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no_spark_now_what

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no_spark_now_what [2011/11/23 08:57] – adminfzrno_spark_now_what [2020/10/19 11:51] (current) – external edit 127.0.0.1
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 +<HTML><center><span style="font-size:180%;text-align:center;font-weight:bold;">It won't spark! Now what?</span>
 +<BR><span style="font-size:120%;text-align:center;font-weight:bold;">by DonTZ125</span></center></HTML>\\
 +
 I'm surprised it's taken me this long to come up with this, but I can be a lazy SOB when I (don't) put my mind to it. There have been many inquiries, here and on the Archives, from people who aren't getting a spark. The first impulse when seeing the 17th inquiry in a particular month is to cry "RTFM!", followed closely by "Use the f'n search!" With that out of my system, I will acknowledge that the manual is a) difficult to read sometimes and b) not readily to hand in all garages; that, and the search systems on both sites suck to greater and lesser degrees. I'm surprised it's taken me this long to come up with this, but I can be a lazy SOB when I (don't) put my mind to it. There have been many inquiries, here and on the Archives, from people who aren't getting a spark. The first impulse when seeing the 17th inquiry in a particular month is to cry "RTFM!", followed closely by "Use the f'n search!" With that out of my system, I will acknowledge that the manual is a) difficult to read sometimes and b) not readily to hand in all garages; that, and the search systems on both sites suck to greater and lesser degrees.
  
-**Usual disclaimers apply. This guide is intended to assist the shade-tree mechanic, and is in no way idiot-proof.**  +<html><span style="color:red;font-size:120%;text-align:center;font-weight:bold;">Usual disclaimers apply. This guide is intended to assist the shade-tree mechanic, and is in no way idiot-proof.</span></html>  
  
 Ok. You've pulled your #3 & 4 caps off, unscrewed the spark plugs, re-inserted the plugs into the caps and set them on the head such that the plugs are grounded. You turn the engine over, and ... no spark. Ok. You've pulled your #3 & 4 caps off, unscrewed the spark plugs, re-inserted the plugs into the caps and set them on the head such that the plugs are grounded. You turn the engine over, and ... no spark.
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 **__Battery__** **__Battery__**
 +
   * Check that the cells are full and the plates aren't warped. Top up with distilled water if necessary.   * Check that the cells are full and the plates aren't warped. Top up with distilled water if necessary.
   * Check static (off) voltage (>12v). Charge if necessary (off the bike). Top up cells if necessary.   * Check static (off) voltage (>12v). Charge if necessary (off the bike). Top up cells if necessary.
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 **__Coils and wiring__** **__Coils and wiring__**
 +
 The FZRs have 12 Volt coils, so anything less than 12V delivered to them = a weak spark or no spark at all. When the starter is engaged the voltage delivered drops, but should still be above 10V. Corroded connections can and will reduce the voltage, seriously affecting the bike's ability to fire up. The FZRs have 12 Volt coils, so anything less than 12V delivered to them = a weak spark or no spark at all. When the starter is engaged the voltage delivered drops, but should still be above 10V. Corroded connections can and will reduce the voltage, seriously affecting the bike's ability to fire up.
  
-Take a reading of the battery voltage+  * Take a reading of the battery voltage
   * Find your coils. Turn the key switch and kill switch ON. Measure the voltage (versus battery ground) to both coil low-tension inputs (Red/White wires) at the coil solder joints. Anything more than a 0.5v drop from battery voltage can cause a weak or no spark.   * Find your coils. Turn the key switch and kill switch ON. Measure the voltage (versus battery ground) to both coil low-tension inputs (Red/White wires) at the coil solder joints. Anything more than a 0.5v drop from battery voltage can cause a weak or no spark.
-If the voltage drop is greater than 0.5 volts a likely cause is a loose or dirty ignition connector (located close to the radiator filler cap - Red and Brown wires), and / or the coil low-tension connectors. Clean and check the connectors if needed. +  * If the voltage drop is greater than 0.5 volts a likely cause is a loose or dirty ignition connector (located close to the radiator filler cap - Red and Brown wires), and / or the coil low-tension connectors. Clean and check the connectors if needed. 
-Switch off!+  * Switch off!
   * Find your coils, and unplug the low-tension connectors. Check the resistance across each coil-side connector - Red/White wire to Grey or Orange wire (1.8-2.2 ohms). Note that this is very low, and errors in the instrument can affect the reading. Be sure to zero your multimeter before taking these readings. Reconnect the coil wiring. Replace the coil if out of spec.   * Find your coils, and unplug the low-tension connectors. Check the resistance across each coil-side connector - Red/White wire to Grey or Orange wire (1.8-2.2 ohms). Note that this is very low, and errors in the instrument can affect the reading. Be sure to zero your multimeter before taking these readings. Reconnect the coil wiring. Replace the coil if out of spec.
   * Disconnect the battery negative cable (black).   * Disconnect the battery negative cable (black).
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 If the bike is cranking, the safety system SHOULD be satisfied, but it is possible that the wiring between the main relay and the TCI is loose or damaged. If the bike is cranking, the safety system SHOULD be satisfied, but it is possible that the wiring between the main relay and the TCI is loose or damaged.
-Safety system + 
-Switch off! +**__Safety system__** 
-Check for continuity between the battery negative terminal and the center-top wire (6-pin connector) or the bottom second-from-left wire (13-pin connector, looking at pins, wires away). This is your safety signal. Inspect and correct wiring if no continuity. The main relay assembly (diode block on the FZR400) may require cleaning or replacement. + 
-Check Neutral , Clutch, and Side-stand switches for security and function. +  * Switch off! 
-Check for spark.+  * Check for continuity between the battery negative terminal and the center-top wire (6-pin connector) or the bottom second-from-left wire (13-pin connector, looking at pins, wires away). This is your safety signal. Inspect and correct wiring if no continuity. The main relay assembly (diode block on the FZR400) may require cleaning or replacement. 
 +  * Check Neutral , Clutch, and Side-stand switches for security and function. 
 +  * Check for spark.
  
