shredex wrote:ok, I got the 04-06 R1 tank in today.
I am either going to have to mod the tank or frame to make it work because its alittle to wide for the back part of the frame.
I think I might build a custom tank and fiberglass a mold with the r1 tank to make a tank cover for my bike.
Ill have it all figured out.
I paid $50 shipped for this beat up tank with a decent sized dent in the side.
and I just found an ad on criegs for the same tank but in perfect condition and with the lock and black ravon (the color I was going to paint it) and he wants $50 for it..... So Im going to be picking it up this weekend if its not gone by then.
Shred,
I assume (never good) that the tank you are talking about is steel and has no cover but is a proper tank.
Under those circumstances I would use a can opener to cut up the center of the tank along its length, top & bottom, so that the front section alone is still in one piece.
Then i would push in the sides so they overlap in the middle and match the frame.
Then mark the tank so that an equal amount of metal is removed from both "sides" on the outside and GAS weld it back up.
Yeh yeh I here every one saying bloody dangerous WRONG of you flush the tank in the first place with exhaust gas from your cage for 10 mins
Why gas weld because it leaves damn all bead to work around that would spoil the tank out line.
I have done this on "patriot"
see:-
http://www.saltmine.org.uk/kgb/patriot.html
a DT175 of the mx series which had a miniscule gas tank for any kind of serious bush trips and what was done you can read about on the page.
I have also done some thing similar to put a modern flush filler caop on the RD series tank which had a "jewel tweeker" for a gas tank in cases of a sudden stop.
See:-
http://www.saltmine.org.uk/kgb/yellowperil.html
I think it is on page 2 or 3
the one advantage of the unzipping method is you can quite easily remove any dent any place while it is un zipped :-} and just maybe make a profit from the spare one