Well I'm still running on all stock brakes and it's definatly not cuttin it.YAM93 wrote:Not to add to the confusion, just to ask about a point that has been brought up. The REAR master cylinder...........uh....... is the REAR master cylinder all that critical ? I thought we worried more about what our front brakes are capable of. Just curious. I never replaced either MC, front or back. I'm pretty happy with the new SS brake lines and EBC HH+ pads. I guess if you're racing it makes sense to upgrade all of it. Oh well, just was wondering how critical it is.
Unfortunately I can't afford the rearsets right now, way too much other stuff on my plate. But I like the design.
Carry on.
REARSETS
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- megaloxana
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Re: REARSETS
'92 FZR 600
Airtech R1 kit \*/ 520 conversion \*/ 14F-47R gearing
K&N pod filters \*/ Stage 3 jet kit \*/ Factory Pro shift kit \*/ Full V&H SS exhaust
Custom '02 R6 undertail \*/ YZF gas tank \*/ Raised via dogbones \*/ custom flush turnsignals
Full R6 brake set-up \*/ SS lines \*/ Progressive fork springs \*/ ZX2 coilpack
ADD YOURSELF TO THE OFFICIAL FZRONLINE GOOGLE EARTH MAP
Airtech R1 kit \*/ 520 conversion \*/ 14F-47R gearing
K&N pod filters \*/ Stage 3 jet kit \*/ Factory Pro shift kit \*/ Full V&H SS exhaust
Custom '02 R6 undertail \*/ YZF gas tank \*/ Raised via dogbones \*/ custom flush turnsignals
Full R6 brake set-up \*/ SS lines \*/ Progressive fork springs \*/ ZX2 coilpack
ADD YOURSELF TO THE OFFICIAL FZRONLINE GOOGLE EARTH MAP
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Re: REARSETS
My 2 Cents on teh rear brake is that I kept the old rear brake master cylinder and caliper but upgraded to a wavy rotor on the F-3 wheel I am installing. The front I went a bit ape shit on and spent big bucks.
I added a R-1 Front end and then upgraded to overseized wavy rotors from Brake - Tech. But then I race and need the front brakes working.
The rear are for emergencies only. To be truthfull I have only used my rear brake once (Effectively) in about 25 years of racing, in an emergency situation.
Once off the track I found tapping the rear does really bad things at high rates of speed. ha ha.
Sometimes I use it to get the back end down and front end up just before I pitch it into a corner to even out the suspension but it's a fraction of use compared to the front.
So I just got a rebuild kit and went with it. I might upgrade alter but for now I just want to get it together and on the track.
Regarding price.
I thought 250 bucks shipped was pretty reasonable. I hardly have a mark up due to the rising global metal prices. If I made a thousand sets or even a hundered at a time I could get the cost down more. But for ten set batches its not easy to even get a manufacturer to do it.
John just does them for me 'cause we are fellow riders. The brother hood or motorcycle riders knows no Geo/Political boundries
Also its nearly 40 bucks just to ship to the USA or the UK from here as well.
I added a R-1 Front end and then upgraded to overseized wavy rotors from Brake - Tech. But then I race and need the front brakes working.
The rear are for emergencies only. To be truthfull I have only used my rear brake once (Effectively) in about 25 years of racing, in an emergency situation.
Once off the track I found tapping the rear does really bad things at high rates of speed. ha ha.
Sometimes I use it to get the back end down and front end up just before I pitch it into a corner to even out the suspension but it's a fraction of use compared to the front.
So I just got a rebuild kit and went with it. I might upgrade alter but for now I just want to get it together and on the track.
Regarding price.
I thought 250 bucks shipped was pretty reasonable. I hardly have a mark up due to the rising global metal prices. If I made a thousand sets or even a hundered at a time I could get the cost down more. But for ten set batches its not easy to even get a manufacturer to do it.
John just does them for me 'cause we are fellow riders. The brother hood or motorcycle riders knows no Geo/Political boundries
Also its nearly 40 bucks just to ship to the USA or the UK from here as well.
