reusing spark plug?

[sweekster]

call me crazy but just go get some more...........what, they are like a whole dollar

they cost $5 for the NGK CR9E/CR8E.
so why spend $20 when I can reuse the old ones and use that $20 for something I could use like gas and parts to finish the USD fork swap and so on.
I dont make enough to just go out and keep getting all this new stuff.
i work 4-10 hours a week at $8/hr

Going back to my previous post in this thread...
If you have like 5 or so bucks head to Advance or Pepboys or Orielly's or Car Quest or the local parts shop and get Autolite 4303's. They're roughly a dollar or so a piece (maybe a little more) and work just as good as the NGKs OEMed by Yamaha. I'm actually running Champion plugs in my 1000 and they are fine. It's not really a requirement to run the NGKs. Plus they cost too much. Of course try the free stuff first but now you know you have more plug options.

[shredex]

Going back to my previous post in this thread...
If you have like 5 or so bucks head to Advance or Pepboys or Orielly's or Car Quest or the local parts shop and get Autolite 4303's. They're roughly a dollar or so a piece (maybe a little more) and work just as good as the NGKs OEMed by Yamaha. I'm actually running Champion plugs in my 1000 and they are fine. It's not really a requirement to run the NGKs. Plus they cost too much. Of course try the free stuff first but now you know you have more plug options.

ill have to deffinetly check that out

[yamaha_george]

Going back to my previous post in this thread...
If you have like 5 or so bucks head to Advance or Pepboys or Orielly's or Car Quest or the local parts shop and get Autolite 4303's. They're roughly a dollar or so a piece (maybe a little more) and work just as good as the NGKs OEMed by Yamaha. I'm actually running Champion plugs in my 1000 and they are fine. It's not really a requirement to run the NGKs. Plus they cost too much. Of course try the free stuff first but now you know you have more plug options.

ill have to deffinetly check that out

Shredex,
By all means try out plugs from other brands BUT the so called "conversion" charts by makers comparing their offering to everyone elses are NOT reliable as far as heat ranges & materials are concerned.

Our Mother company were Champion distributors we used them in work vehicles but NEVER in bikes as they were a nightmare for heat ranges compared with the Yamaha recommended NGK, now admittedly they would push a Japanese company but they worked.

I did use champion plugs on Bultaco's because the heat range on the OEM plug was off by a half grade which the Champions supplied as a stock replacement for the Bosch OEM's.

So just relying on nearest equivalent can be fraught with problems.for those not prepared to do their research

[reelrazor]

I use the Autolite 4303s. They seem to be right on.

I STILL don't get why Shred's external valve cover gasket leak has ANYTHING to do with his fouling of plugs..

There's something more going on there.......

[RCPlayland]

I do the blow em out and then the wire brush trick too.

But keep in mind that they do build up resistance after so much use and the spark becomes weak after time.

Also I use quadra fire head plugs. I can't remember the brand, but they run me about $15 each. I change them out once a year or every other year.

Having a strong spark makes all the difference on starting, acceleration, and clean burns.

[yamaha_george]

[quote="RCPlayland"
Also I use quadra fire head plugs. I can't remember the brand, but they run me about $15 each. I change them out once a year or every other year.

Having a strong spark makes all the difference on starting, acceleration, and clean burns.[/quote]

RCP,
You basically get what you pay for as in anything else in this world, which is why I use precious metal plugs I get good response NEVER had one fail me road / track / drag racing and I had some very hairy two strokes using them.

[reelrazor]

Dang, hey guys. I tried to quote/reply to a post by George...it called it an edit and credited it to George and not me....I didn't want him to be seen as counterpointing himself...so I hit the delete button.....now what he said is all gone.....

So...here's whatt it was:

I use the Autolite 4303s. They seem to be right on.

I STILL don't get why Shred's external valve cover gasket leak has ANYTHING to do with his fouling of plugs..

There's something more going on there.......

"Yamaha_George"
RR,
what occurred to me was that the oil pressure was blowing the valve train gasket & the seal on the valve stem(s) & fouling the plug that way.................

The drainback channel is the entire cam chain well. It's not like the full volume of the cam chest could get filled up(if it did, the sump would be dry).

