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DonTZ125 wrote:Confirm that your crimps are tight, and that your terminals grip the VRR pins firmly. Pay particular attention to that screwed down mess beside the VRR - when I build a VRR adaptor, I include a 12ga wire to be run direct from the VRR ground pin to the engine.
DonTZ125 wrote:The ground goes to the engine case bolts on the back; follow the ground lead forward from the battery. I've had several customers tell me they couldn't get that particular bolt off with the engine mounted; picking a nearby bolt would do the job just as well, but make sure that whatever bolt (and bolt hole) you pick is CLEAN when you attach the wire.
12.8v is what you should see with the engine OFF! Try measuring it at 5k. As goosefartfan pointed out, measure your AC voltage across the three pairs of stator wires - 1-2, 2-3, 1-3.
0.4A indicates a leak sufficient to draw your battery down while sitting, but not enough to limit your charging voltage that badly. It's another problem, but still something to investigate.
I had to take the airbox and gas tank out to be able to reach the connectors. What a pain. But I found the problem. They melted at the connector which is why I only got readings off one of the white wires. How do I fix this? I got a new stator so that side is already taken care of, but now I'm concerned about the harness connection. Is there anything plug and play? If I got a new connection that was original somehow I could just use the connection you sell Don so it's nice and clean up to the new VRRDonTZ125 wrote:Follow that black cable along, you should come to a 2-pin connector (crank sensor) and 3-pin connector (stator). Check the stator connection for condition, security, combustion (no - really!) and continuity to the VRR on one side and the stator on the other.