- abs929cbrrr
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Re: REARSETS
$250 is not a bad price. look at vortex rear sets...$318 i think they list for. i am going to go with a 03 gsxr 600/750 rear master cylinder set up and my rear wheel is a 02 r6 with aftermarket braking waved rotor. i wanna stop asap plus newer parts them 20 year old fzr parts never hurts. if your rear sets had pivoting pegs at least i would think about buying.
being a street rider i need things made around crash and fix factors. i will be designing my own set up, it wont be as bling as yours but i can get replacement parts cheap and easy. i am sure if one memeber with the rear sets crashes and burns and screws up the bike he would have to shell out another $250 for a set and that could really piss a lower budget street riding off.
maybe you should start selling them on ebay or somthing and see where it takes you, then have a redesign or differend options once you have sold nuff to update your product.
its really nice work and a design, its just not for a street rider the way its been designed i feel.
being a street rider i need things made around crash and fix factors. i will be designing my own set up, it wont be as bling as yours but i can get replacement parts cheap and easy. i am sure if one memeber with the rear sets crashes and burns and screws up the bike he would have to shell out another $250 for a set and that could really piss a lower budget street riding off.
maybe you should start selling them on ebay or somthing and see where it takes you, then have a redesign or differend options once you have sold nuff to update your product.
its really nice work and a design, its just not for a street rider the way its been designed i feel.
02 xr200r set up for XC
96 trx300ex set up for XC
im roadbike less!!!!!!
96 trx300ex set up for XC
im roadbike less!!!!!!
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Re: REARSETS
as I mentioned above CR_1 could make the design for Folding stuff of what ever the customer wanted , simply by leaving a pilot hole in the bracket part. I would be suprised if when it was being machined it was bored to final size in one pass. The norm is to spot holes and then final machine to size being more accurate that way.abs600fzrr wrote:$250 is not a bad price. look at vortex rear sets...$318 i think they list for.. if your rear sets had pivoting pegs at least i would think about buying.
being a street rider i need things made around crash and fix factors.
i will be designing my own set up, it wont be as bling as yours but i can get replacement parts cheap and easy. i am sure if one memeber with the rear sets crashes and burns and screws up the bike he would have to shell out another $250 for a set and that could really piss a lower budget street riding off.
maybe you should start selling them on ebay or somthing and see where it takes you, then have a redesign or differend options once you have sold nuff to update your product.
its really nice work and a design, its just not for a street rider the way its been designed i feel.
If some of the batch was left "unfinished" ie no final size hole then when it was bought the owner could fit what ever size type of foot peg they liked.
No extra cost to CR_1 and the customer base is bigger
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Re: REARSETS
Thanks for the input guys.
Regarding the pivot of the foot peg;
The foot peg is actually attached like this:
The peg itself is pressure fit over a steel shank that has a hole which is accessed via the hollow outer hole.
The steel shank fits through the rear sets plate and has a few other spacers and stuff in there and is then bolted from the back side of the heel guard area.
I did it this way so the peg acts as a bit of a frame slider as well as a peg.
(Again designed for race)
So getting a flip up style would be a bit of a chore, I think. I woudl have to make a braket bolt to teh outer part of teh rar set adn then hae a peg designed aroudn what is most common out there for off tehshelf pegs so you coudl easily get your own pegs later if need be.
As far as replacement parts for when people crash. I have a frew spare parts here... maybe more than a few. so if anyoen crashes out let me know Imight hav a spare lever or heel guard if yo need one. I might jsut ahv john make a few mroe extra parts to have on hand this next go round.
\
Ialready ripped apart the rear sets John made for my TZR..twice. It sucks for sure but all the rear sets I have made have interchangable parts so all the levers fit all other models, foot pegs.....everything, all interchangable.
But again it is all for not if you don't like the design since that's huge part of why a person wants to buy the things to begin with.
I understand they are not a good looking design for street riders and no offence taken.
Sorry but at this time I have no firm plans to change the design other than upgrade from any feed back I get from races/riders who find an issue.
Regarding the pivot of the foot peg;
The foot peg is actually attached like this:
The peg itself is pressure fit over a steel shank that has a hole which is accessed via the hollow outer hole.
