Starting up after 2 years !!!!!!! HELP !!!!!!!!!

[fizzer6hundred]

I agree, I am waiting for my Manometer to do the synchronizing. I did run the bike tonight and measured the header temps this is what I got with the as is meaning not optimized/synchronized:
Cylinder Temp. F
1 375
2 365
3 410
4 522

Is this delta in temp due mainly to poor synchronization?

[thatkid]

All 4 temps are good news (hot) So yes the variations are probably down to synchronization & mixture screw adjustments.

Get the engine to normal operating temperature (Temp gauge reading around half way) synch the carbs, then play with the mixture screws. You probably wont get equal readings on all 4 headers tho. I took the average temp readings and aimed for that.

Having said that I've only ever used the IR temp gun once, #2 was colder than the rest (140ish) could I hell get it to warm up. Me being a lazy ass, boxed it up and rode (good weather). Turned out to be faulty HT lead, eventually that cylinder was doing nothing. Now #2 is hotter than the others, time for a re-synch and mixture screw adjustment.

Yours appears to have 4 functioning cylinders, Take the temp reading @ the same position on each header, it does make a big difference in the readings.

Good Luck
Mal.

[fizzer6hundred]

Thanks Mal for the encouraging words (always helpful). I will re-synch when I can get a synchronizer. Looking on ebay but dont want to wait. Not sure my local shops have these will have to call around.

BTW I used the laser and pointed about 3 inches away from the flange for each measurement. I can very precise on the aim of the laser thermal gun (just got it from harbor freight $40).

[thatkid]

There's a do it yourself synch tool in the WIKI here's the link viewtopic.php?f=21&t=6089 first photo

[fizzer6hundred]

I have a nice picture of my ho made manometer if I can just find out how to post on the WIKI

[thatkid]

Post in your gallery first lets have a look, read this GALLERY INFO: POSTING PHOTOS, ETC...

Mal

BTW the WIKI editing has me all over the place

[fizzer6hundred]

Got this idea from another post and improved I think by finding molding that had 4 grooves to lay 5/16 vinyl tubing into. Got The 6mm welding tips and will use it tomorrow. I put 2 cycle oil in because its so dark and has good contrast. Cost = $9 took one hour.

Crap cant get that article out of my mind about Brittany's Road Rash incident....never read it before and sure makes me think........

[fizzer6hundred]

Ok so the Manometer works well. It gave me enough time to realize #2 is pulling way more vacuum than the rest of the cylinders. So I had to shut it down lest oil gets sucked up into the carb.

I did NOT warm it up prior to hooking the manometer up since I did not want to deal with hooking it up to an already HOT bike.

Question was this wrong? Would there be a high uneven vacuum on a cold motor?

I have not tried warming it up first as I am out of time tonight. I will try warming her up then hook up the manometer to see if I can answer this question.

If this problem persists how do I lower the vacuum on #2? There are only adjustments to the sets??

and DAM the adjustment screws are ridiculously difficult to get to on a cold motor!!! I am not looking forward to adjusting on a hot engine I will burn myself for sure. I cant barely even see the stupid things. What a crappy place to put a service screw!!!

[apsolus]

i dont think there would be a diff in how it tests out warm or cold, but i have heard to do it when warm so you might as well. and if your worried about burning yourself why dont you let the bike cool make some adjustments then warm it up and test again? is that feisable? ive never done a vacuum test before, thats my last frontier to cross. i just learnd how to do fork seals so im basically self sufficient on bikes now.

[fizzer6hundred]

This is a synchronization not vacuum test. It does have to be warm and "real time" to get it right. I am just trying to figure out how to lower the vacuum on #2 since its pulling way more than the rest. This maybe an artifact of a cold motor not sure.

[apsolus]

you gotta adjust the throttle plate on that carb, each carb hasits own screw, but if you mess with one of em the others might move slightly as well.

[sweekster]

I did NOT warm it up prior to hooking the manometer up since I did not want to deal with hooking it up to an already HOT bike.

Question was this wrong?

From my experience, it's better to have the bike at or close to normal operating temps. Depending on temps in the garage and outside you may want a fan blowing at the motor to help keep it from over heating. The synching process isn't quick and can be down right frustrating. Took me 2 full days and 3 tanks of gas to get my bike synched. But it's runs great now and it sat OUTSIDE for almost 4 years prior to me getting it. So I'm suggesting you try it again with the bike warm as it may yield better results.

[fizzer6hundred]

Right on will get her up to temp and try it again....

[thatkid]

OK OK OK, you let her sit idle for 2 years? shame on you, I wana beat you with a big stick, she is beautiful


Hook the manometer up, then let the engine warm up. All carb adjustments should be done when the engine is warm.

The adjustment screws are a bitch (the position they are in) It goes synch #1 & #2, synch #3 & #4, then synch #1 & #2 to #3 & #4

The adjustment screws circled in green (first photo). Then balance #1 #2 to #3 #4 That adjustment screw is somewhere in the centre circled in green (second photo)



As to the the oil getting sucked into the carb? the tubes connect to the inlet manifolds circled in red (photo) not the carbs



Anyways nice design on the manometer, Far better than the 2 bottles and the time wasted, I use this baby tho, http://www.carbtune.com/

Again she is beautiful.
Mal.

[fizzer6hundred]

Thanks Mal (12,500 original miles) yes I tried to get a Carbtune but their website crapped out on me and I was frustrated and wanted it right away. Darn near took me as long to build as to try the online shopping several times George is going to post the directions I wrote on how to build it.

The problem I am having Carbtune probably would not have. As I started up the bike #2 pulled harder than the rest pulling the oil up and past the ballance area on the manometer and headed for the vacuum port. It was DISPROPORTIONAL on that cylinder. I get how to run through the synchronization sequence but how do I affect vacuum on just one cylinder by itself if its so out of whack? Is there even a way to do this? I started to try and make some quick adjustments but that cylinder just sucks that oil so fast its hard to do anything before I have to shut her down.