bike won't start

[Cursed94FZR600]

what tool, type of flywheel puller do i need to switch out the stator? if someone knows what exact tool i need that would be awesome.

Thanks for all the help so far guys
David M

p.s. please keep it comin.

[reelrazor]

what tool, type of flywheel puller do i need to switch out the stator? if someone knows what exact tool i need that would be awesome.

Thanks for all the help so far guys
David M

p.s. please keep it comin.

Stator is IN the stator cover-external to the flywheel. All you need is some allen wrenches and a good phillips head.

have you tested the stator? Stator only supplies charging voltage to the VR, anbd therefore WILL NOT be the cause of your no-start condition....the ignition pickup coil is wired in with the stator and could possibly be your problem..but it is very unlikely-it's about the most robust device involved in your ignition.

[tampaFZR600]

....the ignition pickup coil is wired in with the stator and could possibly be your problem..but it is very unlikely-it's about the most robust device involved in your ignition.

hmmm, i'm gonna have to disagree with that man... I had a bad pickup and it was the only cause of my "no-start" problem.... I was getting spark and fuel just like him, and my vr was fine.

The stator and pickup are together, the pickup wire is a single wire, it is in the same "shrink wrap" as the 4 stator wires....its 3 or 4 i can't remember. You might have trouble finding someone selling the pickup by itself, so you may have to buy the whole stator setup.

Replacing the stator is easy, just take off the cover and use a beefy flat head to loosen the 3 screws. I had to bend back the metal bracket that held in the wires inside the stator cover b/c the screw that held mine in was stripped, may be different in your case.

Let me know if you need any other help, i've been through this stator issue up and down.

[Cursed94FZR600]

When I'm testing the stator,generator thingy, what measurements should I be getting from what plugs?

Like what resistance from the 2 socket thing?
and the idk from the 3 socket thing?

[tampaFZR600]

When I'm testing the stator,generator thingy, what measurements should I be getting from what plugs?

Like what resistance from the 2 socket thing?
and the idk from the 3 socket thing?

It's all in here man... http://commline.com/FZR/600/MANUAL/

but really, i had trouble getting my shit to even test...

[reelrazor]

hmmm, i'm gonna have to disagree with that man... I had a bad pickup and it was the only cause of my "no-start" problem.... I was getting spark and fuel just like him, and my vr was fine.

The stator and pickup are together, the pickup wire is a single wire, it is in the same "shrink wrap" as the 4 stator wires....its 3 or 4 i can't remember. You might have trouble finding someone selling the pickup by itself, so you may have to buy the whole stator setup.

Replacing the stator is easy, just take off the cover and use a beefy flat head to loosen the 3 screws. I had to bend back the metal bracket that held in the wires inside the stator cover b/c the screw that held mine in was stripped, may be different in your case.

Let me know if you need any other help, i've been through this stator issue up and down.

Disagree all you want. 28 years wrenching and I have never replaced a pickup coil (on anything- road bike/dirtbike/snowmobile/atv) for any reason other than physical damage to the pickup(read- crash, or foreign object damage), and a small percentage that have had frayed/pinched wires which allows continuity to ground *. Your actual pickup coil may have been bad, it's possible, and it happens, so I hear.

VR has nothing to do with ignition, neither does the stator. There have been lots of FZRs converted to total loss-which means you take the stator and the VR OFF and throw them away. You can see EVERY component involved in making spark at the right time on page 210 of the Clymer manual(figure10-labeled "Ignition system"). Everything in the grey area of the diagram is meaningless as far as the engine running is concerned.

The pickup is TWO wire, a white with red traces, and a white with black traces. They can be seen here:



They lead out the same conduit as the stator wire bundles and connect at a TWO WIRE connector (white/red, and white/black) Disconnect that connector and put an ohmeter's leads on each terminal. This is the recommended procedure for testing. You should see 80-120ohms. You can even do a pickup coil function test by keeping the test leads on the terminals and rotating the flywheel quickly. The resistance reading will 'spike' as the timing bumps go past it .

* Also-and this is just years of experience talking-put on test lead on one terminal and one on the engine case (ground)..you should NOT see continuity. Switch the lead to the other terminal....you should NOT see continuity. If you have continuity, a wire is pinched/frayed and is contacting ground (this is THE most likely failure of a pickup coil and requires an inch of electrical tape to fix).

Ignitech, and electrosport sells pickup coils by themselves.

[tampaFZR600]

shit ya, it is a two wire pickup..... Well this could have explained my problem then, because when i got my bike the stator cover was completely BASHED in, and like you said, it wouldn't be messed up unless it had been wrecked/crashed. More than likely mine was. I'll shut up now...LISTEN TO REELRAZOR! lolol

[yamaha_george]

Disagree all you want. 28 years wrenching and I have never replaced a pickup coil (on anything- road bike/dirtbike/snowmobile/atv) for any reason other than physical damage to the pickup(read- crash, or foreign object damage), and a small percentage that have had frayed/pinched wires which allows continuity to ground *. Your actual pickup coil may have been bad, it's possible, and it happens, so I hear.

