Buying FZR1000 with busted transmission

[Void]

Hey all,

I am interested in buying an '89 FZR1000. I found one for quite cheap, listed here: http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/pml/mpo/5250446198.html

How viable would it be for me, someone with little knowledge of motorcycles/engines, to fix this up? I have a lot of time, all I need is information and resources. I was hoping you all could help me out.

Would it be easier to replace the engine entirely? or just replace the transmission.

Thanks!

E

[Stig]

Trams is a full engine strip. Price depends on parts required plus gasket set a dif you wish to check other items are up to spec whilst you're in there... Certainly pays to check the starter sprag clutch and anything else which requires the bottom end splitting for access
Other considerations depend on what you can pick up a good s/h engine for and if swapping engine numbers out bothers you about keeping originality

[Void]

Could I switch the 1000 engine with a 600? How hard would that be?

[TomcatMJ]

The 600s Motor is ways to small to fit..you can put in a yzf 750 Motor or a Thunderace Motor which wil need 2 Adapterplates for fitting the mountingpoints at the cylinderhead.
For the transmission a (here in Europe) common Mod is to put in a transmission from the yzf 750 (and as a result you would have the 6 gears of the YZF Motor instead of the 5 of the original FZR Motor )...
By the way: If it's a question of availability of Motors in your Area there are a lot of cargocompanies which explicitely also transport Motors from or to other countries(but don't forget the custom costs then which will add to the shipping costs), and here in Europe the FZR 1000, Thunderace or YZF 740 Motors are not soo rare, costs between 300 and 900 € depending on the milage they've already run, sometimes you might get already completely overhauled ones to a reasonable price ...

Edit:Example from the german FZR-Forum (actually in the Market-Area there available): Thunderace Motor, second Hand, pervious owner born in 1957 (so mostly not a racer-guy), motor has run around 60.000 km (1 mile ~ 1,6 km), valve clearance adjustment has been done 4.000 km ago, costs 400 € without shipment(clickable Link here) ...
Another ace motor there available via the german FZR-Forum (where i'm the technical Admin ) has run around 48.000, also adjusted valve clearancejob already done and modified with the 6 gear transmission (done by our Motorspecialist MathiasH from the german FZR-Forum) from the yzf 750 for 500 € whithout shipment costs(clickable Link here) ...
Most guys there don't have problems to ship Parts if they get the cash including shipmentcosts in advance (even if they need sometimes hints about with what company they should send ist )...

[rgmr250]

Funny, I just saw this posting. I bought the bike Oct 5, 2015. I found a used transmissions (gears, shift drum and shift forks) for $80 USD on eBay. Over the winter, I've been slowly working on it. It had coolant in the oil, so I ordered a new head gasket - Dealer ordered the wrong part, then said the head gasket isn't available, ordered one from ebay, they the seller came back saying he couldn't get it, so I ended up ordering one from Poland via eBay, so there was a good 1.5 months of waiting with all that happening. It's back together and in the bike now. My first few tries at starting it have resulted in turning over, but no firing. I have fuel at the carbs, so I'm going to check for spark, and if getting spark, I'll pull the valve cover and double-check that I got the cams oriented right... If no spark, then I guess I'll start double-checking all the wiring. Not a lot of info out there about these bikes.

This one was (badly) repainted by the previous owner in Yellow. If it runs and rides well, I'll likely re-do the paint and get a decal kit and bring it back to original spec. I got a spare gas tank, spare clutch and basket, spare front brake rotors and calipers, plus some other spare parts with the bike. Also, the bike has an Ohlins rear shock in it! The front springs appear to have been changed, as the bike came with two sets of fork springs, but I'm not certain if they are originals or not.

[rgmr250]

So, no spark. It started and ran before I took it apart to fix the transmission, so I've started by re-checking all the electrical connections and anything else that was touched as part of the process. Anything else I should look at/check?

[Stig]

Sounds a bit obvious but have you checked the kill switch???

Also check side stand switch

[rgmr250]

Sounds a bit obvious but have you checked the kill switch???

Also check side stand switch

Always worth noting/checking, but I've checked the kill switch. I tried putting the bike upright and pulling up the kickstand (although, if the wire isn't connected/broken etc. this may not make any difference) and trying to start it to no avail. When I turn the key, the instrument cluster lights up, fuel pump runs for a few seconds, brake light etc. works. I hit the starter and the engine turns over, but won't start. I pulled plug #1, and have it touching the head so it's grounded, and plugged into the plug wire, but get no spark when I crank it.

