Sooo, what is a 3BF?

[DonTZ125]

Absolute priority is those brake disks - there are people parting out here and on the Archives, get some reasonably straight disks for cheap. That, or park the bike until you can afford it. Your baby needs you.

The temp gauge is fine.

It sounds like the voltage regulator has failed low. The other option is a failed stator leg, but this is less likely. Go with your plan, follow the flow chart.

You are correct; the white connector is for the EXUP controller. If your bike doesn't have the servo, it doesn't need the controller.

[Evilchicken0]

I'd keep the disks unless they get bad. But I'd also look for a 600 front end and simply bolt it on. If the disks are difficult to find or just typical to this model then its going to cost, either for new ones or for postage from the states. Something like a Foxeye 600 will give you 298 discs and 41mm forks, if you go for a 3he front look for 298 discs this option should be a little cheaper than the foxeye.

[rduraoc]

So I went quickly through the flow chart to find where my electrical problem is coming from. No voltage leak, and when I disconnect the voltage regulator here is what I find:



The burnt connection refers to the red wire. Although it now seemed obvious where my problem was, I measured voltage between every combination of white wires @3000 rpm, and I only get 41-42 V - is this a sign of a weak stator? Should I be prepared for it to fail also?

[DonTZ125]

41-42vac is fine; you want to see 30-60vac. Your pic isn't showing, but a damaged red wire could most certainly cause undercharging.

[rduraoc]

Pic problem solved. The red wire and the metal part of the connector seem to have survived, although the plastic around it has melted. I already have a voltage regulator ordered, hoping that it will solve the problem.

[rduraoc]

Quick update on this: after having disconnected and cleaned the terminals on the VR (when I took the picture above), it now goes to the other extreme. I'm getting around 18V@ 3000 rpm, which is causing my rear light to blow up - I've changed it twice, won't do it again until the new regulator arrives...

Meanwhile, already bought new clutch discs and springs (slipping really bad in high rpms, and 6th gear sometimes doesn't engage, or pops out), new bearings for the steering head, and oil for the front forks... now, if I could only catch a break from work...

[Evilchicken0]

The RegRec is dead. Its not regulating the alternator

[rduraoc]

I'm getting ready to get into the engine (oil, filter, clutch, check valves, compression), and I know that one of the boots that links the airbox to the carburetor is not sitting properly - it was not properly mounted in its previous life and is now slightly warped, and is a real pain to get it to seat properly. Any tips on how to make these fit snugly into the carburetors? Thanks.

[DonTZ125]

Intake boot stew - tastes great, and leaves them soft and supple.

[rduraoc]

I had thought of boiling the boots in water, but hadn't thought of the coolant fluid part - thanks for the tip! I'll throw in some other rubbers that are starting to crack.

[chris6409]

Does the 3tj have a final edition thats black

[dash]

Propane heat with a torch tip works. It was 28 degrees here the other day and I didn't want to take any chances with mis-aligning the boots. Just a little heat was all it took. I had one that was bent severely from previous owner and heat brought it back to life.

[rduraoc]

After a few months in which I had no time to dedicate to my 3BF, last weekend I changed the oil and oil filter, checked valve clearances (they were great!), new clutch discs, spark plugs were good. It was difficult to get her to start again. I had to adapt some rubbers to the airbox-carb linkage, because I destroyed the original ones while trying to soften then (don't ask), and she was running a little lean. But, she was running fine.

Today she starts up but is quite rough. I drive 2-3km, thinking that she needs to warm up. When I stop insisting and pull over, she is having difficulty in idling, and eventually stops. I check the collectors and the #1 cylinder is cold. Damn.

Now, I'm guessing (hoping) that I have an electrical problem, because:

- My battery is dead, I already knew that, it was destroyed by the previous stator and charging didn't save it. Still, if I connect the bike to the car, #1 cylinder is still dead;
- I changed the stator to the 3 plug one, as described here in the forum. I was getting a healthy 14,2V@3.000 rpm - I know, I shouldn't measure that with a dying battery, but it is still good news;
- One of my front light bulbs gave up on life - maybe a sign of an electrical problem?

So, any suggestions on where I should start looking first? Thanks.

[Evilchicken0]

Renew the battery, it could be the lack of charge is causing the problem, the generator is running the bike and still trying to charge the battery.
Renew the sparkplugs as a set and run the engine, if it still fires on 3 cylinders -
Take the airbox off. Run the engine and spray some carb cleaner down No1 carb, if it fires it's the carb.
If it doesn't then look at the HT lead to No1 unscrew the plug cap cut back the lead 10mm and rescrew the cap back on. If it still doesn't fire swap the plugcap from another lead and see if that works. If not use some carb cleaner down it again (you could be unlucky with the lead and carb).

[rduraoc]

Thanks for the reply. I am guessing I have a problem with the spark plug and/or the plug cap, and I hope to have the time to check it tonight - will report back on findings when possible.

Meanwhile I realized I sent you some wrong data: I upgraded the voltage regulator, and not the stator; and it was to the 5 pin one (vs the original 4 pin), and not to a "3 plug one"...