New Mint Bike...1 owner 15k... what should I do...

[Lukather]

Proud owner of standard, FSH, 1 previous ...semi famous owner....!

I want to keep the bike 100% original with a few retro fit parts.....



I have a few questions...


Exhaust

Looking for a nice 'off road' type can ...all Chrome...

I like the Viper....any suggestions ...easy fit and removal ...with not alterations..


Brakes

...after 21 years... .should the brake pipes be changed front and rear? ware and tare ? obviously fluids have been done...

and if so what should I use.(does anyone have any recommendations) what type ( banjo's/fitments )
I'm thinking HAL - Red

What about clutch pipe - should this be changed

Discs

Should I change the discs to Waveys

Wavey or not too Wavy -- What are the benefits....

What would you recommend and where from ?

Calipers

Blue Spot or Not...?

Are they really a significant upgrade from the Calipers on the bike...dont want to change anything cosmetically...?

Pads

Change pads....Brembo -EBC....?


All your input and help is much appriciated....

[csofos]

For the exhaust, i don't know any companies. I sometimes heard for Yoshis very good words.

As for the brakes hoses, every time i get an old bike, i change the old front brake hoses with new metallic ones. I would do this for the clutch too, if money were not an issue.

Front disk brakes were not my priority, because of lack of money. Benefits, from what i know is that they get cold faster.

Callipers YES. Try from R6 or R1. Much better braking and better feeling. But if you do this swap, do it by swapping the master cylinder too.

Brake pads i'm very happy with EBC. But, it was not one of my priorities

[sweekster]

Exhaust

Not sure what else is available on your side of the pond. Viper does make a good slip on for it. From what I recall Lazer does as well.

Brakes

HAL - is a good choice so go with that front and rear.

I suggest also updating the master cylinder to a radial type. 2007 R6 or 2004+ R1 will be the cheapest and they are brembo OEM (you can use the reservior bottle you already have as well.) I suggest this because you be able to haul the 500lb beast you have to a stop from 100mph with pretty much 1 finger.

Clutch pipe can just be replaced with another OEM.

Discs

The wave rotors look nice and they save weight. EBC and Galfer are on the cheaper side...Unless you want to spend Brembo money

You could also source a set of brembo OEM rotors from, for example, a 99 Ducati Monster M900 or the Ducati "snowflake 320mm" rotors. Not wavy but same fitment and 2lbs lighter than (that's the total weight of both rotors) the FZR rotors

Calipers

Blue Spot, Gold Spot, Silver Spot (R6/R1, FZ1/Fazer 1000)- Direct bolt on. Monoblock one piece construction. Lighter and stronger than the calipers they replaced. The best ones to get are the Gold Spots. The pistons are teflon coated to help prevent binding in hard braking (this really would only be noticeable in a racing situation). If you are just riding and want better stopping then the blue spots will do just fine (they are also more readily available).

Pads

Brembo -EBC-Galfer

[Lukather]

Ok, I think the brakes are first...( I hope these are not totally noob daft questions.)

So I find some R1 Gold Spot front brakes off a 2003 R1 5PW (none radial) with master Cylinder and new lines ....

these just bolt on to my existing discs...no problem?.bolt on bleed and I'm away ?

And I'll see a massive difference?

Can i keep the same lever handle or do i have to change both... (Chrome)
What about the larger master cylinder...does this obscure the temp or rev guages?

Should I do the rear at the same time or is it not worth it ?

Many thanks... I love this site....

[sweekster]

So I find some R1 Gold Spot front brakes off a 2003 R1 5PW (none radial) with master Cylinder and new lines ....

these just bolt on to my existing discs...no problem?.bolt on bleed and I'm away ?

And I'll see a massive difference?

Can i keep the same lever handle or do i have to change both... (Chrome)
What about the larger master cylinder...does this obscure the temp or rev guages?

Should I do the rear at the same time or is it not worth it ?

Many thanks... I love this site....

