on both sides.

2. Drain the oil.

3. Remove the drive sprocket cover.

4. Using a criss cross pattern, loosen then remove the bolts securing the clutch cover. Remove the cover and gasket, don't loose the locating dowels.

5. Loosen the 6 pressure plate screws in a criss cross pattern. Then remove the screws and springs.

6. Remove the pressure plate.

7. Remove all of the clutch plates, has notches on the outside, and friction discs, has notches on the inside. Stack the plates and discs in order of removal.

8. Remove the short push rod from the end of the transmission shaft.

9. Using a magnet, pull the steel ball out of the end of the transmission main shaft.

10. Straighten out the locking tab on the lock nut.

Note: To keep the clutch housing from turning when removing the clutch hub nut in Step 11, use a “Grabbit” tool, or equivalent.

NOTE BY Yamaha-George: The “Special Tool from Yamaha” can be duplicated by taking an old clutch steel from a FZR and a 1/2“ diameter rod OR tube with a slot along its axis wide enough to accept the thickness of the steel plate. Weld the two together & hey presto a clutch tool

11. Loosen, then remove the clutch nut.

12. Slide off the lock washer.

13. Remove the clutch boss.

14. Slide off the grooved thrust washer.

15. Use a dental tool or pick and withdraw the spacer and then the bearing from the center of the clutch housing.

16. Move the clutch housing over to one side to clear the crankcase and remove the clutch housing.

17. Slide the thrust washer and collar off the transmission shaft.

18. Pull the long pushrod out of the transmission main shaft tunnel.

1. Clean all clutch parts in petroleum-based solvent such as commercial solvent or kerosene and thoroughly dry with compressed air.

2. Measure the free length of each clutch spring. 5 springs, standard length is 35 mm or 1.32 in.; Minimum length is 32.6 mm or 1.28 in. Replace any springs that have sagged to the service limit or less.

3. Measure the thickness of each friction disc at several places around the disc. 9 discs, standard thickness is 2.9-3.1 mm or 0.1142-0.1220 in; minimum 2.8 mm or 0.11 in. Replace any discs that have worn to the service limit or less.

4. Measure the thickness of each clutch plate at several places around the plate. 8 plates, standard thickness is 1.8-2.2 mm or 0.072-0.085 in. Replace any plates that are worn. Yamaha does not provide wear limit specifications for the clutch plates.

5. Check the clutch plates for warpage on a surface plate such as a piece of plate glass. Warp limit minimum is 2.8 mm or 0.11 in. Replace any plate that is warped to the service limit or more.

6. Inspect the clutch housing for the following:

   a. Check the fingers for cracks, nicks or galling where they come in contact with the friction dics tabs.
   They must be smooth for chatter free operation. If any severe damage is evident, the components should be replaced.

   b. Check the outer gear and the oil pump drive gear for tooth wear, damage or cracks.
   Replace the clutch housing if necessary.

   c. Inspect the damping springs for breakage or wear. Replace the clutch housing if necessary.

   d. Check the center bearing bore for cracks, deep scoring, excessive wear or heat discoloration.

If the bearing bore is damaged, also check the clutch bearing and bearing spacer for damage. Replace worn or damaged parts.

7. Inspect the clutch boss for the following:

  a. Check the grooves for cracks, nicks or galling where they come in contact with the friction dics tabs.

They must be smooth for chatter free operation. If any severe damage is evident, the components must be replaced.

  b. Inspect the posts for wear or galling. If any severe damage is evident, the components must be replaced.

  c. Inspect the inner splines for damage. Remove any small nicks with an oilstone.

If damage is severe, the clutch boss must be replaced.

8. Inspect the posts and grooves in the pressure plate. If they show signs of cracks, wear or galling the pressure plate should be replaced.

9. Inspect the long pushrod for bending or damage. If the pushrod is bent to the limit of 1.28 mm or 0.020 in., it will hang up in the transmission shaft tunnel. Replace rod if necessary.

