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--- installing_pd_valves_cartridge_emulators [2008/08/02 11:48] – 70.238.206.207
+++ installing_pd_valves_cartridge_emulators [2020/10/19 11:50] (current) – external edit 127.0.0.1
@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
 This is what I intend to install. They are PD Valves (Cartridge Emulators in American speak) from YSS suspension.
-{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_1.jpg?180|PD Valves}}
+{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_1.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}
 I bought mine from Greg Fairthorne of ASR suspension in Victoria Australia +61 3 5981 0165 simply because the  American dealers were hassling me over shipping/credit card and any other rubbish they could think of NOT to sell to a UK buyer.
@@ Line 8: / Line 8: @@
 Greg on the other hand took my credit card details & put the goodies in the post and 7 days later, they were gracing my desk for the above photo. In Oz speak "good on yer mate"
-{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_2.jpg?180|New Springs}}
+{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_2.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}
 To go with my new valves I decided to buy new springs. I had a funny suspicion that the springs on the bike were the original from the YAMAHA factory!
@@ Line 15: / Line 15: @@
 You will need the spring rate in Kg/mm, spring length in mm, outer diameter in mm, and the spring travel required in mm.  Other things to buy is a liter of your favorite fork oil in whatever weight has been recommended (15 in my case), new oil seals & dust caps.\\
 \\
-{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_3.jpg?180|Fork Tool}}
+{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_3.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}
-{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_4.jpg?180|Fork Tool Tip}}
+{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_4.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}
 The above photo's show the fork tool I made for removing the damper rod Allen bolt in the base of the shock.
@@ Line 23: / Line 23: @@
-{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_5.jpg?180|Fork Tool In Use}}
+{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_5.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}
-{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_6.jpg?180x135|Seal Tool}}
+{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_6.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}
 The above photo's show the seal tool I made for replacing the fork seals squarely in one smooth move.
 It is a piece of steel pipe 19.5" long & a 40mm bore. The business end MUST be burr free.
-Place the seal on the inner tube with the inner tube fully compressed in to the outer fork tube. Slide the tool over the inner tube and allow the weight of the tool to push the seal in place.
+Place the seal on the inner tube with the inner tube fully compressed in to the outer fork tube. Slide the tool over the inner tube and allow the weight of the tool to push the seal in place.\\
+\\
 **Well that is enough about the prep & tooling required**
 As most of you are aware the FZR is a pigs ear of a bike to work on! It has NO center stand & no Lift bobbins on the swing arm ! To work on my bike I removed ALL the fairings,
-{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_7.jpg?180|}}{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_8.jpg?180|}}
+{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_7.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_8.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}
 I then used a spigot type front race paddock stand
-{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_9.jpg?180|}}
+{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_9.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}
 and then used a ratchet tie down strap over a roof purlin ( an alloy ladder in this case). Attaching the two hook ends to the passenger hand hold bolted to the rear sub frame & richeting the whole bike up so the back wheel was level off the ground to the front wheel.
-{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_10.jpg?180|}}
+{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_10.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}
 well with the front off the ground the brake calipers were removed from the fork lowers. With them out of the way the Front axle can be unscrewed.
@@ Line 51: / Line 51: @@
 With the bars off the removal of each fork tube can be done. At this point if you do not have the tools I made available you may want to slacken the allen bolts that hold the damper rod in place (if you are lucky ). You may also want to loosen the fork cap bolts whilst the top clamp is tight and acting as a vice, if that fails loosen the top clamp ONLY and try again By slackening the triple tree clinch bolts the fork will drop suddenly so a} hold them and b} mind your toes LoL.
-{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_11.jpg?180|}}
+{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_11.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}
 OK, with the forks out, hold one vertically and carefully remove the cap bolt REMEMBER this is under serious pressure from the spring !!
@@ Line 70: / Line 70: @@
 All parts should be carefully washed in White spirit & blow dried with an air line OR the Girl Friends Hair drier on COOL / COLD Setting
-===== Right so with all the bits clean and ready for use we need to start Parts Tuning & Assembly Process. =====
+**Right so with all the bits clean and ready for use we need to start Parts Tuning & Assembly Process.**
 The first thing that needs setting is the spring pre-load on the PD valves themselves. The advice given by Greg at ASR suspension was not to rely on factory preset values but start from scratch & do the set up yourself.
