The connectors where the stator joins the wiring harness look like crap. I'll be replacing them this weekend and inspecting all my wiring.
I really don't want any more melting electronics.
Thanks reelrazor

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yeah, if in doubt get rid of them. Your local carquest/napa shop etc that deals with the indy car repair places should be able to get you oem crimp/solder on connectors. Slather them up with the dielectric and make sure the new r/r is grounded well-if in doubt check resistance from it to the batt neg. It is not being able to get rid of the excess voltage that gets 'em hot and burns out its' diodes.davephipps wrote:So far everything is checking out.
The connectors where the stator joins the wiring harness look like crap. I'll be replacing them this weekend and inspecting all my wiring.
I really don't want any more melting electronics.
Thanks reelrazor
davephipps wrote:Was going to pick up my son today when this nice motorist beside me pointed franticly at the back of my bike.
What do you know? There's smoke coming from under my seat.
A quick pullover, pop the seat and find my new aftermarket regulator/rectifier is almost on fire. It had already melted through the backing plate!
I'm taking it in stride and it actually funny and good material for puns.
On a serious side will the later model FZR RRs' fit an early one directly, or will I need to modify the wiring?
Thanks
Dave (Smokin' Arse) Phipps
so it looked like this?davephipps wrote:UNfortunately no pic yet, I need to get batteries for the camera. I does look simalar to the electrosport version for the early FZRs.
Also been busy with the new goldwing project. I found a freebie 78 Goldwing on Craigslist. Taking stock and seeing if it's salvagable.
so your aftermarket one fried????davephipps wrote:Oops, it did it again![]()
I'm saying heck with it and putting a YZF unit on it. I'm getting tired of these suprise walks.
Any suggestions on aftermarket YZF VR's that work, or should I just ebay it?
check how clean your contacts are where the ground is connected, scrape it clean with something and tighten the crap out of it (without stripping the bolt holes)..a bad ground will kill your regulators. In my opinion, the stock FZR regulator should work fine if all of the ground connections are clean and no wires connections are corroded. The problem that I believe that they have with frying is as the bike gets older, connections get corroded or dirty..maybe even loose..and it kills the regulator from the heat generated by there being a faulty ground from a bad connection..then it kills the one you've replaced, and the one after that, and the one after that, until you clean the ground wire contact points. I think that's why they put so many huge fins on the newer ones, they realized that was happening so they made larger fins to cool it so it can handle the heat when the connections on the ground corrode.davephipps wrote:Oops, it did it again![]()
I'm saying heck with it and putting a YZF unit on it. I'm getting tired of these suprise walks.
Any suggestions on aftermarket YZF VR's that work, or should I just ebay it?
I'm with match on this. The ground is where the reg/rect 'dumps' the excess power. Any resistance there backs up current in the r/r...pops a diode and total failure is right around the corner. Extend the ground lead and run it all the way back to the main chassis ground (right where the battery neg cable is anchored)which on mine WAS on the cross member by the upper shock mount, which I added a strap down to the engine itself (upper back case bolt). Beyond that, run high beams all the time during dayllight (soaks more current). And make sure the battery neg connection is clean too.match417 wrote:check how clean your contacts are where the ground is connected, scrape it clean with something and tighten the crap out of it (without stripping the bolt holes)..a bad ground will kill your regulators. In my opinion, the stock FZR regulator should work fine if all of the ground connections are clean and no wires connections are corroded. The problem that I believe that they have with frying is as the bike gets older, connections get corroded or dirty..maybe even loose..and it kills the regulator from the heat generated by there being a faulty ground from a bad connection..then it kills the one you've replaced, and the one after that, and the one after that, until you clean the ground wire contact points. I think that's why they put so many huge fins on the newer ones, they realized that was happening so they made larger fins to cool it so it can handle the heat when the connections on the ground corrode.davephipps wrote:Oops, it did it again![]()
I'm saying heck with it and putting a YZF unit on it. I'm getting tired of these suprise walks.
Any suggestions on aftermarket YZF VR's that work, or should I just ebay it?
Don't forget to hard wire the horn so it blares all the time, the neighbors will worship you!reelrazor wrote: Beyond that, run high beams all the time during dayllight (soaks more current). And make sure the battery neg connection is clean too.
Horn is GONE, listen for fingertommyj27 wrote:Don't forget to hard wire the horn so it blares all the time, the neighbors will worship you!reelrazor wrote: Beyond that, run high beams all the time during dayllight (soaks more current). And make sure the battery neg connection is clean too.
what sound does your finger make?reelrazor wrote:Horn is GONE, listen for fingertommyj27 wrote:Don't forget to hard wire the horn so it blares all the time, the neighbors will worship you!reelrazor wrote: Beyond that, run high beams all the time during dayllight (soaks more current). And make sure the battery neg connection is clean too.