10. Inspect the short push rod where it contacts the long pushrod and push lever assembly. Inspect the O-ring seal for wear and hardness or discoloration. Replace the O-ring if it's condition is doubtful.

11. Check the grooved thrust washer for galling or damage, replace if necessary.

12. Inspect the spacer, thrust washer and collar for wear or damage and replace if necessary.

1. Install the long pushrod into the transmission main shaft tunnel.

2. Slide the collar and the thrust washer onto the transmission shaft.

3. Install the clutch housing onto the transmission shaft.

4. Install the bearing into the clutch housing.

5. Center the clutch housing over the transmission shaft and install the spacer into the bearing.

6. Slide the grooved thrust washer onto the transmission shaft.

7. Install the clutch boss.

8. Install the lock washer and index the locking tab into the receptacle in the clutch boss.

9. Install the clutch nut.

10. Use the same tool setup used during removal to hold the clutch boss in place and tighten the clutch nut to 70 N•M or 50 ft.-lbs. Remove special tool.

11. Bend down one of the locking tabs against one of the flats on the locknut.

12. Install the steel ball into the end of the transmission main shaft.

13. Make sure the O-ring seal is in place and install the short push rod into the end of the transmission shaft. Note: If new friction discs and clutch plates are being installed, apply new engine oil to all surfaces to avoid having the clutch lock up when used for the first time.

14. Onto the clutch hub, install the first friction disc, then a clutch plate.

15. Continue to install the discs and plates in that order. The last item is a friction disc.

16. Install the pressure plate.

17. Install the springs and screws into the pressure plate.

18. Tighten the 6 pressure plate screws in several stages and in a criss cross pattern. Tighten the screws to 6 N•M or 4.3 ft.-lbs.

19. Make sure the dowel pins are in place and install a new gasket.

20. Install the clutch cover and bolts. Tighten the bolts securely in a criss cross pattern.

21. Install the engine sprocket cover.

22. Refill the engine oil.

23. Adjust the clutch.

24. Install the fairings.

a QUICK run thro PLATE changing WITHOUT all the inspection Sequence Just be sure you know what you are looking at here

It's not so much difference between new and used, as it is between stock (firm) and Barnett (freakin' stiff). If your bike isn't 'built', or used for drag racing or something similarly abusive, you might want to stay stock. Reelrazor (one of the mechanical SMEs around here) has commented that he prefers stock friction plates over Barnett; YMMV.

You asked about whether this could be done with common hand tools - yes, absolutely. You could theoretically do it with the bike's toolkit, but I wouldn't really want to try undoing the spring bolts with a Phillips screwdriver…

There really isn't much to it:

• 1) soak new friction plates in clean motor oil overnight

• 2) remove the 10 Allen bolts on the clutch cover (note which holes have the long ones)

• 3) remove the clutch cover (you will spill a little oil; have something underneath), don't lose the 2 dowel pins
• 4) remove the spring bolts using a socket wrench if possible, otherwise an impact driver (fat screwdriver you smack with a hammer) is a really good idea
• 5) remove springs, pressure plate, and plate pack
• 6) clean the clutch cover gasket surface, removing any stuck-on gasket, gasket goo, or other crud. Make sure it doesn't wind up in your engine
• 7) install 9 frictions and 8 steel plates, friction first, alternate friction and steel. The steels have a round edge and a stamped edge, and a tab on the OD. Install the steels so the round edges are all out or all in; don't alternate. The tabs should NOT overlap, spread them around the circle.
• 8) Install the pressure plate so the triangle on the plate and dot on the hub line up (I might have dot and triangle mixed up). The pressure plate goes on 5 ways, only one will work properly.
• 9) Install the springs and spring bolts; torque to 4.3 ft.lb - that's all! Over torque one of these, and you're replacing the clutch hub. The spring towers can't accept a thread repair insert.
• 10) Apply light coat of oil to new gasket, and install gasket, dowel pins and cover. Gasket goo shouldn't be necessary. Torque cover bolts to 7.2 lb.ft (good hand-snug, don't reef).

You're done!