clutch question

[mike94fzr600]

i think my clutch is going. when i am in gear and i am giving it gas when it hits 8k rpm it jumps to 11 and i am not going any faster. it does it in every gear. thats my clutch going bad right? if so can anyone tell me a good one to get and were

thanks mike

[reelrazor]

Sounds like yes, your clutch is on it's way out. You could try the complete clutch adjustment, but if it's been doing this for any appreciable time period, the plates are smoked.

OEM (Yamaha) friction plates are your best bet.

Any springs, you can get aftermarket (Barnett, etc.) 'heavy duty' springs.

[mike94fzr600]

it started to do it alittle last week than i did not ride it for a few dayes and than got back on it saturday and wow its realy bad

[mike94fzr600]

OK one more how hard is it to do this. can i do it with like BASIC hand tools. i have a good set of tools just not to many special tools

[PIMPMYFZR]

should be able to ... but if u have to replace it like reel said get stiffer springs i think factory pro has them..
BTW whats up man wher ya been

[mike94fzr600]

been around. my computer took a crash so now the only time i get online is at work

[Cursed94FZR600]

where would you recommend getting the friction plates from?

where would you recommend getting the heavy duty springs from?

[Cursed94FZR600]

also how many do i need of each:

friction plates:

steel plates:

springs:

anything i missed?

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_c ... &mmyId=666

does this have everything i should/need/would want to replace?

[DonTZ125]

You need 9 frictions, 8 steels, and 5 springs.

You may or may not need to replace the steels; this isn't a racebike getting the clutch hammered at every launch (unless you DO ride this way). Once you take the clutch pack out, stack your steels together, and look at the side. Can you see through the stack? Are the plates not all touching, all the way around? If no, then they are warped and done.

[yamaha_george]

You need 9 frictions, 8 steels, and 5 springs.

You may or may not need to replace the steels; this isn't a racebike getting the clutch hammered at every launch (unless you DO ride this way). Once you take the clutch pack out, stack your steels together, and look at the side. Can you see through the stack? Are the plates not all touching, all the way around? If no, then they are warped and done.

Hi,
Be aware that some yamaha steels are balanced and that they are placed in a set sequence and in a set position (they will go any where BUT the clutch is then unbalanced )

As said elsewhere clutch steels can warp or go soft from being overheated by riding with a slipping clutch and they turn BLUE.

If you use ALL the after market springs from Bennett I hope you have forearms like Popeye I suggest that you put only half bennett & half old springs in an alternating pattern ( I cannot remember if there are 5 or 6 )

[Cursed94FZR600]

is there that big of a difference between the springs when trying to pull the clutch in with new springs?

also my bike has 34,xxx miles. from that pov I'm thinking replace everything. the price i've found so far is 214 for all bennett replacement parts. that's friction plates, steel plates, and springs. that's from a local shop. ebay makes me nervous so i'm going from actual web sites and local stores. if anyone has a website they trust and has the parts please let me know.

[DonTZ125]

It's not so much difference between new and used, as it is between stock (firm) and Barnett (freakin' stiff). If your bike isn't 'built', or used for drag racing or something similarly abusive, you might want to stay stock. Reelrazor (one of the mechanical SMEs around here) has commented that he prefers stock friction plates over Barnett; YMMV.

You asked about whether this could be done with common hand tools - yes, absolutely. You could theoretically do it with the bike's toolkit, but I wouldn't really want to try undoing the spring bolts with a Phillips screwdriver...

There really isn't much to it:
1) soak new friction plates in clean motor oil overnight
2) remove the 10 allen bolts on the clutch cover (note which holes have the long ones)
3) remove the clutch cover (you will spill a little oil; have something underneath), don't lose the 2 dowel pins
4) remove the spring bolts using a socket wrench if possible, otherwise an impact driver (fat screwdriver you smack with a hammer) is a really good idea
5) remove springs, pressure plate, and plate pack
6) clean the clutch cover gasket surface, removing any stuck-on gasket, gasket goo, or other crud. Make sure it doesn't wind up in your engine
6) install 9 frictions and 8 steel plates, friction first, alternate friction and steel. The steels have a round edge and a stamped edge, and a tab on the OD. Install the steels so the round edges are all out or all in; don't alternate. The tabs should NOT overlap, spread them around the circle.
7) Install the pressure plate so the triangle on the plate and dot on the hub line up (I might have dot and triangle mixed up). The pressure plate goes on 5 ways, only one will work properly.
8) Install the springs and spring bolts; torque to 4.3 ft.lb - that's all! Overtorque one of these, and you're replacing the clutch hub. The spring towers can't accept a thread repair insert.
9) Apply light coat of oil to new gasket, and install gasket, dowel pins and cover. Gasket goo shouldn't be necessary. Torque cover bolts to 7.2 lb.ft (good hand-snug, don't reef).


You're done!

[yamaha_george]

It's not so much difference between new and used, as it is between stock (firm) and Barnett (freakin' stiff). If your bike isn't 'built', or used for drag racing or something similarly abusive, you might want to stay stock. Reelrazor (one of the mechanical SMEs around here) has commented that he prefers stock friction plates over Barnett; YMMV.

You asked about whether this could be done with common hand tools - yes, absolutely. You could theoretically do it with the bike's toolkit, but I wouldn't really want to try undoing the spring bolts with a Phillips screwdriver...

There really isn't much to it:
1) soak new friction plates in clean motor oil overnight
2) remove the 10 allen bolts on the clutch cover (note which holes have the long ones)
3) remove the clutch cover (you will spill a little oil; have something underneath), don't lose the 2 dowel pins
4) remove the spring bolts using a socket wrench if possible, otherwise an impact driver (fat screwdriver you smack with a hammer) is a really good idea
5) remove springs, pressure plate, and plate pack
6) clean the clutch cover gasket surface, removing any stuck-on gasket, gasket goo, or other crud. Make sure it doesn't wind up in your engine
6) install 9 frictions and 8 steel plates, friction first, alternate friction and steel. The steels have a round edge and a stamped edge, and a tab on the OD. Install the steels so the round edges are all out or all in; don't alternate. The tabs should NOT overlap, spread them around the circle.
7) Install the pressure plate so the triangle on the plate and dot on the hub line up (I might have dot and triangle lined up). The pressure plate goes on 5 ways, only one will work properly.
8) Install the springs and spring bolts; torque to 4.3 ft.lb - that's all! Overtorque one of these, and you're replacing the pressure plate. The spring towers can't accept a thread repair insert.
9) Apply light coat of oil to new gasket, and install gasket, dowel pins and cover. Gasket goo shouldn't be necessary. Torque cover bolts to 7.2 lb.ft (good hand-snug, don't reef).


You're done!

D,
nice write, copy it into the wiki so you (or we) do not have to re-write it. Nice work !!!

[DonTZ125]

Thank you, sir. I don't know how to load things into the wiki, so do please be my guest. I have edited the post to fix two errors, so copy it fresh.

[Cursed94FZR600]

ok would you go fully stock or barnnett springs and stock friction and steel?

what do you think the best compination will / could be?

and why that combo.

Thanks for all the help so far David M.