Just bought 92' FZR 600

[4wred]

I've seen them on ebay for 25.00 to 45.00,I wouldn't waste my time with that tank.

[Lorenzai]

I bought a tank off eBay that is very very clean inside. Now I just have to wait the few days for it to get here. In the meantime my friend tig welded the holes closed, and then we jb welded over the entire corner near the petcock. Haha. Hope it holds up for a few days. ( I'm impatient!)

[Lorenzai]

Hey guys I have a question. Do emulsion tubes need to be lubricated? Sorry for the stupid question.

[DonTZ125]

No, they're part of the carburetor fuel metering system. Any lubricant would be quickly dissolved and washed away.

[Lorenzai]

So I'm at a loss now. The carb was cleaned thoroughly, and I replaced the plugs. Gapped to .030-.032. It revs to about 7.5k now. It is most definitely making more power, I accidently pulled the front wheel up shifting from 1st into 2nd. Its better but it isn't there where I want it.

[Lorenzai]

The only thing I can think of is that the stator is weak, or the voltage regulator is bleeding off too much voltage. I noticed last night when you rev the motor that the headlight dims a little bit. Not a lot, but if you're paying attention you can see it. I'm still getting 13.9V at idle but it drops some as revs get higher. It doesn't sound like a stator to me for that reason. Should I throw a voltage regulator at it?

[willandrip]

An uprated R/R would be an investment and preventative measure for the future.

Regardless if it does not solve the current problem....it would at least remove it from the equation.

You may have a coil breaking down at higher rpm under load but I would still suspect the carbs.

Most owners find they begin to amass numerous spares such as R/R ,TCI, a coil or two, even a spare carb bank and a fuel pump.

The aid they provide to diagnose running problems and having good known units in stock to replace failed parts far outweighs the initial cost.

[Lorenzai]

Ok, ill keep that in mind. So, what about the carbs do you suspect the problem is? They may very well be slightly out of sync, but I've read that being out of sync causes more low rpm annoyance that sort of goes away as the rpm climbs. The caps are still over the mixture screws as my friend told me not to screw with those. I don't know if those screws change the afr (air fuel ratio) across the board or only at idle.

[willandrip]

Still having the anti-tamper caps on the mixture setting is a very good sign....it usually means the carbs have not been to bits numerous times.

It is at idle and upwards slightly that they effect running so may be ignored at present I believe.
Unsynced carbs will not be totally responsible for this symptom.

The reason I state carbs( and should have included airbox/filter/inlet manifolds) is because in over 70% of cases it is those that cause such symptoms and may be easily overhauled by the owner without a large tool inventory.

Electrical items that only fail at higher rpm ranges under load can only really be tested by substitution with good known replacements....hence the previous post.

[Lorenzai]

Hmm. Well I know that the airbox is installed properly with the boots all the way over the carb mouths, and the clamps are as tight as they go. I do have the carb vacuum lines hooked up to the airbox the way that the previous owner had it. There are two white fittings on the carbs, one between carb 1&2, and another between 3&4. Those fittings both have a vacuum line running from them and they meet at a 't' fitting, from the 't' fitting the now single vacuum line runs to the bottom left corner of the airbox. I assumed this was correct, but now I'm not sure because i think I saw a post where people were not running theirs like that.

Edited* So I found a thread on another forum, and it looks like those tubes are incorrectly connected. That tube on the left side of the airbox is a liquid drain, not a vacuum port. It either needs to be capped off or have a 1 way check valve install. Since I don't plan on Baja'ing my bike through any rivers and such I'm going to just cap it off. The white nozzles on the carbs, I just learned, are float bowl overflow fittings and aren't supposed to be connected to the intake. It is my thinking now that with my intake pulling vacuum on the float bowls its possible that it was literally sucking the fuel out of the carbs at higher rpm. Running out of fuel is certainly one reason why I have this artificial rev limiter at the moment. I will correct these deficiencies and report back first thing.

Sorry about my grammar, I try hard to be understandable but autocorrect is just horrid on my phone and every post I've made on this forum has been on a cell phone.

[4wred]

You said the caps are still on the mixture screws.Is your exhaust stock? Where the jets the stock sizes when you cleaned the carbs?With a aftermarket exhaust the jets should have been changed and the caps removed from the mixture screws to set the a/f mixture.

[Lorenzai]

Its fixed!!! I'm ecstatic. The carb overflows were having vacuum pulled on them and in the upper rpms were having the fuel sucked out of them. I took the vacuum lines off, put a vacuum cap onto the airbox port and that's all it took. These bikes are friggin FAST. When I took it out to test it, its like a turbo kicks in at 7 grand.
Thank you willandrip for making me question the carburetors one more time. I had originally thought that it was odd that vacuum lines would run from the carbs to the intake, but I figured the previous owner knew more than I. That was a terrible assumption since when I got the bike, the carbs weren't clamped on, the airbox wasn't attached, it had the incorrect vacuum setup, the plugs might have been the factory original spark plugs, the coolant hoses were rotted out, etc. Its no wonder the dude got rid of it, he was in way over his head.

[willandrip]

Well that is a good result and has, although cost time and frustration, been a cheap fix financially but what is more
important ;you have learned considerably more of the mechanical side of your motorcycle.

Now that you are able to use the full rpm range of your bike and have found it to be possibly faster than you anticipated for a "learners" machine as you were first considering it, you now know why we were so concerned about your decision not to wear gloves.

Your next mission....should you care to accept....
Is to remove the gearchange lever mechanism after noting its exact position on the shaft splines and clean behind the casing.
Thoroughly inspect the gearbox sprocket/chain but most importantly the lockwasher and retaining nut.
When you replace the casing ;set the clutch pushrod freeplay to 1/4 turn back from lightly seated.(behind the black rubber bung.)

Unfortunately this message will not self destruct after you have read it......but I could delete it if you want.

Good luck.

[Lorenzai]

Thanks. When I referred to these bikes as not something I would recommend to total newbs, I didn't even know how fast it was yet.I tend to consider myself a fast learner. I went from not even being able to get it out of the driveway without stalling it, to two weeks later I've put 500+ miles on it. I'm actually glad that the bike had that artificial rev limiter of sorts, its like the bike was in novice mode -lol.It was more forgiving for me to learn on. Now I need to drill out those EPA brass caps because my very low rpm throttle response is a tad choppy. To what you said- I would like to see what the condition of the front sprocket is. As for the clutch, I do get quite a bit of clutch whine, especially when going slow, or downshifting into 1st or 2nd while coming to a stop. I've read the thread about the ball bearing that gets welded to the shaft in the transmission and I just keep telling myself I sure hope that ain't what makes that sound. I've heard if your transmission goes on a bike you might as well scrap the whom motor.
The sound to me sounds like some syncros that aren't happy about doing their job. Either that or 1st and 2nd gear are straight cut gears, but I doubt that seriously.

[Lorenzai]

Well I tried to do what you said, but the two hex bolts at the bottom of the case stripped out. I'm just kinda screwed..