Lol, I never thought about it. I've always have put the curved side towards the engine. Never had a problem. I don't really know if that's right? Or if it matters? That's just the way I've always done it.
92 fzr600 Vance & Hines edition, galindo f1 grips, Vance & Hines super sport complete exhaust, oem clutch with Vance & Hines springs, Piaa horn, Hella headlight, Vance & Hines power pak, passenger seat cowl, 07 r6 regulator, ballistic evo2 8 cell, JT 14 tooth sprocket, Joe Florida sportbike multi-color led kit, galindo bar ends,
I always put the curved side to the bolt head...My thinking is that as the bolt compresses the washer it spreads sideways and pushes the flat side outwards too...squashing into the threads where they join each other
never had a leak from there but dont know if its the "correct way" around...just the way I do it
Last edited by DonTZ125 on Thu Dec 27, 2012 4:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason:Double post deleted
I've read more than a few comments that people have torn the threads out of their oil pans, or cracked the pan, over-torquing the drain bolt because of a used crush washer. The piece is only a few dollars - trying to reuse it is false economy.
from memory the washer is copper. If you're too tight to buy a new one or the shop is closed/out of stock, its easy enough to re-soften the item by anealing it
GI,
Stig and i put the washer the same way so........... (does not make it right of course but .......)
DonTZ is absolutely right using the old one is false economy , How ever annealing an old one in an "EMERGENCY" is ok but replace with a new one asap as you found out they are as cheap as chips. I used to keep a whole slew of copper washers in my parts box sourced from the oil rig / plumbing store and they were aLOT cheaper than Yamaha OEM & we had a substantial discount as agents