VR has nothing to do with ignition, neither does the stator. There have been lots of FZRs converted to total loss-which means you take the stator and the VR OFF and throw them away. You can see EVERY component involved in making spark at the right time on page 210 of the Clymer manual(figure10-labeled "Ignition system"). Everything in the grey area of the diagram is meaningless as far as the engine running is concerned.

The pickup is TWO wire, a white with red traces, and a white with black traces. They can be seen here:



They lead out the same conduit as the stator wire bundles and connect at a TWO WIRE connector (white/red, and white/black) Disconnect that connector and put an ohmeter's leads on each terminal. This is the recommended procedure for testing. You should see 80-120ohms. You can even do a pickup coil function test by keeping the test leads on the terminals and rotating the flywheel quickly. The resistance reading will 'spike' as the timing bumps go past it .

* Also-and this is just years of experience talking-put on test lead on one terminal and one on the engine case (ground)..you should NOT see continuity. Switch the lead to the other terminal....you should NOT see continuity. If you have continuity, a wire is pinched/frayed and is contacting ground (this is THE most likely failure of a pickup coil and requires an inch of electrical tape to fix).

Ignitech, and electrosport sells pickup coils by themselves.

RR,
I will back you on that, every stator plate I ever had to repair was physical damage by impact /chafing/ vibration.

Other than that MX / trailies in the late 70's early '80 I had problems with water intake to the coil housing.
Guys would ride thro cold water causing the air inside the coil cover to chill thus sucking in water. the owners thought that using aquerium silicon glue would halt the problem but that made it worse. I drilled the covers (there was an OEM blank bit on the casting for this which for some reason was never implemented) that I added a case breather coupling to and ran a hose up under the tank.
No more wet electrics no more fried coils.

[reelrazor]

RR,
I will back you on that, every stator plate I ever had to repair was physical damage by impact /chafing/ vibration.

Other than that MX / trailies in the late 70's early '80 I had problems with water intake to the coil housing.
Guys would ride thro cold water causing the air inside the coil cover to chill thus sucking in water. the owners thought that using aquerium silicon glue would halt the problem but that made it worse. I drilled the covers (there was an OEM blank bit on the casting for this which for some reason was never implemented) that I added a case breather coupling to and ran a hose up under the tank.
No more wet electrics no more fried coils.

Right. 'Wet" isn't a problem....'wet and time, heat, and vibration' IS. I have replaced many Polaris ATV stators/pickups for the very reason you mention. They have a drain plug right under the housing, and early (first couple pages) in the owner's manual it tells you to open that drain soon after submersion(they even made the drain the same size as the spark plug hex so you can do it with the onboard toolkit). It's at the point where I pull the rewind/stator cover first on Polaris' with a no spark condition. They are usually filled with rusty water and sometimes algae, and the insulation on the windings is rotted off. The pickup coils...being epoxied/molded solid state units usually even survive this unless teh rewind unit comes apart and physically bashes them.

Yamaha and Honda ATVs use a duckbill valve to automatically drain-or make the cavity entirely water/airtight (and oddly-Polaris uses a duckbill on their airboxes, but a drain bolt on this physically lower cavity).

But, I'll say it again..if the Pickup shows continuity to ground(the manuals almost NEVER tell you this test), it is an easy matter of finding the chafe (usually under the wire hold-down bracket) and taping it up. This is ALSO true of many stator 'failures' .

[yamaha_george]

Err have I changed my name, damn old age creeping in I do not remember doing that but I do remember writing the content LoL

[Cursed94FZR600]

Ok, so i just went out and tested the resistance between the white/red and white/black wires for the stator/generator 2 plug part =>99.1Ohms

I also tested each of those wires for some connection to the engine/ for a short or something. And the resistance was 1 for every scale i checked. so i don't think i have a short there.

[reelrazor]

Ok, so i just went out and tested the resistance between the white/red and white/black wires for the stator/generator 2 plug part =>99.1Ohms

I also tested each of those wires for some connection to the engine/ for a short or something. And the resistance was 1 for every scale i checked. so i don't think i have a short there.

Your pickup coil is definitively good.

Move on to the next thing in the list.

Does it run at all at this point? Have spark?

[Cursed94FZR600]

it does everything but catch. it doesn't have a spark, the coils are good. checked them twice. the pickup is good, according to the resistance.

the fuses are good.

what is next besides replacing the digital ignitor?

[Cursed94FZR600]

does anyone have a circuit diagram of the TCI?

if so please post it or email it to me.

belovedsniper67@yahoo.com

[reelrazor]

does anyone have a circuit diagram of the TCI?

if so please post it or email it to me.

belovedsniper67@yahoo.com

No diagram, but there is this from the Wiki :

http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=tci-repair

and from the Yamaha Vision Pages:

http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/IgnitionFAQ.html#a7p0

scroll down, lots of TCI info.

and this TCI page as well:

http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/TCIRebuil ... build.html

If you are lucky enough to still have a Radio Shack witha s ervice department, or a TV repair facility near you, you can likely get them to replace the bad transistor(which will most likely be THE fault)