  
 At this point, pretty much all that's left is the TCI. You can swap out a known good box to confirm the system works, but there really isn't a test to confirm that the ignitor works. (I plan on developing a tester sometime in the medium future). If the fuel pump primes when the key and kill switches are turned on, the TCI may have damaged ignition drivers but is likely repairable. If you have no spark and no pump, the outlook is generally poor. At this point, pretty much all that's left is the TCI. You can swap out a known good box to confirm the system works, but there really isn't a test to confirm that the ignitor works. (I plan on developing a tester sometime in the medium future). If the fuel pump primes when the key and kill switches are turned on, the TCI may have damaged ignition drivers but is likely repairable. If you have no spark and no pump, the outlook is generally poor.
  
-Potentially dangerous check to confirm the coils and plugs really do work +**__Potentially dangerous check to confirm the coils and plugs really do work__** 
-Switch off! +  * Switch off! 
-Unplug the 6-pin or 13-pin connector from the TCI. +  * Unplug the 6-pin or 13-pin connector from the TCI. 
-Find and cut two 12" lengths of 16ga wire, and strip 1/4" from both ends. +  * Find and cut two 12" lengths of 16ga wire, and strip 1/4" from both ends. 
-Connect one wire to the Orange wire terminal on the connector. +  * Connect one wire to the Orange wire terminal on the connector. 
-Connect the other wire to the Black wire terminal on the connector. +  * Connect the other wire to the Black wire terminal on the connector. 
-Ensuring the wire ends are not touching, turn on the key and kill switch. +  * Ensuring the wire ends are not touching, turn on the key and kill switch. 
-Strike the two free ends together smartly like you were lighting a match. Have a helper watch for spark at the spark plug. +  * Strike the two free ends together smartly like you were lighting a match. Have a helper watch for spark at the spark plug. 
-Switch off, move the wire on the Orange wire terminal to the Grey terminal. Turn on the power, and repeat the check. +  * Switch off, move the wire on the Orange wire terminal to the Grey terminal. Turn on the power, and repeat the check. 
-Switch off, remove the wires, and reconnect the TCI plug(s).+  * Switch off, remove the wires, and reconnect the TCI plug(s). 
 + 
 +**__What happens if you have spark on some cylinders, but not others?__**
  
-What happens if you have spark on some cylinders, but not others? 
 This is a better situation than 'no spark', since it means that almost everything is working! This is a better situation than 'no spark', since it means that almost everything is working!
  
-Spark failure on a single cylinder is almost always due to a loose, damaged, or out-of-spec cap, lead or plug - everything upstream of the spark lead has to work for the OTHER cylinder to spark. It is entirely possible that a mis-jetted carburetor will foul the plug and cause loss of spark, but this will become obvious as soon as you replace the plug! +  * Spark failure on a single cylinder is almost always due to a loose, damaged, or out-of-spec cap, lead or plug - everything upstream of the spark lead has to work for the OTHER cylinder to spark. It is entirely possible that a mis-jetted carburetor will foul the plug and cause loss of spark, but this will become obvious as soon as you replace the plug! 
-Spark failure on paired cylinders (1-4 or 2-3) is generally the coil or low-tension leads, or the TCI coil driver transistor. It could be a coincidental 'single cylinder' failure (above) of both cylinders. Unplug and swap the two low-tension connectors. If the spark stays on the same plugs (1-4 was sparking, 2-3 wasn't, and it stays that way), both TCI drivers work but the coil, high-tension components or low-tension wiring is bad. If the spark changes to the other set of plugs, then the TCI coil driver is fried. Don't forget to swap the low-tension connectors back to their proper spots! +  * Spark failure on paired cylinders (1-4 or 2-3) is generally the coil or low-tension leads, or the TCI coil driver transistor. It could be a coincidental 'single cylinder' failure (above) of both cylinders. Unplug and swap the two low-tension connectors. If the spark stays on the same plugs (1-4 was sparking, 2-3 wasn't, and it stays that way), both TCI drivers work but the coil, high-tension components or low-tension wiring is bad. If the spark changes to the other set of plugs, then the TCI coil driver is fried. Don't forget to swap the low-tension connectors back to their proper spots! 
-Spark failure on two non-paired cylinders (#1 and #3) is coincidental, and should be treated as 'single cylinder' failures as above.+  * Spark failure on two non-paired cylinders (#1 and #3) is coincidental, and should be treated as 'single cylinder' failures as above.
no_spark_now_what.1322060236.txt.gz · Last modified: 2020/10/19 11:48 (external edit)