someone please help

[DonTZ125]

You are in the unfortunate and annoying position of having to shim twice, because you can't get a good reading. Measure the clearances you can; identify the ones you can't. Pull the cams, note the various shims, do the math for replacement shims so far. Try to identify shims from your selection that will allow you to measure the difficult spots. Rearrange and install everything to allow you to measure the new clearances of the difficult valves ; this may mean that some other valve that HAD a good shim is now out of spec or even immeasurable - don't worry about that for now.

In the best case, you can now completely adjust your clearances just by rearranging what you have. In the worst case, you'll have to buy a couple of shims just to do another intermediate adjustment! Neither of those cases is really likely, so you should be in a position to order in a small set of shims to finish the job.

[buzzawak]

DonTZ125 you confused the hell out of me and I know how to do the shims. (just kidding)

Doing the shims on the FZR are a pain and requires practice to measure them correctly. I would recommend double check all your readings. (unlikely all but one would be out)
This is a link to a program, " Universal moto shim calculator" http://vicdzen.narod.ru/main_eng/. Makes the job a lot easier and it can figure out for you
which shims you can move and which you have to buy. I would first focus on getting the shims you can measure within spec. If it is the case that all but one shim is too tight measure
then you won't have much choice but to buy some thinner shims.

Make sure you are lining up the T mark with the join at the crank case half's on the right stroke for each cylinder.
The high point on the cam lobs are not straight up but angled a bit away from each other.

[sirfunkeybut]

i found a good complete head for 50 that cam out of a running bike and is guaranteed to function properly so im just gonna get it and swap. Im hoping this solves the no start problem so bad

[sirfunkeybut]

ok, so after the swap i got it running and drove it around for about an hour then i parked it. Im going to assume the regulator is bad seeings how after i shut it down it wouldn't start without jumping it or push starting it. Well when i returned the hour later and tried to jump start it it wouldn't do anything, i checked for spark and no go. So with did i fry the ignition module? i have 12 volts at the battery and only 9 at the coils and thats not while cranking. The connections all look good and the coils ohmed good so what should i do now?

[DonTZ125]

Unplug the TCI and measure the voltage at coils again. If you see 12v, you've killed the TCI drivers. If you see 9v, you have a serious wiring / switch issue.

[sirfunkeybut]

above test preformed and it still read 9, the ignition is just a simple rocker switch so im hoping replacing that will fix this?

[ramster]

above test preformed and it still read 9, the ignition is just a simple rocker switch so im hoping replacing that will fix this?

You have inspected the Ignition switch connector and both the coil low tension connectors (ones White the other is Yellow, wire colors are Red/White, Orange, Red/White Grey) for corrosion?

From the how to

"If the voltage drop is greater than 0.5 volts a likely cause is a loose or dirty ignition connector (located close to the radiator filler cap - Red and Brown wires), and / or the coil low-tension connectors. Clean and check the connectors if needed."

HTH

[sirfunkeybut]

i cleaned them as best as i could, i checked the power at the plug in to the coil and it was still 9v. the rocker switch gets hot enough to burn you when you touch it so im hoping this is the problem. I hate when people mess with things and then half ass fix them. the previous owner lost the key and rigged it up with the switch only to find the key after throwing the ignition away

above test preformed and it still read 9, the ignition is just a simple rocker switch so im hoping replacing that will fix this?

You have inspected the Ignition switch connector and both the coil low tension connectors (ones White the other is Yellow, wire colors are Red/White, Orange, Red/White Grey) for corrosion?

From the how to

"If the voltage drop is greater than 0.5 volts a likely cause is a loose or dirty ignition connector (located close to the radiator filler cap - Red and Brown wires), and / or the coil low-tension connectors. Clean and check the connectors if needed."

HTH

[DonTZ125]

the rocker switch gets hot enough to burn you when you touch it so im hoping this is the problem.

HOLY CRAP - you mean the entire ignition and lighting power is running through a f*ck ROCKER SWITCH?!?

Fix that before your bike burns to the ground!!

[ramster]

i cleaned them as best as i could, i checked the power at the plug in to the coil and it was still 9v. the rocker switch gets hot enough to burn you when you touch it so im hoping this is the problem. I hate when people mess with things and then half ass fix them.

I hate a 3 page thread, then they give additional info that should be in their first post

I'm STFU

[sirfunkeybut]

not new info this is the very first post to the thread.

i know im new here and asking for help isn't something exactly smiled upon but im in a big pickle here.
I have a 91 that wont get spark, i dont know much about bikes. I checked the coil packs and im getting 12v to each pack on all 4 wires. To me that doesn't seem right to get power to a black wire that i would assume is ground. I checked all fuses and all were good. When i got the bike it had a toggle switch for the starter and a rocker switch for the ignition. I didn't have any problems last year with it but when i got it out this year the battery was shot, after replacing the battery it will just crank but not start. I tried with the kick stand up and down and nothing changed. Can someone please give me an idea or two and help a newbie get me back on the road?

I thank any help given and look forward to learning from you guys

i know i should have fixed the ignition switch in the beginning but it spaced my mind dealing with the valve issue. Now that that's fixed the switch has been ordered and should be here next week. Again i ask though, could this switch be causing this voltage drop, i understand something is probably shorting out considering how hot it was today after having it on for a minute

[ramster]

not new info this is the very first post to the thread.

i know im new here and asking for help isn't something exactly smiled upon but im in a big pickle here.
I have a 91 that wont get spark, i dont know much about bikes. I checked the coil packs and im getting 12v to each pack on all 4 wires. To me that doesn't seem right to get power to a black wire that i would assume is ground. I checked all fuses and all were good. When i got the bike it had a toggle switch for the starter and a rocker switch for the ignition. I didn't have any problems last year with it but when i got it out this year the battery was shot, after replacing the battery it will just crank but not start. I tried with the kick stand up and down and nothing changed. Can someone please give me an idea or two and help a newbie get me back on the road?

I thank any help given and look forward to learning from you guys

i know i should have fixed the ignition switch in the beginning but it spaced my mind dealing with the valve issue. Now that that's fixed the switch has been ordered and should be here next week. Again i ask though, could this switch be causing this voltage drop, i understand something is probably shorting out considering how hot it was today after having it on for a minute

In short the toggle switch probably has around a 10 amp capability, so is more than likely FRIED, if so THAT will cause the the voltage drop.

You said When i got the bike it had a toggle switch for the starter and a rocker switch for the ignition

that tells me it had and does not now have a toggle switch I.E. you remedied the issue

Had is past tense, and even a moron should know to fix that, ever heard of thieves? Maybe you should of said in English

My bike has a toggle switch for the starter and a rocker switch for the ignition


Good luck

[sirfunkeybut]

sorry, i appreciate the help and i know im an idiot for not fixing it yet. dont think i was trying to be an ass or anything cause thats not the case.

[ramster]

Ok something to try before the new ignition switch arrives, (I hate waiting for parts).

Be careful here, Get a 2 foot length of 14awg wire attach a crocodile clip to both ends of the wire, for safety reasons you should also have an inline 10 amp fuse fitted to the wire (I don't bother but if you don't fit the fuse it's at your own risk!).

Attach one crocodile clip to either of the coils Red/White wire solder joints, then the other crocodile clip to the battery positive, this will or should give battery voltage to both coils and everything else needed to fire up the engine.

Hope I also didn't come across as being an ass

Good luck.

[buzzawak]

Bugger, sirfunkeybut you still having problems. Sorry to read this hasn't been resolved.