Bringing the 1k Back to life

[mossy1200]

Hey Sweeks you can buy the seals seperatly and just do the stuck pistons.there is places that will make them for 1/8th the price of yamaha originals so remember sometimes better the devil you know than the one you dont.
They are only a square edged o,ring and a dust seal.

Good luck.Cheers Steve

[chefen2006]

yeah. Very good looking bike. I like the understated all black look. Have you considered some "blue dot" R6 / R1 caliperes?

[sweekster]

yeah. Very good looking bike. I like the understated all black look. Have you considered some "blue dot" R6 / R1 caliperes?

Thanks...That's the look i was going for (plus there really isn't much to maintain). I have considered the blue dot calipers. At one point I had a full setup with a radial master cylinder from an 07 R6 and blue dots from a 2000 R6. The 94-95 FZR1000 (along with ALL years of YZF750s with USDs) forks are different than any previous years and to make those calipers work would have needed to remove material from the fork leg so they sit properly and switch out the rotors for Ducati 320mm models (Snow Flake ones to be exact)...or grind down the pads a bit so they don't hit rivets. That's the route that a lot of people who own Fox Eye YZF750 and FZR1000's go. I WANT to keep the 6 pot calipers because it's part of the subtle and unique things that set these bikes apart so the R6 setup has been sold. To be able to get better braking from these calipers and keep them I'm going to swap the master cylinder for a 19x18mm or 19x20mm radial master (which ever I can find for a good price as both will work). Right now I just need new calipers with good seals...

Hey Sweeks you can buy the seals separately and just do the stuck pistons.there is places that will make them for 1/8th the price of yamaha originals so remember sometimes better the devil you know than the one you don't.
They are only a square edged o,ring and a dust seal.

Good luck.Cheers Steve

You got a link for any places in the states Moss? $42 bucks x6 just doesn't sit well with me to repair these calipers..

[thatkid]

Hey you have any pictures of these seals? or measurements? You are welcome to the ones I pulled from the tokico calipers. Some of them are good so if they'll fit they are all yours. Also, since you have those baby's apart entirely you should consider powdercoating them.....

[mossy1200]

Hi Duane I was thinking about you brakes and worn seals will stop the pistons returning leaving you brakes on all the time and not prevent them coming on.
The outside seal is just a dust seal and does nothing to make brake operate.It just prevents the brake dust building up arround the seal that does.
If the outer dust seal is porked then you will have big build up preventing piston operation between the two.
The idea of the square edge o ring is to role on under pressure from the brake fluid and role back off when the pressure is not there any longer.
When the oring is worn they slide along the piston rather than role therefore wont role off because they never roled on.

There is a local place here that makes these kind of items.
I didnt find out about them until after I ordered seals from Yamaha Australia for mine.
If I had the exact specs of yours I could get you a quote for getting made.
i think it would be easier for you to go to your local bearing shop and ask them who makes seals locally.

Just remember that I think your pistons are clogged between the dust seal and the fluid seal or pitted.
You should strip them and clean and reasemble before buying anything.
Assume you have access to a piston removal tool.(clamps onto inside of piston).

[ofloinn3]

Sweekster ... You seem to be on top of this subject so I'll ask you this question. I just regreased my exup valve on my '94 1K and added a D&D can. I really liking the sound with the exup valve open. My system works great and ever quiet now that it's greased up. I'm I an idiot to want to run the bike without the exup? I commute thru the Harbor Tunnel here in Baltimore everyday and want to be heard during my ride. Lot's of challenged drivers here in the am. I know I'll lose some performance, but I need the noise. Is there anything else I need to do to run it open other then disconnecting the cables and removing or tieing open the valve? All suggestions and opinions welcome. Thanks for the help?

