Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- clutch-page [2009/06/18 03:18] – 80.177.31.81
+++ clutch-page [2020/10/19 11:51] (current) – external edit 127.0.0.1
@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
-You may wish to refer to the clutch drawing at:-     [[http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx]]
+You may wish to refer to the clutch drawing at:-    [[http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx]]
 ----
@@ Line 10: / Line 10: @@
 ===Clutch slipping===
  - The manual says:
   *  Incorrect clutch adjustment
   *  Weak clutch springs
@@ Line 190: / Line 191: @@
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 ==== Original Author:-   Mark   aka  95FZR600  ========
 ==== WIKI-ized by Y-G ====
+== added to the WIKI 2009-02-02  ==
+==== The Following was written by Don TZ125 ====
+ ==== WiKi-ized by Y-G ====
+== added to the WIKI 2009-06-18 ==
+----
+ **   a QUICK run thro PLATE changing WITHOUT all the inspection Sequence Just be sure you know what you are looking at here **
+It's not so much difference between new and used, as it is between stock (firm) and Barnett (freakin' stiff). If your bike isn't 'built', or used for drag racing or something similarly abusive, you might want to stay stock. Reelrazor (one of the mechanical SMEs around here) has commented that he prefers stock friction plates over Barnett; YMMV.
+You asked about whether this could be done with common hand tools - yes, absolutely. You could theoretically do it with the bike's toolkit, but I wouldn't really want to try undoing the spring bolts with a Phillips screwdriver...
+There really isn't much to it:
+  * 1) soak new friction plates in clean motor oil overnight
+  * 2) remove the 10 Allen bolts on the clutch cover (note which holes have the long ones)
+  * 3) remove the clutch cover (you will spill a little oil; have something underneath), don't lose the 2 dowel pins
+  * 4) remove the spring bolts using a socket wrench if possible, otherwise an impact driver (fat screwdriver you smack with a hammer) is a really good idea
+  * 5) remove springs, pressure plate, and plate pack
+  * 6) clean the clutch cover gasket surface, removing any stuck-on gasket, gasket goo, or other crud. Make sure it doesn't wind up in your engine
+  * 7) install 9 frictions and 8 steel plates, friction first, alternate friction and steel. The steels have a round edge and a stamped edge, and a tab on the OD. Install the steels so the round edges are all out or all in; don't alternate. The tabs should NOT overlap, spread them around the circle.
+  * 8) Install the pressure plate so the triangle on the plate and dot on the hub line up (I might have dot and triangle mixed up). The pressure plate goes on 5 ways, only one will work properly.
+  * 9) Install the springs and spring bolts; torque to 4.3 ft.lb - that's all! **Over torque** one of these, and you're replacing the clutch hub. The spring towers can't accept a thread repair insert.
+  * 10) Apply light coat of oil to new gasket, and install gasket, dowel pins and cover. Gasket goo shouldn't be necessary. Torque cover bolts to 7.2 lb.ft (good hand-snug, don't reef).
-==== WIKI-ized by Y_G  ====
-   Mark's section  ADDED: - 2009-02-02
+You're done!