HELP.. head light troubleshooting gone wild ...please

[emt803]

Alright guys, as you know I'm new to bikes and am really enjoying getting familiar with the maintenance and trouble shooting thus far thanks to the friendly members here. I have searched through the forum and google and must admit electronics are NOT MY THING even in other aspects of daily living. Here is the problem and my observations.

Just bought the bike and unfortunetly have to store it outside, but am getting a tarp on payday. I know that this fact alone will give me many problems with the electrical components especially the starter switch ie: sticking etc.

Noticed this morning when I was letting her warm-up before my lengthy commute to see my daughter that as the bike is idling with no choke and the rpm is fluctuating while warming that the headlights will dim slightly as the rpm's dip, and brighten as they rise rhythmically.

I've had issues with the starter switch sticking upon firing up (sometimes headlights will not engage and oil light would stay on). Searched and learned to pull out on the starter switch and the issue always resolved. Today, on the ride to see my little girl, a guy on a gsxr flew past me rather disrespectfully and we had a friendly little back and forth pursuit on the interstate where he burnt me rather easily due to me refusing to take her above 90 mph (just a personal promise I made myself before buying this bike).

I did notice that at higher speeds the bike has a slight shimmy. When we pulled off the exit, he asked me what year she was and I told him a '98 and he said, "Not bad, I didn't think you'ld be able to even keep up on that thing... it'd be even better if your headlights worked", and he then proceeded to burn my ass off the light with a wheelie as I sat there fiddling with my starter switch and got no response from the lights. A few miles down the road they did come on briefly, but went out again.

Dim does not work either, but all other lights work (brake lights, dash lights, turn signals etc. Front turn signal are always on, but blink when actuated. Not sure if this matters.) I've searched and learned that the starter switch is the culprit the majority of the time, and due to toggling the switch and resolving the issue am hoping that this is the case

. I am thinking that the shimmy vibrated something loose and have played with the switch and the two wires that run from the right handle bar to no avail. I am hoping that the dimming and brightening of the lights while idling is not a bad sign and I really hope that it's not going to be a VR issue because I don't have a OHM meter. I have spare fuses, but wanted some insight before I mess things up worse and blow any other electrical components. Will someone here chat with me about it so I can fix it before the ride home please?

I NEVER use the dim lights btw so the dimmer switch is rarely used and I've heard that this can also be the issue sometimes. When I dropped the bike last week however it was on that side, but I think my foot broke most of the fall (pun intended). What would be the easiest route of trouble shooting for a newb? And how do I go about opening up the starter switch without messing with the throttle as much as possible?

[reelrazor]

start with the easiest things...are/is the actual headlight plug(s) plugged in?


On the other issue, the stuck screws? YOu pretty much need a hand impact driver at this point.

I would get some WD40 and hose down the switch gear through the slots right by the switches and see if that gets you up and running and home where you can buy an impact driver and some replacement allen screws to replace the cheesehead OEM fasteners.

[emt803]

The WD-40 did work for the screws at least... Thanx

[emt803]

Thanx Razor. I made it home, but if you will watch my back the next couple days as I post the response to your instructions I would really appreciate it, and will do as you instruct. Now, for the other newbs here, I will tell you what to do and what not to do if you have the same problem.

1. It is much easier to get the two screws that are behind the starter switch housing off if you take your clip on off.
2. The OEM clip on will come off of the top of the tree no matter how stuck it is by only loosening the two Allen bolts at the tree. There is no reason to mess with the large hex nut. Some of you know where this is going don't you.
3. If you do get a wild hair up your arse to remove said large hex nut be aware that when you finally get the bolt off the threads, it will take your face off due to the spring in the forks suspension.
4. The oil in the fork that will spew in your face along with the nut can render you temporarily blind.
4. No matter how strong you think you are, trying to put the large nut back on will have you exhausted and looking like a school girl. Have some one lift up on the handle bar to raise the suspension up as high as possible, and it makes this task much easier.
5. After you use wd-40 to loosen up the two housing screws on back of the starter box, be aware that the throttle wheel is inside as well, and is also a pain in the ass to re-assemble if it comes apart.

[emt803]

Looked inside of the starter housing, and only noticed a minute amount, of brown specs on the énds of the connections. They were all still intact. I did notice on the ride home that the left blinker blinks faster than the right. I also noticed that as the bike sits idle in neutral, that if you press the front brake lever, the green neutral light dims a little. I guess when the sun comes up tomorrow I will disect the hi-low beam box and see how those look if the connections to the headlights are good. I toggled them a little today to no avail, but will be more thorough tomorrow. I've also checked the battery and fuse box and all that was still good. Thanx for the response Razor.

[delvryboy]

Sorry, but I totally 'd at this.

[delvryboy]

Oh. A digital multi meter is a must have. You can get them for under $15 at most auto parts stores.

