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--- no_spark_now_what [2011/11/23 09:08] – adminfzr
+++ no_spark_now_what [2020/10/19 11:51] (current) – external edit 127.0.0.1
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
+<HTML><center><span style="font-size:180%;text-align:center;font-weight:bold;">It won't spark! Now what?</span>
+<BR><span style="font-size:120%;text-align:center;font-weight:bold;">by DonTZ125</span></center></HTML>\\
 I'm surprised it's taken me this long to come up with this, but I can be a lazy SOB when I (don't) put my mind to it. There have been many inquiries, here and on the Archives, from people who aren't getting a spark. The first impulse when seeing the 17th inquiry in a particular month is to cry "RTFM!", followed closely by "Use the f'n search!" With that out of my system, I will acknowledge that the manual is a) difficult to read sometimes and b) not readily to hand in all garages; that, and the search systems on both sites suck to greater and lesser degrees.
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   * Find your coils. Turn the key switch and kill switch ON. Measure the voltage (versus battery ground) to both coil low-tension inputs (Red/White wires) at the coil solder joints. Anything more than a 0.5v drop from battery voltage can cause a weak or no spark.
   * If the voltage drop is greater than 0.5 volts a likely cause is a loose or dirty ignition connector (located close to the radiator filler cap - Red and Brown wires), and / or the coil low-tension connectors. Clean and check the connectors if needed.
-Switch off!
+  * Switch off!
   * Find your coils, and unplug the low-tension connectors. Check the resistance across each coil-side connector - Red/White wire to Grey or Orange wire (1.8-2.2 ohms). Note that this is very low, and errors in the instrument can affect the reading. Be sure to zero your multimeter before taking these readings. Reconnect the coil wiring. Replace the coil if out of spec.
   * Disconnect the battery negative cable (black).