If he's building crankcase pressure enough (blow by) to overcome the valve guide seals...again...something ELSE is wrong.

[shredex]

It just leaked on the one side....the side that the plugs kept getting flooded..
they come out black as if Im running rich....but my mixture screws are set at 1 1/2 turns out, so if anything, im running lean.

all over where my headers connect to the engine in black on the one side as well which is from the leak I believe.

next vacation I will be pulling the motor and doing a clean up and installing a new valve cover gasket. ill probably tear the hole thing apart and check the pistons and heads but I have to undo that chain drive and other stuff and I might f**k up the timing.
but thats what you guys are here for!

[yamaha_george]

but thats what you guys are here for!

I should live so long LoL

[shredex]

Ok, I let the 3 plugs that fowled prematurly just sit for the past month without moisture.
today I killed another plug, so i thought I would grab one of the ones that have been sitting and it worked!

I dont know if it could be a cause of it, but I give the bike some throttle when Im starting it.
if Im flooding it, could that be the cause of my spark plug problem?
sometime ill twist the throttle just when the bikes off sometimes and make reving noises with my mouth....

[match417]

can i make a suggestion about your leaking gasket? I'm assuming you're talking about the head gasket and that you're leaking coolant in the engine. If that's the case, go buy this stuff called "blue devil engine sealant" I've used it before with great results. You have to take your thermostat out and then just follow the directions. It seals up your cooling system, headgaskets, small oring leaks, it's good stuff, and i've never heard of anyone having to use it for a bike, but i don't see why it would hurt. I think it's like $40 or something, don't get anything else though, some stuff sucks.

[reelrazor]

Ok, I let the 3 plugs that fowled prematurly just sit for the past month without moisture.
today I killed another plug, so i thought I would grab one of the ones that have been sitting and it worked!

I dont know if it could be a cause of it, but I give the bike some throttle when Im starting it.
if Im flooding it, could that be the cause of my spark plug problem?
sometime ill twist the throttle just when the bikes off sometimes and make reving noises with my mouth....

You shouldn't touch (or have to) the throttle when starting. FULL choke, crank it over. It should catch....let it run, NO THROTTLE until the revs rise.. and ease the choke lever down a bit to lower the idle..when it doesn't need choke anymore to stay idling, you are good to go. In your kinda weather it should only take a couple minutes from stone cold in teh morning, and you shouldn't need choke if restarting within an hour or so of running it all the way to temp.

If your bike doesn't do this..it SHOULD>

YES, this could be part of your plug fouling issue.

[match417]

I dont know if it could be a cause of it, but I give the bike some throttle when Im starting it.

you mean like roll-release-roll-release-start button? i see people do this all the time on carb'd bikes and it cracks me up... All it does is open the butterflies a couple times, it doesn't prime anything. But if you open the throttle a hair while cranking? I wouldn't advise it because there isn't any oil squirted in the chamber yet, the only thing you have its the residue from the last time it ran. And if you use cycle oil, the residue stays there a while because of the poly-zinc-whatever stuff thats added in. But anyway if your carbs are tuned wrong and you HAVE to roll on your throttle a little then yes, could be a wrong a/f ratio. It's ok to roll your throttle a little bit on startup as long as it hasn't been longer than a couple days. The poly-zinc stuff is designed to coat the engine for a while. But i would look into the a/f ratio if your plugs keep fouling. Or maybe your carbs need a thorough cleaning.

[shredex]

carbs DEFFINITLY dont need cleaning...i made them more spotless than they were just a few months ago.
I do the roll-on-off-on-off throttle AS Im hitting the start button.
I dont really need to do it. sometimes I do and sometimes I dont.
I need to today because I was only running on 3 cylinders because of a dead spark plug

[reelrazor]

When you open the throtle when cranking on the starting circuit (choke), the raw FUEL that is DUMPED into the carb throat DOES NOT get atomised.

The starting circuit DEPENDS on the butterflies (throttle plates) being closed to atomise the fuel.

Quit it.

(and matc is right about it not being an issue to play with the throttle when you are not cranking..our carbs don't have an accelerator pump, so no fuel is added).