The steel shank fits through the rear sets plate and has a few other spacers and stuff in there and is then bolted from the back side of the heel guard area.
I did it this way so the peg acts as a bit of a frame slider as well as a peg.
(Again designed for race)
So getting a flip up style would be a bit of a chore, I think. I woudl have to make a braket bolt to teh outer part of teh rar set adn then hae a peg designed aroudn what is most common out there for off tehshelf pegs so you coudl easily get your own pegs later if need be.
As far as replacement parts for when people crash. I have a frew spare parts here... maybe more than a few. so if anyoen crashes out let me know Imight hav a spare lever or heel guard if yo need one. I might jsut ahv john make a few mroe extra parts to have on hand this next go round.
\
Ialready ripped apart the rear sets John made for my TZR..twice. It sucks for sure but all the rear sets I have made have interchangable parts so all the levers fit all other models, foot pegs.....everything, all interchangable.
But again it is all for not if you don't like the design since that's huge part of why a person wants to buy the things to begin with.
I understand they are not a good looking design for street riders and no offence taken.
Sorry but at this time I have no firm plans to change the design other than upgrade from any feed back I get from races/riders who find an issue.
Re: REARSETS
So I guess you still only have six people that are on the list?I am just asking because I have wanted these ever since I saw the first run that was made.
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Re: REARSETS
Yes So far only 6 people.
Anyone else interested?
Oh and after some thought, I decided to poll those who bought the rear sets. If they have R-6 or whatever master cylinders and are of a commonality. I will purchase one and make the next batch so they accommodate an r-6 master cylinder.
But the key is I need to have on Master Cylinder that everyone agrees on.
I am not sure about R-6 Masters and what years work with each other or if they are a the same so if some on could educate me.
Guess I need to go find a master cylinder now too. Whats an average cost of one of those?
And I purchased a 05 Suzuki GSXR 600 Rear brake Caliper that is an under mount type which goes with the 3TJ swinger set up. Supposed to bolt right on according to a post member so when it gets here next week we will see. So a braking upgrade there out of fitment needs more than any other reason.
Oh John and I also looked at the bottom of the plunger where it connects to the lever. We see its in conflict with the swingarm on my 3TJ swinger and are workng on a soultion to make that as low profile as possible to not conflict with R-6 swingers as well. I already have an idea of what I want to do so I just need to show him when I get to his shop this wednesday.
Anyone else interested?
Oh and after some thought, I decided to poll those who bought the rear sets. If they have R-6 or whatever master cylinders and are of a commonality. I will purchase one and make the next batch so they accommodate an r-6 master cylinder.
But the key is I need to have on Master Cylinder that everyone agrees on.
I am not sure about R-6 Masters and what years work with each other or if they are a the same so if some on could educate me.
Guess I need to go find a master cylinder now too. Whats an average cost of one of those?
And I purchased a 05 Suzuki GSXR 600 Rear brake Caliper that is an under mount type which goes with the 3TJ swinger set up. Supposed to bolt right on according to a post member so when it gets here next week we will see. So a braking upgrade there out of fitment needs more than any other reason.
Oh John and I also looked at the bottom of the plunger where it connects to the lever. We see its in conflict with the swingarm on my 3TJ swinger and are workng on a soultion to make that as low profile as possible to not conflict with R-6 swingers as well. I already have an idea of what I want to do so I just need to show him when I get to his shop this wednesday.
Re: REARSETS
To anyone considering these:
JUMP ON THIS!!!
