So I was reading in the WIKI and forum about oil changes.

[kilika2]

Really I was looking for a chart I saw once that had the different oil weights that were optimal in different temp ranges.. Anyway, my yamaha/suzuki dealer said to only use semi-synthetic 10w40, so I was looking and I came across this in the forum.

You don't need synthetic on these older bikes... the only difference between synthetic is it's ability to withstand shear better, and last longer between changes, which makes no difference if you change your oil on a regular basis. Synthetic will also get past old seals that weren't designed for synthetic oil in the first place. thus leading to possible leaks and excessive oil burning. IMO, it is marketing: you don't own a formula one race car, running synthetic in the bike is a waste of money, and will lead to more problems than it's worth. Switch back to dyno, get a good quality 10w40 (like Castrol GTX), and more than likely your oil burning will mostly go away, especially with that low miles on the bike.

I was using MOBIL 1. Anyway, also in the wiki the write up said this....

Remember, 10w-40 oils contain a lot of VIIs which tend to shear in your transmission, so I believe 10w-40 oils should be avoided. You can't use 10w-30 because of the friction modifiers. This doesn't leave much. Commercial 15w-40 oils are a good choice, because they have relatively few VIIs

My original reason for looking this up is cause I want to winterize the bike but will still probably be able to ride a few days this winter, So I wanted something thicker I believe to coat better for in between the start ups. I'm going to get a purolator 3.5 in filter cause that seemed to have the best reports on the wiki.

Chris.

[_Will_]

I've run repsol semi syth, rotella full synth, castrol high mileage, and rotalle conventional 30 weight. Best I've found for price and effectiveness (no burning, no additonal leaks, etc) is the conventional 30w, I also live in Florida though. I had an oil burning problem that nearly disappeared after I started using the 30w. The one time I tried the castrol my bike almost immediatly developed a bad valve cover leak which has been stopped by the 30w. The price is right too and I can pick it up along with my filter from the autozone down the road. You'll hear a lot of different opinions from this expert and that. I just use what I've tested. My bike also has roughly 40k miles on it now, I saw roughly since the odometer went at 26k but I know about how much I ride yearly

[kilika2]

Good deal, part of that thread that I posted was from where someone was talking about how they were putting out fresh oil from the can, and they had moved to semi. I think it was 95fzr600 that said something to the effect of, They didn't have semi or full when these bikes came out, why use it? Good question to me I suppose.

Chris.

[_Will_]

honestly when I switched to the 30w I could tell a small difference in the acceleration but not enough to switch back compared to the added benefit of less oil burning. Plus my transmission is so smooth with the 30w

[kilika2]

hmmm all good points I will probably just use regular oil for the winter .

[haro504]

what specific oil do you get from autozone the last time i got oil was from a mc dealer and it was about 7 dollars a quart i know you need a specific oil for the wet clutch but i cant remember what kind just price shopping i guess i hate spending 40 bucks for and oil change when my car costs 15

[_Will_]

what specific oil do you get from autozone the last time i got oil was from a mc dealer and it was about 7 dollars a quart i know you need a specific oil for the wet clutch but i cant remember what kind just price shopping i guess i hate spending 40 bucks for and oil change when my car costs 15

you can use SOME car oil in a motorcycle, the reason you're told not to is most of it has additives that'll make a wet clutch slip. The Rotella 30w does not make it slip, it also comes in the big white jugs for 15-20 dollars so it won't be in the quarts section. When you look on the back of a bottle/jug you'll see a circular marking and if in that it is labeled with something along the lines of "energy conserving molecules" then don't use it. I was an expert at knowing where I could get that type of oil around town for when mine would burn off enough to set the light off. Not so much of a problem with the 30w

[91fzr600r]

i tryed valvolene full synthetic and it made my valve cover seal leak so bad i had to change it. and my cluches started sliping so i changed them also. i've been using 10w30 conventional oil , after reading _will_'s experience i will try the rotalle conventional 30w my next oil change

[yamaha_george]

Good deal, part of that thread that I posted was from where someone was talking about how they were putting out fresh oil from the can, and they had moved to semi. I think it was 95fzr600 that said something to the effect of, They didn't have semi or full when these bikes came out, why use it? Good question to me I suppose.

