So I was going about 75mph off a quick acceleration in first probably put it to 9k or so went into second and pulled on the clutch for 3rd and it was insanley soft...so much so that i immediatley pulled over and and tried to figure out what the hell was going on...i barley limp it home... when I grab the lever all the way to the bar I am able to just keep it from dying but you release the lever less than a quarter of a mm and it's lurching I have to be mashing on the gas from a start there is no longer a "friction zone" just "GO"?
1. I have removed the clutch cable entirely hoping that was the problem...removed it from the sleeve and there is not a single fray on the entire damn cable
2. I have drained the oil
3. Have taken only the clutch cover off now seeking what to look for from you! (my bad)
Have also taken a look at the trans write-up under the fzr 600 section...
Thanks
Last edited by Crash on Wed Aug 13, 2008 7:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
i would say your problem is gonna be either the pressure plate in the clutch or the puch lever that pushes the rod to disengage the clutch but im pretty shure its you clutch. if its moving than im gonna say its a problem with the disengagement section the lever that pushes the rod to disengage the clutch is under the sprocket cover.
ones life is the way it is only because you allow it make it happen.
i poop my pants i poop my pants
When you loosen the clutch nut you will need something to hold the clutch. REMOVAL
1. Remove the lower fairings on both sides.
2. Drain the oil.
3. Remove the drive sprocket cover.
4. Using a criss cross pattern, loosen then remove the bolts securing the clutch cover. Remove the cover and gasket, don't loose the locating dowels.
5. Loosen the 6 pressure plate screws in a criss cross pattern. Then remove the screws and springs.
6. Remove the pressure plate.
7. Remove all of the clutch plates, has notches on the outside, and friction discs, has notches on the inside. Stack the plates and discs in order of removal.
8. Remove the short pushrod from the end of the transmission shaft.
9. Using a magnet, pull the steel ball out of the end of the trasmission main shaft.
10. Straighten out the locking tab on the locknut.
Note: To keep the clutch housing from turning when removing the clutch hub nut in Step 11, use a "Grabbit" tool, or equivalent.
11. Loosen, then remove the clutch nut.
12. Slide off the lock washer.
13. Remove the clutch boss.
14. Slide off the grooved thrust washer.
15. Use a dental tool or pick and withdraw the spacer and then the bearing from the center of the clutch housing.
16. Move the clutch housing over to one side to clear the crankcase and remove the clutch housing.
17. Slide the thrust washer and collar off the transmission shaft.
18. Pull the long pushrod out of the transmission main shaft tunnel.
INSPECTION
1. Clean all clutch parts in petroleum-based solvent such as commercial solvent or kerosene and thoroughly dry with compressed air.
2. Measure the free length of each clutch spring. 5 springs, standard length is 35 mm or 1.32 in.; Minimum length is 32.6 mm or 1.28 in. Replace any springs that have sagged to the service limit or less.
3. Measure the thickness of each friction disc at several places around the disc. 9 discs, standard thickness is 2.9-3.1 mm or 0.1142-0.1220 in; minimum 2.8 mm or 0.11 in. Replace any discs that have worn to the service limit or less.
4. Measure the thickness of each clutch plate at several places around the plate. 8 plates, standard thickness is 1.8-2.2 mm or 0.072-0.085 in. Replace any plates that are worn. Yamaha does not provide wear limit specifications for the clutch plates.
5. Check the clutch plates for warpage on a surface plate such as a piece of plate glass. Warp limit minimum is 2.8 mm or 0.11 in. Replace any plate that is warped to the service limit or more.
6. Inspect the clutch housing for the folowing:
a. Check the fingers for cracks, nicks or galling where they come in contact with the friction dics tabs. They must be smooth for chatter free operation. If any severe damage is evident, the components should be replaced.
b. Check the outer gear and the oil pump drive gear for tooth wear, damage or cracks. Replace the clutch housing if necessary.
c. Inspect the damping springs for breakage or wear. Replace the clutch housing if necessary.
d. Check the center bearing bore for cracks, deep scoring, excessive wear or heat discoloration. If the bearing bore is damaged, also check the clutch bearing and bearing spacer for damage. Replace worn or damaged parts.
7. Inspect the clutch boss for the following:
a. Check the grooves for cracks, nicks or galling where they come in contact with the friction dics tabs. They must be smooth for chatter free operation. If any severe damage is evident, the components must be replaced.
b. Inspect the posts for wear or galling. If any severe damage is evident, the components must be replaced.
c. Inspect the inner splines for damage. Remove any small nicks with an oilstone. If damage is severe, the clutch boss must be replaced.
8. Inspect the posts and grooves in the pressure plate. If they show signs of cracks, wear or galling the pressure plate should be replaced.
9. Inspect the long pushrod for bending or damage. If the pushrod is bent to the limit of 1.28 mm or 0.020 in., it will hang up in the transmission shaft tunnel. Replace rod if necessary.
10. Inspect the short push rod where it contacts the long pushrod and push lever assembly. Inspect the O-ring seal for wear and hardness or discoloration. Replace the O-ring if it's condition is doubtful.
11. Check the grooved thrust washer for galling or damage, replace if necessary.
12. Inspect the spacer, thrust washer and collar for wear or damage and replace if necessary.
