Fuel Pump Main Relay / Flasher Relay Internals

[dash]

I will attempt to keep this brief.

Recently took on a non-running, "frankensteined" basket case (92 FZR), and have been steadily making progress going through the electrical components. After determining that all the external switches, wires, components, etc. are in satisfactory and working condition on the bike, I have disassembled the two aforementioned relay units. After studying the board schematics, wiring diagrams, and the relay components themselves (and after managing to salvage one, and possibly two of the SPDT internal relays) i am in need of some component information that seems to escape my multimeter?

With respect to the fuel pump main relay, I would like to know, if available, the rectifier diode specifications (the part has markings of "06" or "90" with a "4" and a sideways "3". All 4 diodes are the same. I have been unsuccessful at the local electronics brick and mortar store in identifying, and while i have salvaged the fuel pump circuit, I would like to keep the safties in check with respect to the clutch and neutral switches.

Additionally, there is a resistor that is standing straight up (after you remove all the potting compound) in the upper right corner of the flasher relay (viewed from the back side with pin connections at bottom). I have identified the resistor as a 1/4 watt, 203 kOhm +-5% (Colors: R, Bk, O, O, Gold). It seems that this resistor is difficult to find locally, and would like a member to verify if you have a dissembled unit kicking around?

Similarly, I may have need for the NEC MR331-31relay that it in the flasher relay, as i have cleaned the corrosion from the existing switch but have not yet tested for actuation. Also, I am in need of replacing the Omron G4U-1 relay switch inside the fuel pump main relay. It is no longer manufactured, and i couldnt get the Omron salesman to play hardball on recommending a substitute. It seems that the G6E-U is close but not exact?

Thanks for your time, and I appreciate the thoroughness of responses with this post and your previous posts.

[DonTZ125]

The diodes should be replaceable with just about anything - they are there to keep signal-level, well - signals from interfering or back-washing, not rectifying your truck alternator. A 1N4148 or 1N4001 should do the trick just fine.

My charts say your resistor doesn't exist. Gold is 5% tolerance on a 4-band resistor, but isn't used on a 5-band. Double check under bright light and a magnifying glass; R-Bk-O-Gold would be a 20k 5%, common as dirt.

As for the actual relay ... Hrm. The problem is the footprint, since they seem to have been such clever people that they discontinued a relay with bazillions of installations, but don't obviously have anything that has the pin holes in the same position ...

[dash]

Thanks for the reply.

I found my error in the resistor identification. The Tolerance band was brown (1%). I found the replacement online. As per the diodes, I was concerned with the backflow voltage spike amount. In the course of studying, I found that it is not uncommon for such relays to generate some 200v of reverse voltage if not checked with a diode? A 1N4006 is rated at 800v and wondered if that possibly could be the "06" in the existing marking?

[DonTZ125]

It's certainly possible; some manufacturers mark theirs 1N4006, while others simply use 06. The body of the diode should be a stocky (for a diode) 0.2" long x 0.1" OD. Now, that said, the whole point behind a flyback diode is to limit the flyback voltage to pretty much battery voltage. Instantaneous CURRENT may jump, but you certainly don't need a high-voltage diode.

[dash]

Mic'd the "06" diode and found that the O.D.=0.100" and the Length=0.119".

Checked the 1N dimensions (http://www.diodes.com/datasheets/ds28002.pdf) but not sure if i'm in the ball park or not?

I am on an ultra-tight budget to get this project running, and i feel like its a failure to buy a whole new main relay as opposed to replacement of a few parts for less than a price of a good cheeseburger! I should start looking for a new main relay? Once again, thanks for the interest.

[DonTZ125]

An exact match for the diodes doesn't matter. I would suggest 1N4001 from the local hobby store will work just fine. Do you have enough working relays to rebuild one unit? If not, you can use a different and run wires to the pins.

[dash]

I will wire it up using the 1N4001 and see if it works? I can rig a different micro relay using the existing board but i want to avoid "cobbing" something together. That bike has had plenty of that. Thanks again.

[goosefartfan]

don't want to divert the thread, but have you taken out the cdi from the box it's in? If so, how did you do it?
thanks

[dash]

I did not take cdi apart, but i think i recall a good post in the wiki section that details a cdi rebuild and location of components. I'd say careful work with a rotory tool should get it? If you cant find it, I'll look for it in my saved files.

UPDATE: Here is a .pdf link to a similar cdi unit - http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/TCIRebuil ... ebuild.pdf Might Check with DonTZ125 RE: CDI, Very knowledgable.

[DonTZ125]

TCI, not CDI - very different principles of operation. I get the boxes open by soaking them in acetone to dissolve the board coating, which is also the glue that holds the board (and connector faceplate) in the box. Carving with a Dremel is begging for trouble - if nothing else, you now have a gaping hole in your ignitor!

[dash]

good solution.

[goosefartfan]

Don,
need more specifics:
1. do you submerse the whole thing?
2. for how long?
3. how can you tell when it's done?
4. does the board pull out when it's ready? How does it come out?
(edit) 5. what do you recover the circuit board in when it's time to reinstall it to protect from moisture?

thanks again!

[goosefartfan]

I did not take cdi apart, but i think i recall a good post in the wiki section that details a cdi rebuild and location of components. I'd say careful work with a rotory tool should get it? If you cant find it, I'll look for it in my saved files.

UPDATE: Here is a .pdf link to a similar cdi unit - http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/TCIRebuil ... ebuild.pdf Might Check with DonTZ125 RE: CDI, Very knowledgable.

thanks a zillion for the pdf!! VERY helpful!

[dash]

It's always good to get a good nugget towards the end of the semester! Good luck with it. Please post your findings. I'm interested in the internals as well.