Some bikes won't turn over when the kill switch is off and /or the side stand is down and you're not in neutral. Anybody know if this bike will turn over when you hit the starter if the kill switch is off, or the side stand switch is not working - knowing this makes for some easier troubleshooting? On some bikes, the kill switch actually is several switches inside and just because one of the functions of the kill switch appears to be operating correctly, doesn't mean that others are. On my Goldwing, for example, the starter switch controls the headlight turning off when cranking, and of course triggering the starter, and there's 2 physical switches inside, so one can be working and the other isn't.

I have the neutral light lighting up. I'll double-check the side-stand switch. Since it ran before, I'll focus first on the stuff that I've touched with the engine removal. When I first got the bike, it took a bit to get it started - I fiddled with kill switch, side stand, going into neutral etc. a bit before it eventually fired up. Then it would start fairly easily - I wanted to make sure the engine would run before I took it apart to fix the transmission.

[rgmr250]

I may not be reading the wiring diagram correctly, and it's been a long time since I first got the bike, and only started it a couple of times, but it appears that you need these things before you can start the bike:
1. Key on
2. Kill switch off
3. transmission in Neutral
4. Clutch pulled in
5. Sidestand up
6. Oil level switch looks like it may be part of the system as well, as it goes through the diode block?

I don't recall needing to have the sidestand up, and don't recall having to have the clutch pulled in either (I do recall my Suzuki DL650 wouldn't start without the clutch pulled in, no matter what, though.)

Does it really need to be in neutral AND clutch in AND sidestand up to start - sidestand doesn't make sense to me unless you're not in neutral (probably me just not reading the wiring diagram flow correctly.)

[Stig]

It should start In neutral with the stand down and without the clutch pulled in
I sometimes fire mine up like that when working on the clutch side

[willandrip]

The oil level light is wired via the starter circuit.

This is by means of a test to show the bulb/circuit is functional.
If there was no test there would be no means to tell if the circuit had failed and could lead to catastrophe..

If a FZR motorcycle turns over with the starter and does not start there is something wrong elsewhere....carbs/ ignition/compression related.
It is nothing to do with a safety circuit.
A safety circuit problem prevents the starter being supplied with power.

[rgmr250]

So, my brother was in town so we could go to the Vancouver motorcycle show yesterday, so last night we went through all the troubleshooting for the no spark situation. Everything checks out, but no spark. So, we try his 'redneck spark check method' as he calls it - a screwdriver into plug wire 1 and a screwdriver into plug wire #4, then hold the insulated end and keep the shaft of the screwdriver close to the frame, crank it over and there's spark. I didn't realize that with a wasted spark setup, if one plug is bad and won't fire, it will cause the other plug on the same coil to not fire - so if you have 2 fouled plugs, 1 or 4 and 2 or 3, then you'll get no spark at all.) So, the plugs must be bad/fouled. They were brand new in the fall when I bought the bike, ran the bike for a few minutes to make sure it ran before tearing it apart. Trying to start it with old gas must have fouled the plugs (never had fouled plugs before, but there's a first for everything.) So, I picked up new plugs. Still wouldn't start, so I let it sit and tried again, after a few cranks, it fired for 1/2 second, then more cranking with no firing. I'll charge the battery some more and then try again later. I'm more confident that it will run, since it at least fired once for me.

[willandrip]

One fouled or defective plug will not prevent the other plug from firing .

Remove all 4 plug caps and short the leads directly to the engine.

[kolederacer]

Are you sure you have the coils wired correctly and its not sparking on the wrong cylinders?
Also have you tried to spray a small amount of gas straight in?

[rgmr250]

One fouled or defective plug will not prevent the other plug from firing .

Remove all 4 plug caps and short the leads directly to the engine.

I don't want to disagree with you, but my brother has been a mechanic for 30 years and I trust what he says, and he said that in a wasted spark setup, when two cylinders share the same coil, one fouled/bad plug can cause the other plug (on the same coil) to not fire. I replaced the plugs and after a bit of cranking got it to fire, but only once. Before replacing the plugs, it wouldn't fire at all.

I do appreciate the assistance, though.