I got a set from the first run and I love them. I actually really like the heel guard design, especially compared to stock. It gives it a racy custom look IMO. The quility is definately there and the price is right for what you get. Upgrading to a more modern MC is pretty easy though. Im running a Brembo R1 rear MC. I think its a 02 or 03 unit and cost me all of $12 shipped off ebay. The mounting spread is identical to the stock FZR MC. To make this MC work, you have to dissasemble both the R1 and FZR MCs and swap the FZR plunger/stud into the R1. Its longer and is necessary to use it. Disassembly is quite easy, one nut and a snap ring. I wanted to keep the cleaner prettier R1 clevis, but it was too short. I did need to drill out the clevis slightly to fit the stud on the lever since it was larger than stock. My rearsets had mounting holes in the right location, but not the right size, which wasnt a big deal for me, actually it worked out better. Instead of using bolts with a nut to hold the MC on, I was able to drill and tap the holes and screw a bolt directly to the rearset. If they had been predrilled, the hole would be too big to tap. The only thing I didnt like about that was that now I have bare aluminum where it was tapped. If it was machined that way to begin with, the threads would be anodized and better protected. This configuration did not have provisions for the brake light switch, so instead I used a hydraulic switch that I picked up at the local stealership for about $20. It replaces the banjo bolt on the MC and lights the brake light when it detects pressure in the line. This switch was a direct replacement and only required splicing the harness connector on. If I remember correctly(its been over a year) and I may be wrong, the stock hose banjo fitting had a different angle to it and would not bolt straight up or perhaps it was from the raised boss next to the banjo bolt on the R1 MC. I ended up using a FZR1000 braided hose(banjo fitting on one end, threaded AN fitting on the other) and used a aftermarket AN to banjo fitting(straight) from the local speed shop.
This MC was about 95% bolt on with these rearsets, and with some very minor changes to the rearset design, it could be totally bolt on, only requiring the plunger swap. Its actually more difficult to mount on stock mounts due to a raised boss on the backside near the banjo bolt, but this doesnt interfere with these rearsets. I also had to come up with a mounting location for the reservoir. I ended up using a mount on my R1 subframe, you're on your own with a stock subframe. And the hose between the reservoir actually has a size transition in the middle, so you cant really make a custom length replacement(I looked for a steel braided replacement, but couldnt find a good option) that doesnt look aweful and reservoir mounting is limited. I bet zip ties could do it and be hidden on a stock fzr with the big tail fairings.
I really dont know how much of an improvement it makes and I dont really care. The stock MC was fine for me and I used it pretty regularly only for habits sake(thanks MSF!) but it did lock up a few times. I'll admit I swapped it more for the brembo logo and just for the sake of upgrading like everything else on my bike. If I could upgrade it, I did. It also allowed me to use an anodized reservoir cap to match my front one, which made me happy. But Im sure that between the new MC, the braided line I added, and new sintered pads my rear brake performance has increased. But note that I am still running a stock FZR/YZF caliper on a YZF rotor.(Calipers are same PN, rotors are same except for crossdrill pattern)
From a mfg standpoint it should only take the correct sized threaded holes to make this one work.
Here's the stocker disassembled
Here's the finished R1 with FZR stud.
R1 MC, hydraulic switch, ss braided hose on these rearsets
On a side note: to those interested in these rearsets who are running or plan to run a YZF swingarm, these rearsets can have some interference issues with the wider swingarm. The MC stud had to be trimmed on mine and I can only use a few lof the lowest and farthest forward adjustments for the pegs. This is perfectly comfortable for me though. It took some work to make them fit perfectly, but was able to accomplish that without too much effort, nothing that was more complicated or involved than the swingarm swap itself.
Overall I absolutely love these rearsets and wouldnt trade them for anything else thats available as bolt on right now. I would recommend them to anyone and cannot thank China Racer enough for the value he offered as well as the extra effort he put in to help me out when I ordered mine. In addition, the rearsets came with spare pegs and linkages which is a huge value in itself.
JUMP ON THIS!!!
