Swapped tach doesn't work

[BAT]

The tach on my new 93 doesn't work. I plugged in the old one and it worked, but the cluster is busted. Guy smashed a deer in TWO. . He stayed on the bike too.

Anyhow he said its a different cluster and I'm assuming it was a yamaha, it looks similar and only a few wires are different. Everything else works but the tach for the most part. The gauge lights and high beam indicator light flicker when I play with the start button.

Is it possible the tach needs a different signal?

[95FZR600]

It should have been plug and play.

[sweekster]

Would you happen to have a pic of what you are trying to get working on your bike?

[BAT]

Here. Just the turn signal indicator light was wired wrong. Two power wires were running to the light instead of a ground.

Could a malfunctioning high voltage VR have broke the tach? The cluster is different from the old one, and I don't see how I can install the old tach into this cluster.

[BAT]

I checked resistance between all the tach terminals and they are very close to the old tach. Not sure if that means anything.

[dru86]

It is possible that the VR cooked the tacho, it did happen twice to me.

[R3TARD]

theres a capacitor inside the tach assembly and ill bet its blown. very easy to replace though. crack it open i bet im right

[BAT]

I already tried to pull the tach apart and couldn't figure it out. I don't know if the face is supposed to pop off or what. I undid the two rear little screws.

If the cap was blown wouldn't the resistance change between the terminals? Well obviously something is broke. I will try to pull it apart again and look for the capacitor.

Thanks for the tip!!!

[R3TARD]

that cap is actually beneath the face of the gauge its orangish colored . just take all the screws out of the back and the gauge case should seperate

[BAT]

I'm pretty sure the tach isn't meant to be taken apart. The face ring was pressed/bent around the plastic. I got it off though. Didn't see any capacitors that I was used to, if any at all. I also couldn't find anything burnt, and there is continuity from all poles to both wires on the actuator. ???

Here is what mine looks like with its guts spilled.

http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii25 ... 9_2006.jpg

If I have to replace it, would a properly sized automotive one work? A nice autometer would look bad ass in there.

I believe this tach pulls a signal from only one coil...

[R3TARD]

that big round thing in the middle is the capacitor and though fuzzy it looks good to me from here. Dont worry about taking it apart I have takenmine apart just like that and its fine.

[BAT]

I really buggered up the face ring though. It'll go back together ok.

Either I will have to shoot all the wires and check for proper resistance, I just learned about resistor color codes. I'm not looking forward to it. If I can figure out how to wire in a car tach, I'm going to do that. A 3 3/8" will fit right in. I think this tach uses a signal from only one coil/one cylinder, whereas a car tach uses multiple signals from a single coil. I know you can adjust them from v8 to 4 cyl, but I'm not sure how it'll work with one cylinder.

Nothing appears to be burnt in there. Everything has continuity. The first thing to go would have to be a resistor though right?

First thing I'll do is try and decipher the capacitor and figure out how to test it. I don't understand why a tach would need a capacitor anyway?

[R3TARD]

good luck finding a car tach that revs 12k

[BAT]

That is difficult, but I found one that goes to 18.

[BAT]

The screws on the back just held the guts in. The faceplate had to be pried off like opening a can of beans with a screwdriver. I just swapped the guts from the old one.