what to replace when doing fork seals?

Cursed94FZR600 · Post by **Cursed94FZR600** » Tue May 26, 2009 9:18 pm

reelrazor do those sides wear out or are those optional to replace?

Post by **sweekster** » Tue May 26, 2009 9:19 pm

The stock 10w oil is pretty light and if you are a bigger guy like myself you'll find that the front end is a little soft and spongy. The heavier oil will help stiffen front end and make it much more stable. Short of buying new progressive or racetech springs, this along with a longer preload spacer, can help you fine tune your front end.

Cursed94FZR600 · Post by **Cursed94FZR600** » Tue May 26, 2009 9:27 pm

mk good to know. thanks

reelrazor · Post by **reelrazor** » Tue May 26, 2009 9:38 pm

Cursed94FZR600 wrote:reelrazor do those sides wear out or are those optional to replace?

They wear for sure if they run dry, and you can often see 'braking wear' in them on bikes with quite a few miles.

If they look good on inspection, don't sweat it.

They are teflon coated steel, and if the teflon is worn thru anywhere, you have metal on metal contact between the bushing and the inner fork tube-not to mention the stiction that causes.

ghettomedic505 · Post by **ghettomedic505** » Tue May 26, 2009 9:54 pm

Cursed94FZR600 wrote:better how?

sweekster already answered but it worked better cause it made the front end significantly stiffer than it was.

Cursed94FZR600 · Post by **Cursed94FZR600** » Tue May 26, 2009 10:09 pm

ok cool, so if they look like they are in good shape it's ok to leave em.

Cursed94FZR600 · Post by **Cursed94FZR600** » Wed May 27, 2009 7:08 am

i have another question i thought of last night. could i break loose the bottom bolt before draining the fork. i'm not talking all the way out but if the upper section of the fork will prevent it from rotating, do you think it would work to loosen the bottom bolt first?

reelrazor · Post by **reelrazor** » Wed May 27, 2009 7:20 am

Cursed94FZR600 wrote:i have another question i thought of last night. could i break loose the bottom bolt before draining the fork. i'm not talking all the way out but if the upper section of the fork will prevent it from rotating, do you think it would work to loosen the bottom bolt first?

Yes. See my earlier post. I have never made/used a damper rod holding tool. It's less messy to drain the fork, but you CAN do it that way.

Cursed94FZR600 · Post by **Cursed94FZR600** » Wed May 27, 2009 7:31 am

just looked back now, must have missed that little part earlier. Thanks for all the help. Now i get to wait a week and a half for the parts to get here.

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what to replace when doing fork seals?

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