I got a set from the first run and I love them. I actually really like the heel guard design, especially compared to stock. It gives it a racy custom look IMO. The quility is definately there and the price is right for what you get. Upgrading to a more modern MC is pretty easy though. Im running a Brembo R1 rear MC. I think its a 02 or 03 unit and cost me all of $12 shipped off ebay. The mounting spread is identical to the stock FZR MC. To make this MC work, you have to dissasemble both the R1 and FZR MCs and swap the FZR plunger/stud into the R1. Its longer and is necessary to use it. Disassembly is quite easy, one nut and a snap ring. I wanted to keep the cleaner prettier R1 clevis, but it was too short. I did need to drill out the clevis slightly to fit the stud on the lever since it was larger than stock. My rearsets had mounting holes in the right location, but not the right size, which wasnt a big deal for me, actually it worked out better. Instead of using bolts with a nut to hold the MC on, I was able to drill and tap the holes and screw a bolt directly to the rearset. If they had been predrilled, the hole would be too big to tap. The only thing I didnt like about that was that now I have bare aluminum where it was tapped. If it was machined that way to begin with, the threads would be anodized and better protected. This configuration did not have provisions for the brake light switch, so instead I used a hydraulic switch that I picked up at the local stealership for about $20. It replaces the banjo bolt on the MC and lights the brake light when it detects pressure in the line. This switch was a direct replacement and only required splicing the harness connector on. If I remember correctly(its been over a year) and I may be wrong, the stock hose banjo fitting had a different angle to it and would not bolt straight up or perhaps it was from the raised boss next to the banjo bolt on the R1 MC. I ended up using a FZR1000 braided hose(banjo fitting on one end, threaded AN fitting on the other) and used a aftermarket AN to banjo fitting(straight) from the local speed shop.
This MC was about 95% bolt on with these rearsets, and with some very minor changes to the rearset design, it could be totally bolt on, only requiring the plunger swap. Its actually more difficult to mount on stock mounts due to a raised boss on the backside near the banjo bolt, but this doesnt interfere with these rearsets. I also had to come up with a mounting location for the reservoir. I ended up using a mount on my R1 subframe, you're on your own with a stock subframe. And the hose between the reservoir actually has a size transition in the middle, so you cant really make a custom length replacement(I looked for a steel braided replacement, but couldnt find a good option) that doesnt look aweful and reservoir mounting is limited. I bet zip ties could do it and be hidden on a stock fzr with the big tail fairings.
I really dont know how much of an improvement it makes and I dont really care. The stock MC was fine for me and I used it pretty regularly only for habits sake(thanks MSF!) but it did lock up a few times. I'll admit I swapped it more for the brembo logo and just for the sake of upgrading like everything else on my bike. If I could upgrade it, I did. It also allowed me to use an anodized reservoir cap to match my front one, which made me happy. But Im sure that between the new MC, the braided line I added, and new sintered pads my rear brake performance has increased. But note that I am still running a stock FZR/YZF caliper on a YZF rotor.(Calipers are same PN, rotors are same except for crossdrill pattern)
From a mfg standpoint it should only take the correct sized threaded holes to make this one work.
Here's the stocker disassembled
Here's the finished R1 with FZR stud.
R1 MC, hydraulic switch, ss braided hose on these rearsets
On a side note: to those interested in these rearsets who are running or plan to run a YZF swingarm, these rearsets can have some interference issues with the wider swingarm. The MC stud had to be trimmed on mine and I can only use a few lof the lowest and farthest forward adjustments for the pegs. This is perfectly comfortable for me though. It took some work to make them fit perfectly, but was able to accomplish that without too much effort, nothing that was more complicated or involved than the swingarm swap itself.
Overall I absolutely love these rearsets and wouldnt trade them for anything else thats available as bolt on right now. I would recommend them to anyone and cannot thank China Racer enough for the value he offered as well as the extra effort he put in to help me out when I ordered mine. In addition, the rearsets came with spare pegs and linkages which is a huge value in itself.
Re: REARSETS
Has anyone heard any more about these being made?
Re: REARSETS
last i knew, we were still waiting for more people to sign up
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Re: REARSETS - Finally inhand!
Ok Guys I finally got these things picked up yesterday and have them in hand. Sorry the anodizer held up the whole process.
But I got them now.
All those who wanted them can take a look at the pics and see I have them.
My paypal is srlinprc@yahoo.com
I will write up a seperate and clean thread with pics on how to assemble and disassemble.
If you have not sent me your address and phone number now would be the time to PM me with it. If you already have then Ihave it and no need to resend.
Thansk
Steve
But I got them now.
All those who wanted them can take a look at the pics and see I have them.
