problem when starting can enyone give advise

[reece]

hi everyone only just joint this site in hope some of you guys maybe able to help me get to the bottom of a ongoing problem.
i have a fzr400rr 1wg wich i have had for about 4years now.i have spent more time working on it than riding it.it has a good engine that runs lovley and smooth.
the problem i have, wich is the problem i have always had is when i go to start it if you dont get it to start on the first attempt you wont get it to start at all.i have stripped and cleaned carbs i have renewed battery i have tested power reg.everything seems ok i suspect it is flooding but not sure.has eny of you guys had this problem?

[Bike_junkie]

Have you checked the coils or the spark plugs? Maybe they are weak or fouled and a little bit of flooding overwhelms what spark the system is able to produce.

[reece]

thanks for the reply
yes i have renewed plugs and checked sparks and they seem ok.the bike starts on the first attempt if it has been left a while but if i let it cut out i will not get it to start again unless i bumb start it or use easy start down the intake.there is always a strong smell of petrol aswell.do you think it could be a carb problem?
regards david

[Bike_junkie]

So if it stalls you have to bump start or use starting fluid. sounds like the battery doesnt have enough juice to give a good spark when cranking. Because when you bump start there isn't the drain of the starter on the system, and starting fluid takes less spark to fire over. Checking the carbs never hurt anyone, is there any other symptoms or just the hard starting?

[nicrod]

I read everywhere on this forum that the voltage regulator/ rectifier is usually the culprit to most electrical/ no start problems.
They are made very shitty and do not dissipate heat AT ALL.
so people upgrade to the yzf/r6/r1 Vr/r's
the vr/r is under your passenger seat on the left side of the bike if you looking at the bars, check it out.

[DonTZ125]

"Dissipating" heat is not the issue, so much as the ground path is convoluted and easily disrupted leading to significant heat generation - shunt-style VRRs do NOT do well with disrupted ground paths, and die very fast. The advantage offered by the newer designs, far more than their dissipation ability, is the dedicated ground wire.

[SouthendChris]

I have a 3LN3 which has the exact symptoms you have. If I use it everyday it will start ok. If I use my other bikes for a few days then there is a chance that it will be a pig to start.

It cranks over ok on the start button. It seems to always just catch or want to start. If it does start it will not rev out however much the throttle is opened.

I dont believe it is a flat or low battery as there have been a few times where I have almost given up and it suddenly fires up fine, thats why I discount the VR too.

I have serviced the bike as best I can but the only things not done yet are the valve clearances so they are next, maybe your need doing? After that I think the carbs might need new emulsion tubes and needles. I am sure it's running a little rich - I have **never** had to use the choke to start it and with over 50,000km on the clock I know they will need looking at.

Doing the valve clearances couldn't hurt.

Chris

[fzrowner1]

mine has same problem got 30k on clock starts but if it conks out it will not go again unless i bump it? it has had new battery its restricted 2 33bhp (only 18) and use choke and it seems to have no effect atall! can anyone help cheers

[gsxridiot]

get some shims and adjust your valve clearences, you will likely be suprised at the difference