PROJECT DOKE

[venari]

Managed to cut a deal with the seller of the shock and stig offered me a better price than I was expecting for the full kit so I've placed my orders.

Although the spacer specs confuse me:

1. A 600 has a 12mm bolt but the R6 uses a 10mm bolt - so the suggested solution is a spacer with a 10mm hole in it which steps down from 20mm to 12mm...

2. A 400 has a 10mm bolt and the R6 uses a 10mm bolt - so the suggested solution is a spacer with a 10mm hole in it which is half the width and 20mm in dia...

3. Stig says the 400 also uses a 12mm bolt - so the suggested solution is a spacer with a 12mm hole in it which is half the width and 20mm in dia...

[willandrip]

The spacers are needed because the top mount of the R6 shock is narrower than Fzr models...depending on which model Fzr is being upgraded bolt dia. are also different.
The top hat spacers remedy both scenarios...you have to specify which spacers you require...

You would know this if you read the article I linked ......

[venari]

I have read it; over and over again - I am still convinced the info on that thread is wrong.

I've ordered the spacers and dogbones to my own measurements - not what it says on the thread.

I'll let you know how I get on with fitting it and if it works I'll put my own measurements on here for future readers.

[willandrip]

I meant if you had read it then you would suss each model has different specs.

The bikes in the USA that article was based on are different in many ways to Jap spec "grey" units imported to UK .

[venari]

Ok, that makes sense now.

My FZR 400 1WG (Grey) has a 12mm top bolt on the suspension linkage rather than a 10mm.

I am unable to remove the bolt between the lower linkage and the shock. I have tried oiling, whacking, heating, whacking, heating, whacking, whacking, whacking and clamping but it still will not budge. The bolt turns freely but I believe the spacer tube has corroded to the bolt so badly they are now inseparable. I've considered the use of a grinder but that wont actually help because it is not the bolt heads preventing it from coming free. Removing the heads may allow me to bend the shock fork off the linkage but the linkage would still be unusable.

Linkages are available on ebay for £15 posted but it seems a waste when there's one right in front of me!

On the plus side; with all that heating and hitting all the other bearings in the linkage have fallen out on their own. I assume I can get new ones of these too...

[willandrip]

Can you not cut the shock fork and bolt ends off in small pieces leaving just the shank in the linkage.
The shank and spacer should then press out.

A pic. would be good...I cannot recall the Genesis set up.

I see you have not learnt your lesson with wacking yet....brute force is rarely good for m/c parts ...Lol.

Dont lose the special shaped spacers that align and seal the inner seals

Looking at the fiche there is no inner spacer tube..just the bearing.

[venari]

Yep, still not learnt... I know - although I have preserved the bolt and the shaped spacers so far...

Seems physically impossible that it can still be stuck in there!

I can go one better than a photo, here's a link to a video.

https://youtu.be/tdvZ2Fx2cHY

I have tried heating it again today and applying more penetrating oil but the thing just wont budge.

Anyway, whilst I was waiting for the bolt to cool again I was cleaning the rest of the bike up. Got the jizer out and it's made a world of difference. Messy job though...

[venari]

Plenty of online bearing stockists.
IIRC..CMSL lists the bearing size on the fiche page if you go to details..use that sizing to order the new bearings from a bearing supplier.

I cant see the bearing sizes on CMSNL. It doesn't list the 1WG model either so not sure how much to trust it.

All I get is this:


Trying to work out if these specs will work for my bike:
http://www.fzrarchives.com/ipb/index.ph ... ntry490716

[TomcatMJ]

Here in Germany theres a company (Presto) who combined cooling spray with rust remover which might be helpful for removing the bolt...guess in your country there should be a smiliar spray available which combines both indigredients...

[willandrip]

Here is the link for the Model you want.....see the detail on the s/a and some other pages such as the rear seat that denotes the model ...
http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fzr400u-198 ... partslist/

When you open the Swing Arm schematic...

Say bearing 23 on the list; Open the product page.

Get the Yamaha number...product number: 9339999919

Do a google.....= https://www.google.co.uk/search?num=30& ... VMAiGnZFNI

Pick a post....= http://www.fzrarchives.com/ipb/index.ph ... opic=60270

Also by inserting a dash in the correct place (as cmsl omits them deliberately) you get a much broader search =
https://www.google.co.uk/search?num=30& ... e3J4V_6TjU



Read and absorb.

Bearing specs are easily worked out if you DONT destroy the old ones and can use a vernier.

[willandrip]

Trying to work out if these specs will work for my bike:
http://www.fzrarchives.com/ipb/index.ph ... ntry490716

The bearings will be correct if the part numbers match..
IIRC the suspension rocker is identical between 3HE,400 Genesis,3EN1 and 2...

I DO know it changes at 3TJ inception.

[venari]

Thanks again guys, the knowledge on this forum is phenomenal.

I've owned other unusual machines in the past and really struggled with trying to find out the simplest bits of info for them. It's great people still have such a passion for these bikes that they donate their time to help the less mechanically minded (like me) to look after them!

Anyway, willandrip I think you may appreciate the thought process behind this website:
http://lmgtfy.com/

It's crazy that you can go to CMSNL to find the part number but then have to google back through to this forum (or fzrarchives) to find an old post which refers to the bearing sizes!

If I get time I might try to find the sizes for all of the bearings on my bike and post them here as an easier reference for people in the future.

Thanks TomcatMJ, that Presto Kalteschock (Cold Shock) looks like good stuff. There is a manufacturer that sells a similar product on UK ebay BUT it costs more than importing a can of Presto from Germany!

[TomcatMJ]

Attention,there are 2 sorts of cold shock sparys,one (down to -30 ° C) with rust remover and one without (down to -50° C)..maybe the temperature itself solves the problem,but i prefer for some actions the combined ones results

Edit: Thats the one i mentioned: https://www.amazon.de/Presto-K%C3%A4lte ... B00HYMX2OI

[venari]

Finally arrived!



Now I just need to get those pesky bearings sorted so I can fit and begin putting the bike back together.

[willandrip]

Yerr...looks the part doesn't it ?.
Far,far better than the original.

You said £135 to upgrade...its nowt for the technology you are upgrading to.

You will need to modify the shock bottom mount with a grinder/disc and flap wheel to clear the rocker knuckle.

Use a lead pencil to mark the intended shape and just keep whittling away until you have clearance.
This is the dirtiest part of the conversion even though you do it on the bench.



Invest in the correct tool to alter spring preload when mounted rather than chewing up your shiny new shock



I did have the base settings for the adjustments to the upgraded shock in the garage that I was going to post up for you when you got to this stage.....but after inspecting the notes that are hung with a clip on the window today found that all notes have been bleached away by the sunlight.That is what happens when you don't inspect stuff for 3...4 years Lol.

Search for the R6 06 owners manual on line...I am pretty sure that is where I got the initial settings from and then adjusted to compensate for the different mass and slightly different geometry.
Somewhere in the upper 2/3rds of all settings was very near for me..13st rider..fast road.
Familiarise yourself with the adjusters and how they feel (count clicks) on the bench.
Take notes of your initial test setting and only alter one parameter at a time until you find what suits.
Legion are the tales of woe from those who twiddle all the adjustment at once and pogo stick into the scenery at the first fast bend.
DO NOT force any of the screw adjustments once mounted...You have been warned.

Problem is .....you will want to upgrade the front forks next.


Does it ever stop ?


Never !