My paypal is srlinprc@yahoo.com
I will write up a seperate and clean thread with pics on how to assemble and disassemble.
If you have not sent me your address and phone number now would be the time to PM me with it. If you already have then Ihave it and no need to resend.
Thansk
Steve
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Re: REARSETS
mrfreeze5 wrote:To anyone considering these:
JUMP ON THIS!!!........
Overall I absolutely love these rearsets and wouldnt trade them for anything else thats available as bolt on right now. I would recommend them to anyone and cannot thank China Racer enough for the value he offered as well as the extra effort he put in to help me out when I ordered mine. In addition, the rearsets came with spare pegs and linkages which is a huge value in itself.
Mr Freeze thanks for this write up. I see now why you wanted the red pegs I had anodized for you.
Please note due to the swing arm swaps that are so popular I also added a set of spacers to go behind the mounting plate and bring themout a bit to lessen any interfearance. i had to use these on my swing arm swap as well.
Also when I was at teh shop I noticed John had a few black replacement parts for anyone who bought a black set. extra levers foot pegs etc..
I can write up a list if anyone wnats of what is avaialble.
I have only recieved two replies since I postd that I have these ready to go.
Pleae reply if you stil want them via a PM.
Thanks Steve
- abs929cbrrr
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Re: REARSETS
they look so cute together haha
02 xr200r set up for XC
96 trx300ex set up for XC
im roadbike less!!!!!!
96 trx300ex set up for XC
im roadbike less!!!!!!
Re: REARSETS
PM sent
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Re: REARSETS
I should have the tutorial for these done by the end of the day. but just so your not Jones'en
Here they are disassembled and in the shape you will receive them.
Note the shift/brake levers are in a upward pitch.
At the top of the pick you can see the exrta foot peg, shift peg shift rod and there are some spacers between the rear set parts.
4 of the spacers are for the guys who need to have the sets out more for their swapped swingarms and one in case you nee a specer between the shift parts iprovide and that do-hicky thing that attaches to the spline on the engine
Disclaimer - "do -hicky" is a highly technical turn and should only be used my profesionals or under adult supervision
Here are the sets with the levers reversed so they are pitched downward. I kind of like this look the more I look at it.
Yeah I do like it looking this way while these are anodized you can still hit it with what ever it is you use to make then shine up. I use mothers but its all I have over here. and I had to bring it back myself a year ago one one of my state side trips.
OK SO NOW THAT YOU HAVE A BETTER LOOK AT THEM.... IF YOU PREVIOUSLY COMMITED TO BUYING A SET PELASE DROP ME A PM SO I CAN GET YORS SENT OUT ASAP. THANKS
OH AND I HAVE TWO EXTRA SETS FOR THOSE WHO DID NOT RESERVE THEIRS BUT HAVE DECIDED THEY NOW WOULD LIKE A SET. FIRST COME FIRST SERVE BASIS
Here they are disassembled and in the shape you will receive them.
Note the shift/brake levers are in a upward pitch.
At the top of the pick you can see the exrta foot peg, shift peg shift rod and there are some spacers between the rear set parts.
4 of the spacers are for the guys who need to have the sets out more for their swapped swingarms and one in case you nee a specer between the shift parts iprovide and that do-hicky thing that attaches to the spline on the engine
Disclaimer - "do -hicky" is a highly technical turn and should only be used my profesionals or under adult supervision
Here are the sets with the levers reversed so they are pitched downward. I kind of like this look the more I look at it.
Yeah I do like it looking this way while these are anodized you can still hit it with what ever it is you use to make then shine up. I use mothers but its all I have over here. and I had to bring it back myself a year ago one one of my state side trips.
OK SO NOW THAT YOU HAVE A BETTER LOOK AT THEM.... IF YOU PREVIOUSLY COMMITED TO BUYING A SET PELASE DROP ME A PM SO I CAN GET YORS SENT OUT ASAP. THANKS
OH AND I HAVE TWO EXTRA SETS FOR THOSE WHO DID NOT RESERVE THEIRS BUT HAVE DECIDED THEY NOW WOULD LIKE A SET. FIRST COME FIRST SERVE BASIS