Hello all
Thanks for the tips made the cutting and fitting quick and easy
thanks mc freeze....
Now I can fit the yzf 600r rear 160 tire ...
I'm now on a roll hope some one reads this in the next hour or so .
Since I'm at it shoud I cut 1/2 inch off the rear and move the chain adjusters forward to match my new swingarm the length with my fzr 400 swingarm . Gus
Those chain adjusters are internal and cutting off the back of the swinger will only push them forward more. Chances are that you will not be able to pull them back as far. I doubt that the 1/2" will screw it up, but it's something to think about.
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I guess the answer depends on whether you want to retain the 400s tighter turning radius. If you prefer nimble handling in the turns to straight-line stability, cut the swingarm. This mod has previously been met with success. See http://www.fzrarchives.com/ipb/index.ph ... =18493&hl=.
FZR400 (1WG): Purchased a perfectly good FZR400 with Yoshimura slip-on/EXUP, Yosh jet kit, Factory ignition advance, Racetech springs and emulators. It even had great bodywork. Like some diseased maniac I had to mess with everything good about that bike. Well, at least I have better brakes now.
ragedigital wrote:Those chain adjusters are internal and cutting off the back of the swinger will only push them forward more. Chances are that you will not be able to pull them back as far. I doubt that the 1/2" will screw it up, but it's something to think about.
I could be mis-understanding u. U lengthen the hole where the axel sits by 1/2". And then you cut 1/2" off the back of the swinger. You regain stock wheel base and your adjuster works as it always did. Am I missing something here?
Freestyle72 wrote:U lengthen the hole where the axel sits by 1/2". And then you cut 1/2" off the back of the swinger. You regain stock wheel base and your adjuster works as it always did. Am I missing something here?
It was never mentioned that Gussy should mill the swingarm axle slots wider. I just don't want people reading this and assuming that only reducing the length of the swingarm is what is required.
RoadDogma wrote:I guess the answer depends on whether you want to retain the 400s tighter turning radius
I think the only person who would notice the difference would be Valentino or Schwantz or Stoner or...
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I think the only person who would notice the difference would be Valentino or Schwantz or Stoner or...
There's your answer, Gussy. I would take that as license.
FZR400 (1WG): Purchased a perfectly good FZR400 with Yoshimura slip-on/EXUP, Yosh jet kit, Factory ignition advance, Racetech springs and emulators. It even had great bodywork. Like some diseased maniac I had to mess with everything good about that bike. Well, at least I have better brakes now.
gussy wrote:I'll keep it simple and leave the length for now and see how it feels.
The biggest difference I felt was the width of the 160 tire compared to the stock tire on my 400/600 hybrid. It gave it a lot more grip, but it lost the "turn on a dime" feeling. It really felt awkward and out of place. But the benefit of finding decent rubber is well worth it.
It the bike for racing or just street riding?
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I haven't tried this myself, so I may be talking out my tuchus here. I've read several people commenting that increasing tire size slows the steering - makes sense so far. What about adjusting the bike to quicken the steering, returning it to where it was? Raising the rear and/or raising the forks in the triples is the easiest way to do that, in small increments.
DonTZ125 wrote:Raising the rear and/or raising the forks in the triples is the easiest way to do that, in small increments.
I see how raising the rear would do it - that would move the rear tire forward since it's dropping the rear of the swingarm. Not sure about the forks - that sounds like the front would drop and push the rear tire back. I'm sure there are other factors at work though.
Once again, I think the only people who would notice a real difference are those that are pushing the bikes really hard on a consistent basis.
The only thing I notice is tire pressure. You can tell if the bike is sluggish in the corners or bouncing around.
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What dropping the forks and raising the rear does is change the angle of the head tube. The closer to vertical that tube is, the faster the bike turns in. For an extreme comparison, a raked out chopper leans in much much slower than any sportbike. It's less about wheelbase (any change is pretty negligible) and more about the rake and trail numbers.
1994 FZR600: Hardly anything left stock
02 R6 Front End
Ducati M900 Seat/Taillight
Honda VFR750 Swingarm/Wheel
No Spacer 660
YZF600 Tank
Renthal Dirt Bars
Too much else...