I am out of ideas. Please help

[ragedigital]

Don't drill it - not necessary.

[Shocka311]

Don't drill it - not necessary.

Why does it say to drill it? (its a 37 wire gauge drill bit by the way. PAIN IN THE ASS to find locally)

[Shocka311]

AH HA! Maybe this is the problem. I can't catch a f*ck break.

[ragedigital]

Why does it say to drill it? (its a 37 wire gauge drill bit by the way. PAIN IN THE ASS to find locally)

It is supposed to react quicker or something to throttle changes. Most people do not drill them.

Nice hole in the carb....

[Shocka311]

So I epoxy'd the hole and put the jet kit in and its still running like total shit. I have a few new questions. First, could overcooling cause all of this and what would cause my bike to never heat up. It never warms up and i wonder if this is contributing to the problems. Second, my bike is a cali emissions bike and I stripped all of the emissions controlls and plugged all the holes. There was a hole out of each exhaust which I plugged, and the tubes on the 3rd and 4th carb and I took off all the tubes and hoses on the front of the exhaust. Could either of these cause my bike to run like shit?

[thatkid]

Over cooling should not be the issue, but wont help. looks like you have either a faulty (open) thermostat or it's been removed. Thermostats control the coolant flow (an open or closed valve), they are filled with wax, closed when cold (no coolant flow) when warm/hot the wax expands opening the thermostat allowing the flow of coolant. It could have been removed to prevent overheating in a hot climate I.E. Cali, don't want to scare you but maybe there was a problem with the cooling system and the thermostat has been removed (the previous owner by all accounts seems to be a POS I've read your other post's) best left alone until you solve the current issue. Unless the engine temp has something to do with the Cali emission control system (I have no idea on that). Have you tried riding the bike with the choke on? since its running cold

Just had a quick read up on the Cali emission control, looks like it feeds fresh air (oxygen) into the exhaust ports to help burn any un-burnt fuel/gas in the exhaust. Reed valve assembly E.T.C looks like there is/was a vacuum hose from the reed valve to one of the intake boots (where you connect the carb sync tool??) Have you plugged that?

When you opened the carbs, underneath the diaphragm cover, were the 4 little o-rings present/good condition? (1 per carb) first time i opened mine i misplaced one didn't know they where there. circled in red below.



Trying to think of anything you could have missed/haven't done, no amount of fiddling with the carbs will help if all cylinders aren't running 100% plugs coils/HT leads check them out if you haven't already, You did check adjust the valve clearances after the rebuild?

[Shocka311]

I know I'm missing one of those little o rings but I can't imagine its causing it to run this poorly. I have plugged the ports on the carbs and the one on the intake boot from the emissions stuff. Adjusted all my valve clearances. The choke makes no differance or may make it run worse; it's hard to tell cause it's running so bad anyway, certainly doesn't make it better. I think that my thermostat must have failed open cause it used to heat up but doesn't anymore. I thought thats what it must be nut the worthless service manual lists all these other things that cause over cooling. Anyway, I don't think thats the problem. I've checked the plugs and they look fine and I know I'm getting spark. I recently replaced the coils and ignition wires. Is there any way to check and see if I'm getting a strong enough spark. I'm rackin my brain trying to figure out what's causing it cause everything seem fine. I really think its a problem with my carbs but I would have thought it'd get a little better when I jetted them and fixed the hole. Thanks for all the help btw, I'm fresh out of ideas.

[thatkid]

That o-ring seals the jet supplying the vacuum to the diaphragm, without it you may as well have a hole in the diaphragm. a quick test lift the throttle pistons (duno what you call them over there) fully open 1 at a time, you should hear a hiss as the piston slowly closes, if 1 closes fast and makes a clunk there's a problem. Second open 2 together they should close at the same speed/rate.

To test for a strong spark, it should be able to jump a 1/4 inch (6mm) gap and be of a nice blue colour, orange colour is a sign of a weak spark, i use a phillips/cross head screw driver inserted into the spark plug cap, hold the screwdriver shaft 1/4 inch away from the cylinder head and start the engine. Be careful not to touch any metal part of the screw driver, there'll be around 10-12 K volts (duno the actual voltage) and you'll get 1 hell of a belt/shock, repeat on all 4 plug caps, also look inside the caps using a torch for any corrosion usually a blue/green colour, should be nice and clean.

You should consider replacing the spark plugs their cheap, they may look ok but an old/worn plug will break down under load causing misfires hesitations e.t.c.

[Shocka311]

I checked all the slides and they all seemed fine. When I checked the ignition wires 1 and 4 seemed weaker than 2 and 3. I just replaced the wires and the ignition coils. I was still getting a nice blue spark but I had to keep it about 1/8 in. away as opposed to 1/4 as on 2 and 3.

[thatkid]

That could be your problem, while a weak spark will run the engine fine in neutral (no load on the engine) it won't fully combust the fuel/air in the cylinder, resulting in poor performance under load (riding accelerating) un burnt fuel due to ignition problems will appear the engine is running rich, when it is not. time to get a ohm meter and check the coil primary and secondary windings. I'm guessing the replacement coils weren't new, but used. Also check the voltage to both coils on the positive terminals red/white wires.

Ignition problems can sometimes appear to be carburation problems, to diagnose fully you need to eliminate everything else. I've learnt by experience, and was taught that fact. A pain in the arse i know but necessary.

When you get the replacement carb be sure to take the o-ring from the damaged carb and fit it to the 1 that has no o-ring it will be leaking air. I should have mentioned the quick test on the sliders isn't a 100% accurate, but mainly to test for large holes/tears and correct fitting of the diaphragm not pin holes.

[Shocka311]

Ya the coils were used. So where do I check the primary and secondary windings and what should the resistance be? I'm guessing the voltage to the coils should be 12 V.

[thatkid]

I've never checked the coils on a FZR (so if im wrong here someone please chime in) disconnect both connectors yellow and white that feed the coils.

The primary windings test point should be checked imho at the solder connections (top of the coils) connect the ohm meter to the red/white wire and the orange wire (coil for plugs #1 & #4) take the reading, then the red/white wire and the grey wire (coil #2 & #3) reading should be 1.8 to 2.2 ohms. also check those connectors for any sign of corrosion.

The secondary windings are tested between the ignition wires/plug caps, connect the ohm meter between #1 & #4, then #2 & #3 reading should be 9,600 to 14,400 ohms

Both readings should be checked when the coils are cold I.E. 68 degrees F

As for the voltage to the coils 12v sounds correct, but i don't know if there's a ballast resistor fitted on these bikes.

[Shocka311]

Thanks, I'll give it a shot and let you know.

[Shocka311]

K so the resistances on the primary were both between 2.3 and 2.6. There was no resistance between the plug wires of 1 and 4 but they showed 12 DC volts. There was 22 k ohms between 2 and 3 but no voltage. When I tested toe voltage coming to the coils 1 and 4 showed 12 V and 2 and 3 just kept jumping around, I couldn't get a reading. So what does all this mean?

[thatkid]

The voltage should be measured at the red/white wire on the coils and a suitable earth/ground (battery negative) 12v between #1 & #4 plug caps indicates a short between the primary and secondary windings (i didnt even think of testing that) looks like that coil is knackered/dead.

Unplug both connectors at the TCI and recheck the coil voltages.

Edit

you did disconnect both the yellow and white connectors feeding the coils before you checked the windings? if so i cant understand how you got a 12v DC reading on #1 & #4 plug caps.