[sweekster]

Sweekster ... You seem to be on top of this subject so I'll ask you this question. I just regreased my exup valve on my '94 1K and added a D&D can. I really liking the sound with the exup valve open. My system works great and ever quiet now that it's greased up. I'm I an idiot to want to run the bike without the exup? I commute thru the Harbor Tunnel here in Baltimore everyday and want to be heard during my ride. Lot's of challenged drivers here in the am. I know I'll lose some performance, but I need the noise. Is there anything else I need to do to run it open other then disconnecting the cables and removing or tieing open the valve? All suggestions and opinions welcome. Thanks for the help?

Without a good amount of engine and carb work along with lots of time consuming tuning you won't match the linear performance the exup valve brings into the equation. A lot of people who still race these bikes run the exup header. If you're in traffic then I wouldn't suggest removing it. The lack of low end would be brutal with all the throttle feathering you'll have to do... A couple things you could try: Running an open header (just take the D&D off- bike gets A LOT louder). You could get one of those GP baffles that go on the end of the header-I see them on ebay all the time. Plenty loud and still allows for the exhaust to breath correctly. Take your end can apart and completely wrap the center perforated tube with a few layers of aluminum foil and cover all the holes-also makes it it louder (the cheapest way). If you're good with fabrication you can take out the valve (leave the servo plugged into ingnition box though) and make a cover plate for the hole.

Make sense?

[haunter]

yeah even my 1040 suffered without the exup in the low and mid range

[mossy1200]

Without a good amount of engine and carb work along with lots of time consuming tuning you won't match the linear performance the exup valve brings into the equation. A lot of people who still race these bikes run the exup header. If you're in traffic then I wouldn't suggest removing it. The lack of low end would be brutal with all the throttle feathering you'll have to do... A couple things you could try: Running an open header (just take the D&D off- bike gets A LOT louder). You could get one of those GP baffles that go on the end of the header-I see them on ebay all the time. Plenty loud and still allows for the exhaust to breath correctly. Take your end can apart and completely wrap the center perforated tube with a few layers of aluminum foil and cover all the holes-also makes it it louder (the cheapest way). If you're good with fabrication you can take out the valve (leave the servo plugged into ingnition box though) and make a cover plate for the hole

Did you sell me a lemon header Sweeks.LOL

[ofloinn3]

I have a good looking Scorpion pipe I took off to put on the D&D. Would the foil trick work with that as well? Also, would I have to re-jet to use a GP slip-on?

[sweekster]

I have a good looking Scorpion pipe I took off to put on the D&D. Would the foil trick work with that as well? Also, would I have to re-jet to use a GP slip-on?

The foil trick will work with most slip on pipes actually. Rejetting is a good idea. If you've read through my thread here you'll see that I'm running Factory Pro stage 1 jetting. But that's direction I wanted to go with the bike. You may not need to rejet. Starting with the foil trick on the other slip on will probably get you where you want to be. It's where I would start.

[ofloinn3]

Cool! Thanks for your help. Sorry if I messed up your thread. I'll let you know how I make out with a pm.

[sweekster]

So...today's a holiday. I had some time. Decided to take the carbs off the bike and maybe swap in some stock carb jets to see if that would help my drive ability issues. Open them up and the reason why it's acting the way it is is VERY apparent. I guess I didn't do that good of a job cleaning the inside of the tank. I cleaned clumps, yes clumps, of old gas out of the carbs. 3 blocked pilot jets and 1 broken emulsion tube retaining bolt. Gave them a good cleaning, replaced the bolt with one from my bag of carb spares, and reassembled. Poured in some seafoam in the tank and I had to prime the carbs 4 times (basically turning the key and letting the fuel pump click and then repeating that every 5 minutes) and it fired up. This was problem it seems as the bike now wastes no time getting to red line. No flat spots at all.

Turned out to be a good day..

[PIMPMYFZR]

Bet ya had a big smile after the ride ....Nothing like smooth power all way through

[sweekster]

Bet ya had a big smile after the ride ....Nothing like smooth power all way through

I sure did.