YZF swinger swap has begun...... ( NOW COMPLETED )

[95FZR600]

just get a 120 link chain.

[jax]

just get a 120 link chain.

Yep. Thats what I got sitting at home. I just needed to figure out how many link I need to remove from it.

As it stands......Same length as I have now minus 1 .

[shredex]

i went from 15/47 to 15/45 and didnt need a link removed...

remember that you are able to move the wheel back and forth to tighten or loosin the chain.
what you gonna do with the 48T sprocket
lookin for a 50T but 48 will help

[thatkid]

i went from 15/47 to 15/45 and didnt need a link removed...

remember that you are able to move the wheel back and forth to tighten or loosin the chain.
what you gonna do with the 48T sprocket
lookin for a 50T but 48 will help

While that's true shred, the idea is to get it as tight as possible at the beginning so you have the ability to adjust it for a longer period.

[jax]

what you gonna do with the 48T sprocket
lookin for a 50T but 48 will help

My current chain / sprocket combo on the stock FZR swinger is a DID gold with a 14/48 setup. The front is a metal sprocket. The rear is a sprocket specialists aluminum one. The chain is still in great shape and the sprockets are also. I figured maybe i will post them in the for sale section.

[shredex]

what you gonna do with the 48T sprocket
lookin for a 50T but 48 will help

My current chain / sprocket combo on the stock FZR swinger is a DID gold with a 14/48 setup. The front is a metal sprocket. The rear is a sprocket specialists aluminum one. The chain is still in great shape and the sprockets are also. I figured maybe i will post them in the for sale section.

iv got the same exact thing but I had 15/47 gearing....let me know once you get it up, im interested

[the_finch]

Im actually more worried about getting the correct number of links since Im going to a 14/47 setup from a 14/48 that is on my FZR now.

When measuring to get the right number of links do you put the wheel all the way forward and get the next link back on the chain?

When I did my 15/50 conversion on my bike, I just slid the wheel all the way forward, installed both sprockets, and pulled the chain as tight as possible. I cut it with the two links about as far apart as the master link, used a chain puller to pull it together and hold it, and riveted it. If you don't have a chain puller, you could probably just feed a zip-tie through the chain links you need to rivet to hold them close enough together while you put the master link in.

[ragedigital]

When I did my 15/50 conversion on my bike, I just slid the wheel all the way forward, installed both sprockets, and pulled the chain as tight as possible.

That's all I did. Then I marked where to cut the chain, pulled it off, cut it, reinstalled it and riveted it on... easy as pie - no calculating.

[jax]

When I did my 15/50 conversion on my bike, I just slid the wheel all the way forward, installed both sprockets, and pulled the chain as tight as possible.

That's all I did. Then I marked where to cut the chain, pulled it off, cut it, reinstalled it and riveted it on... easy as pie - no calculating.

Don't you want it to have some slack going forward?

Im tearng it apart this weekend. Will take pics for sure.

[ragedigital]

You will be able to tell if it's too tight. Chances are you're not going to be able to pull it as tight as possible and if it is too tight, then you just cut it back one link to compensate. You'll have time before you rivet it shut to check it.

Here is a good Install PDF from SOAP. Start looking on page 13....

http://www.sumofallparts.net/install/installkit.pdf

[abs929cbrrr]

i dont recoment using a rivit type master link...ive been using clip style since on all my biks atv, 3wheelers since 1994....much easiter and does not require special tools to get it off then.

[ragedigital]

Sum of all Parts are now shipping rivets unless a clip is requested due to too many clips flying off the chains. I went with a rivet, but you will need someone with a proper riviting tool to apply it OR you'll have to buy the tool.

I ran a clip style before and didn't have any issues, but I've heard a lot of horror stories at the Track Days about them.

[jax]

Yeah, There is alot of debate regarding clip and rivet style masterlinks. I myself am comfortable using a clip style link like I have now. I really dont race my bike hard and its been fine. I check it every lube on my chain. About once a month.

No won the other hand. If I was a stunter and rode the bike inexcess of 100 MPH every day then yeah. I would go with the rivet style.



Putting the clear coat on my wheel even though its cold outside. I have a heater pointed at the wheel in the garage and everytihng seems to be going good. I plan on taking it apart this weekend and starting the swap.

[jax]

Well.....Looks like I focked up paint on my rim by using the clear coat over it. It turne dit from anice white color to a dingly yellowish white now. Its staying that way. Not going through all that work and money again.

so for those going to paint your own wheels......do not use the duplicolor wheel clear coat over white

[thatkid]

Well.....Looks like I focked up paint on my rim by using the clear coat over it. It turne dit from anice white color to a dingly yellowish white now. Its staying that way. Not going through all that work and money again.

so for those going to paint your own wheels......do not use the duplicolor wheel clear coat over white

I bet the issue was more the heat lamp. Clear coat is pretty finiky about heat. For powder coat clear it has to bake at 100 degrees cooler than colors or it will turn yellowish. Since yours are yellowing I'm assuming that's it. You could probably sand the wheel with a wet sand 400 grit or something and see if you can some of the yellowing out.

Sorry though man. That sucks. I've had it happen so I feel for ya.