Checking Fork Alignment

[dash]

I am interested in checking the alignment with the front of the bike. The bike took a major hit to the front fairing by either a dog or a deer, and the front fender has a road rash/whiskey stripe on one side and the left side bar end was bent. I've straightened the bar and considered heating the fender to correct the alignment, but was concerned about possible fork alignment problems. I've read that the front end should be held up, triple loosened, and fork twisted back into correct position (if that is the problem). Note: The fender/nuts/bolts/plate is structurally OK. I would appreciate your input and advice.

[M in KC]

What you have read is correct. Put the front end on a paddock/front stem stand and loosen the yoke bolts. You should look at the steering stem as well for any signs of stress/fractures. Also take a look at the fork seals if either is weeping or leaking most likely you have a fork leg that is knackered and will have to be replaced. I wouldn't heat anything up you will just take the temper out of anything metal. Everything should fit togehter without too much effort. As was said in a post recently your life depends on this part of the bike working as designed.

[dash]

Took a good chunk of time today going through the front. Both stanchions are bent from impact and the alignment between the top and bottom triple was skewed. I cleaned everything up and packed a bit of grease into the triple bearings and re-set the triple alignment. Put one of the stanchions in a make-shift press to straighten, but the pressure was not enough to "overflex" the tube. Just another task on the growing list of repairs.

[M in KC]

Find some new to you fork tubes. I won't even spend a second's worth of time trying to straighten what you have. By your previous description I'm not suprised by your findings. Look at it this way you now have two new cheater bars for your ratchets/breaker bars, chrome to boot! Now would be a great time to fit an R1 front suspension or some other USD variant.

[dash]

There is no doubt that I will eventually replace the inner tubes with used oem. I was cursed quite a long time ago with the problem of either LOTS OF TIME AND NO MONEY or LOTS OF MONEY AND NO TIME, and I'm in the former right now.

This is my first bike, although not my first mechanical experience. When I'm completely out of cash, I resort to schooldays of soaking in knowledge and learning as much as possible. I've taken my educational experiences and combined them with hands-on learning. I've been dealing with this for the last eight years now. I spend quite a bit of time developing quality build/service/cost sheets on projects (formerly on automobiles, bicycles, etc).

The build sheet for the FZR is quite lengthy and exhaustive, and can be a downer when you go through every nut and bolt and consider the costs to restore to like-new condition, but after two months of going through this bike there is quite a bit of factory craftsmanship and design that lends to a quality machine. I know that I will never re-coupe the time that I've invested in this project, but the education is second to none.

I don't have any special tools, but I make do with the minimals. I try to make good engineering decisions based on finances, feasibility, and function. My background comes from wrenching around and repairing heavy equipment and farm equipment just to keep it in service, but I had to get away from that to concentrate on the craftsmanship in design and mechanics. I like it, but it sure is hard on relationships.

I'm not a "mod-addict." I like oem. I chose the 600 because it is moderately between the "entry" level 250 and the "high" end 1000. These motorcycles don't change much. We're not MotoGP riders. We're just riders. Regular riders. Just a rant.

[dash]

I thought I would follow up on the fork deal...

Here are a few pics from the re-alignment of the yokes. I leveled the bike and pulled a measurement from the rear centerline of the bike to the top yoke fork holds, and then dropped a plumb line from each fork hold and calipered from bottom yoke to plumb line. Is there a more precise measurement to re-set yokes? I thought I would start there while I'm waiting to find a press to straighten the fork inner tubes.

I built a press from some lumber and used an automotive scissor jack for a 2500 lb car, but the press assembly exploded and started to pull the 3" wood screws out of the 4x4 bottom plate!

Here are some pics.

Initial road rash pics:



Bent Fork:


Yoke Re-Align:

[M in KC]

You know since you have the front end torn down as far as you do. I would suggest dropping the steering stem out of the frame and inspecting the stem where it is press fit into the bottom yoke for damage. If the stem isn't straight everything else will be off.

[dash]

I pulled it. It was good. Re-greased bearings. The yokes were off 6-8 degrees.

[M in KC]

Good for you! Here's a for sale ad on the Archives.

http://www.fzrarchives.com/ipb/index.ph ... opic=59851

[dash]

I can't afford to spend cash on that right now...but I'm sure they are a nice luxury item if you can afford them. Straightening the tubes and welding up radiator support is high priority...along with finding a set of used friction plates. I stick to a tight budget without fail, but thanks for the heads-up.

[dash]

Is there any improvement to this press? I'm not having much luck with the straightening. I've already had one explosion from the first design and upgraded to a heavier scissor jack. Do you think it would alter the integrity of the inner tube if i heated it a bit? My only option would be to pound it into submission!

Thanks.

[dash]

Bought a 6-ton Hydraulic Press yesterday, but didn't use a fixture to straighten the tube...I am looking for some straight inner tubes.