[CJD]

3. If you do get a wild hair up your arse to remove said large hex nut be aware that when you finally get the bolt off the threads, it will take your face off due to the spring in the forks suspension.
4. The oil in the fork that will spew in your face along with the nut can render you temporarily blind.
4. No matter how strong you think you are, trying to put the large nut back on will have you exhausted and looking like a school girl. Have some one lift up on the handle bar to raise the suspension up as high as possible, and it makes this task much easier.

Your lucky very lucky, hopefully no one was injured, you are obviously a newb (your sig) please please ask before you mess with the forks, I cant see why you removed that big nut LOL. That said your a newb, the left hand switch gear is also known to fail, causing no headlamps, I think it's a blue wire in there also.

Now you are guna tell me "I'm NOT taking the large Hex nut off the left fork" LOL, just get into the switches, not the fork legs.

Best of luck my friend

[emt803]

For some reason everyone has laughed at that story... Hell, even I can now. Its ok delvryboy. I laugh to keep from crying haha... The guy at the stealership said it'd be a 5 week wait, 2 hour ($75/hr) job...just the shock, not the lights. God knows how much that would be. I'm definetly purchasing a volt meter soon apparently.
CJD, yes I am VERY lucky on many accounts. That nut had some "stank" on it... Like, major league pitcher stank... Would of definetly left a boo boo.
I want you guys to know, I'm googling, I'm searching, I'm getting my hands dirty and trying. Trial and error is a great teacher... Now on to that rear suspension haha.

[emt803]

Alright guys, going outside to begin again, I'll report Back the results and take pics on my phone to hopefully post one day. I'm starting at the headlight connections as suggested, and looking at the left handle bar... No large hex nuts allowed haha

[emt803]

Alright, decided to look at the right switch again since the left switch has a screw that is corroded to hell and difficult to get to. Setting in WD-40 as we speak, but its raining so I'm not sure how that will work. In the right switch I broke everything down all the way and noticed that the "sticking" problem was due to the spring not pushing up the copper strip evenly. I had REALLY hoped this was the problem, but it wasn't. Cleaned everything and put it back together. It was much easier this time. Disconnected and reconnected the headlight terminals at the bulbs. Looked inside the boxes of each and no corrosion, everything connected. My boss is bringing me a voltage meter tomorrow. Now onto google to figure out what to do with the damn thing and print the wiring diagram (as if that thing made any f'ing sense when I looked at it). Decided to look at a couple things while out there. This is what I did. Maybe someone out there's had a similiar experience and can help or learn from these after I'm done.
1. I did notice one time when this problem first started that when I pulled the clutch in the lights came on. Could of just been coincidence and the start switch popped out while I was throttling etc
2. I read that the headlights possibly ran through the turn signals, and remembered the left blinking faster than the right. In some of my old cars this meant the bulb was about to go out. Swapped bulbs with the right turn signal, and it still lights at the same faster rate regardless of bulb. Never know, maybe that will ring a bell with someone.
3. Noticed that the left headlight is looser than the right. This bulbs dim light was out already when I bought the bike. If one goes out do they both go out?
In the meantime, is there something I could start studying that will help with the voltage meter?

[emt803]

Well guys, got a new "symptom"... Cleaned out the start switch box and now I'm having to toggle the start switch or the speedometer lights go out... What the hell have I done?

[yamaha_george]

Well guys, got a new "symptom"... Cleaned out the start switch box and now I'm having to toggle the start switch or the speedometer lights go out... What the hell have I done?

you either trapped a cable and it shorting or you have moisture grounding it out, I assume (never good) that when you say speedo you mean all the instrument cluster lights or do you mean ONLY the speedo lights

[emt803]

The gauge lights flicker now. I can toggle the start switch in the same manner that some of us have to do to get the headlights to come on (by making plate on top of switch complete the circuit due to its not popping all the way out) after starting. When I cleaned the box out I noticed that the copper strip that is atop the actual button was not being pushed up level by the spring. When I took it all apart, I took said copper strip and was able to make contact to crank the bike, but still nothing as far as the headlights turning on when connecting the circuit with the switch manually. I have pics on my phone and go back to work today. I can text em or figure out how to resize eventually. Bottom line, when I cleaned out the switch, noticed no disconnection, saw no heavy corrosion at the soldered points, adjusted the springs so that the button pops out very well after pressing it to start, the switch accuates the starter consistently, but when it pops back out the headlights still are not on and the gauge lights all on the gauges flicker and can be corrected by placing pressure/ jiggling the start button again. Thanx guys. I know this is frustrating to read and interpret, but imagine my frustration

[emt803]

Ok, getting a volt meter tomorrow after I get paid. I've printed the wiring diagram and have began looking at that. I'm going to check the battery while off, and check it's output while running. Then I will check the headlight terminals at the bulbs to see if they are getting enough juice (what should the reading be when testing?). If that checks out, I am going to reopen the Right handle bar switch box AGAIN and test the connections in there. When I check the two solder points above the switch that complete the headlight circuit after the bike has been started and the switch is back out, what should that reading be on the meter? And if it is reading improperly, how would I narrow down which wire is grounded to the frame or severed etc? Is there anything that I am missing here?