The lines may be too short...Believe it or not the R1 has a shorter front end and has been deemed to short to use on the FZR1000, hence me saying the lines will be short. HAL makes a set for a good price. You should be able to use your FZR lever (can't remember for sure at the moment). The reservoir bottle only slightly blocks the temp gauge on my 1k but you'll probably need to be a bit creative with the mounting like this:

This is done on an FZR600 but you can do the same and it doesn't block the gauges.


The calipers are a complete bolt on deal so no worries there. And you might as well change the rear line to something new while you're at it. All in all you will be happy with the result. More braking action and less for effort

[Lukather]

hi thanks for the info. Much appreciated. Can I just run with the original master or does that defeat the object.

I can get a set of front and rear gold spot. Should I gofor them or will front sufice ?

What exactly is the difference. ( I know you briefly explained , but are any significantly better ? )

Should I order any particular type of HAL ! Standard banjos ?

Thanks

[sweekster]

Can I just run with the original master or does that defeat the object.

I can get a set of front and rear gold spot. Should I gofor them or will front sufice ?

What exactly is the difference. ( I know you briefly explained , but are any significantly better ? )

Should I order any particular type of HAL ! Standard banjos ?

Thanks

You can run the original master but you'll get the stock effect and the caliper swap is more just for looks. Don't get me wrong as it still updates the bike and fresh fluid, lines, and pads will be an improvement. The newer master cylinder is a slightly bigger bore so its' moving more fluid..just enough to increase the clamping forces of the calipers-that's the improvement you want. This, in turn, makes it easier to stop. The only difference that I've found is the Gold Spots have the teflon coating. Otherwise they are all (Gold, Blue, Silver) the same. The R1/R6 calipers for the rear won't fit so just a new line should suffice.

And Here(<-click there) is where you can order them and they come with the correct banjos.

[cecorri]

Can I just run with the original master or does that defeat the object.

I can get a set of front and rear gold spot. Should I gofor them or will front sufice ?

What exactly is the difference. ( I know you briefly explained , but are any significantly better ? )

Should I order any particular type of HAL ! Standard banjos ?

Thanks

You can run the original master but you'll get the stock effect and the caliper swap is more just for looks. Don't get me wrong as it still updates the bike and fresh fluid, lines, and pads will be an improvement. The newer master cylinder is a slightly bigger bore so its' moving more fluid..just enough to increase the clamping forces of the calipers-that's the improvement you want. This, in turn, makes it easier to stop. The only difference that I've found is the Gold Spots have the teflon coating. Otherwise they are all (Gold, Blue, Silver) the same. The R1/R6 calipers for the rear won't fit so just a new line should suffice.

And Here(<-click there) is where you can order them and they come with the correct banjos.

Sweekster - you are correct when you say that the larger bore = more fluid volume, however, the newer master cylinders actually have a smaller bore size compared to the older versions, smaller bore = greater pressure. The greater the pressure the more effective the brake system. You need pressure to work the brakes, not volume....the smaller bore enables the "one finger stop" you mentioned. The larger the bore the greater the effort needed (at the master cylinder) to work the brake....

[Lukather]

Ahhhhhhh sooooooooo........... does that mean I can keep my old Master and muchly improve brakeing.... oh dohjie one !

[mossy1200]

Ahhhhhhh sooooooooo........... does that mean I can keep my old Master and muchly improve brakeing.... oh dohjie one !

Im racing 89 in post classic on standard calipers and master with braided lines to double banjo at the master.
We are not alowed to upgrade calipers or fit wavey discs.

I can get rear wheel off the ground at 200kmph.
The upgrades look good but the extra stoping is just into the inability of a tyre to handle the force and stay in traction.
stock works fine if in good condition.

i have ebc pro lite discs coming for mine.
my wets wheels have stock fzr discs on them that work well.

Keep that puppy stock.
Save your coins for a second fzr build project.build up a sad retired fzr600.