Chris.

Its the truth. I believe synthetic is good stuff after seeing the Royal Purple load test on bearings. Firm believer on full synthetic oils.

If you are going full synth (with its superior oil shear strength) then make sure it is for Motor bikes with wet clutches.
Some brands for cars have all the wrong sort of additive for our beloved wet clutch bikes.

If you are not sure about any particular brand do not ask the salesman! go to the oil company web site & do some research

[_Will_]

Good deal, part of that thread that I posted was from where someone was talking about how they were putting out fresh oil from the can, and they had moved to semi. I think it was 95fzr600 that said something to the effect of, They didn't have semi or full when these bikes came out, why use it? Good question to me I suppose.

Chris.

Its the truth. I believe synthetic is good stuff after seeing the Royal Purple load test on bearings. Firm believer on full synthetic oils.

If you are going full synth (with its superior oil shear strength) then make sure it is for Motor bikes with wet clutches.
Some brands for cars have all the wrong sort of additive for our beloved wet clutch bikes.

If you are not sure about any particular brand do not ask the salesman! go to the oil company web site & do some research

I just wanted to bold that out for you Geo, I've seen salesmen just blow smoke up someones ass which a total lack of knowledge.

I will say this about full synthetic, I ran it in my 02 Camaro from the first oil change and never heard a peep from the motor for the 100k + I had it plus I routinely got 3-6 mpg more than it was rated for. The synth is good oil, it's just not needed in our bikes and leads to problems like the afore mentioned leaks and oil burning.

[yamaha_george]

Will,
Thanks for that :}, I used bel-ray back in the early 80's after one of the Uni scientists showed me the difference. He gave me the same warning I have just put out. I used the Bel-Ray oil meant for wet clutches in my RD's and we used the 4 stroke wet clutch in the Bigger bikes (FZ XS's etc of the day). mind you these were NEW bike then with bugger all wear so as they say your mileage may vary.......................

[_Will_]

I just picked up some belray chain lube from kneedraggers and dang does it coat and stick but it's all white and just looks strange on my chain. You can see it stay on which I like at least

[yamaha_george]

I just picked up some belray chain lube from kneedraggers and dang does it coat and stick but it's all white and just looks strange on my chain. You can see it stay on which I like at least

Will,
For the benefit of the readers (may be not you ) I will remind you all that chain lube is NOT something you put on BEFORE a ride but AFTER a ride when the chain has been worked and hot and AFTER it has been wiped "clean" of road crap .

You spray on the rollers between the chain runs NOT on the top outside of the chain as I have seen many do.

The hassle with the FZR is you need a strong buddy tilting the bike on its side stand so the rear wheel is clear of the ground or a paddock stand so you can rotate the chain whilst lubing.

[_Will_]

Yeah, I didn't own my bike for long before investing in a rear stand. The roll and spray is not easily done and I'm a big fellow

[kilika2]

I just picked up some belray chain lube from kneedraggers and dang does it coat and stick but it's all white and just looks strange on my chain. You can see it stay on which I like at least

Will,
For the benefit of the readers (may be not you ) I will remind you all that chain lube is NOT something you put on BEFORE a ride but AFTER a ride when the chain has been worked and hot and AFTER it has been wiped "clean" of road crap .

You spray on the rollers between the chain runs NOT on the top outside of the chain as I have seen many do.

The hassle with the FZR is you need a strong buddy tilting the bike on its side stand so the rear wheel is clear of the ground or a paddock stand so you can rotate the chain whilst lubing.

Hmm another case of smoke up my butt, suzuki dealer said always before a ride so it gets in the oil seals. I haven't been back there since finding this site anyway.

Chris.