Peanut/Starter-Clutch Cover?

[Kazu]

Ok so I just dropped my first bike for the first time and unfortunately, the peanut cover shattered. I don't know much about bikes yet but I'm learning. I've done enough research to tell that people apparently replace this cover first because it's so fragile. Obviously, I need to get another cover. The only issue is I don't know if there are certain brands or models that are better than others. I'm really just looking for a cheap cover that can survive being put down easy.

By the way, I have a 1993 FZR600 Genesis.

[thatkid]

No stock cover can be put down easy and survive. The bikes weight alone will break the stock cover. Look at it crosseyed and it will break. Hell, slap some baby breath against it and it will break. They just suck. NRC makes a nice one and they are probably the only people still making a heavy duty cover for the FZR. They run about $150. Check the for sale section. I have two available there that are heavy duty. I also have cover that will protect a stock cover in a tipover/low speed situation.

Also, welcome!

[dash]

it's an old post, but the best "cover" for falling down was some chassis protection sliders from live.strong6 in the paint and body forum...if you are looking for protection? Looks like a much cheaper option, if you are on a budget like most.

[thatkid]

it's an old post, but the best "cover" for falling down was some chassis protection sliders from live.strong6 in the paint and body forum...if you are looking for protection? Looks like a much cheaper option, if you are on a budget like most.

Those require the ability to weld and to bend pipe and the design on those is flawed. Not a very cheap option of you don't have the machinery or the skills.

[dash]

Just curious...what is the flaw? They look pretty tight.

[thatkid]

The big horizontal piece that runs from top to bottom. It goes down on that and create a ton of friction. More chance of it flipping the bike because it will dig in.

[thatkid]

I did these awhile ago but there wasn't enough interested so I stopped making them.

[dash]

good point...sounds like back to the drawing board.

On your design, I like the ptfe end-cap, and maybe people just weren't ready for their slider yet? They look good too.

I guess you never know when the bike will take a dive? It makes me think of a prototype bicycle i was working on with only front brakes when the chain decided to jump the single speed cassette i designed...OVER THE BARS!

[Kazu]

Alright. Well I do need a cover (thinking about the NRC) and while we're on the topic, I really do need some farm sliders. Seeing to it as I'm on a budget and this is my first bike. I'd rather not destroy anything more on my bike. Haha. I have the ability to weld and I know someone who builds roll cages so they can bend pipe for me but I'm not sure they can bend small pipe at such an acute angle. Are there any other simple yet effective alternatives? If not, can you just direct me to the most effective frame slider design that I can make?

[thatkid]

You can do this with a small puck on the end. Can be done a lathe or I believe I still have some left overs I'd sell you cheap.





I also have these available. The nrc is sold but I have the other two. $140 for the one on the left and $150 for the factory pro. Prices are shipped.



Or I also make these and sell them for a reasonable price. $45 shipped.

[Genesis]

Or I also make these and sell them for a reasonable price. $45 shipped.

will those work with fairings.


Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

[Kazu]

Just one rod would actually protect the bike if it goes down? And what do you mean it can be done a lathe?

[thatkid]

Just one rod would actually protect the bike if it goes down? And what do you mean it can be done a lathe?

On a lathe. My typing fails into the wee hours.

You are looking for points of contact. Between the rod, bar end and usually the can or a rearset, the bike will prop itself up on those and slide to a stop assuming it doesn't hit anything else and dig. That rod is bolted between the solid point on the frame rail through the motor. In a heavy crash it will most likely bend the bolt, but in a heavy crash that is most likely your last concern. In low speeds or tip overs it'll survive. Like I said though, I recommend a small puck on the end.

[thatkid]

will those work with fairings.


Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

They will. They were modeled after some that were designed for under fairing track use. I never got a hold of a stator side so I only made the starter side.

[dash]

wondering if you ever thought to design them to shear on impact?...the bolt that is.