@@ Line 81: / Line 81: @@
 The stock damper rods are not "jetted" for the PD valves.
-{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_12.jpg|}}
+{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_12.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}
 The top one shows the stock hole (one of a pair at the same height)at the left hand (bottom in use) end
@@ Line 89: / Line 89: @@
 It is EXTREMELY important to remove all machining chips from the damper rod bores and deburr the inside and outside of each hole.
-===== Just one metal chip will kill your shocks  =====
+:!:**Just one metal chip will kill your shocks **:!:
 with the damper rods clean & modded we can place the short rebound spring back on & place them inside the inner tube and put the plastic oil stop gizmo on the end of the damper rod when it sticks out the lower end of the inner tube. Carefully place the fork outer over this inner & damper assembly, I found this very easy to do using the fork tool as it stops the damper rod moving around and losing the oil stop plug in the process. Now be sure the copper washer is in the fork bottom lock bolt hole and carefully screw the allen bolt in. Torque it up one time, also tighten down the oil drain plug.
@@ Line 99: / Line 99: @@
 The next bit is a little tricky as you need to set the spring pre-load spacer length as your original spacers will be way too long with the PD Valves in place
-{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_13.jpg|}}
+{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_13.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}
 The above pic shows the old metal spacers & the new plastic ones with the OEM self centering washers
@@ Line 117: / Line 117: @@
 I removed the fork legs after tightening the 2nd fork cap to the right torque so that i could have free access to the old oil filter as I intended whilst the bike was in the workshop to replace the old oil & filter plus the coolant of unknown ancestry. The how-to's for these operations are at:- FZR Online community
-{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_14.jpg|}}
+{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_14.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}
 **The rather nice K & N Oil filter with its handy welded top nut for installation & removal unlike the one I wrecked taking off**
@@ Line 125: / Line 125: @@
 I also received (slightly later than expected due to the lazy deliver persons the new double bubble screen from my mate Alan at Alkamto on E-bay OR Alkamoto Body work supplies Dealt with him for years and a good guy to find that odd bit of body work either S/H or replica. Top Man Alan.
-{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_15.jpg|}}
+{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_15.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}
 One of the sharp eyed workers at my mate's work shop , Tony, he of the welding skills fame, spotted that the magneto cover was not only scratched but cracked from the PO fall prior to its arrival by me.
@@ Line 141: / Line 141: @@
 That undercoat was rubbed down to a perfect finish and i then sprayed it with "Rover Gunmetal" car paint which it turned out to be a darker silver than the Yamaha version of Silver on the bike. I must admit that if I had not JUST changed the oil I would have been tempted to do the Peanut cover and the Clutch cover to match and had a rather tasty two tone silver bike. But alas I was not about to do that so I went out and bought the "Peugeot Aluminium" car paint which is as close as Dammit to the Yamaha Version
-{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_16.jpg|}}
+{{:pdvalves_catridge_emulators_16.jpg?180x180|Click to enlarge}}
 Well with the bike re-assembled I wheeled the bike outside into a hazy summer day said bye to Len {the boss}& Tony {floor chief} and rode off. Now normally I hear the front end clunking away as it makes its way over the truck size pot holes of the industrial estate but NOT this time Oh what a change.
-Out on the open road she just works, and stoppies are no longer frame jarring thuds, wheelies are are gentle returns to earth feather light at the dab of back brake.
+Out on the open road she just works, and stoppies are no longer frame jarring thuds, wheelies are gentle returns to earth feather light at the dab of back brake.
-**AHH the smile is so wide... making the helmet a hassle to remove Job done.**
+**;-)AHH the smile is so wide... making the helmet a hassle to remove Job done.;-)**
-Questions, Comments, or Suggestions: [[http://fzronline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1069|Click Here]]
+[[http://fzronline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1069|{{  :comments.gif  |CLICK HERE}}]]
 ----
-- Yamaha_George
+- Submitted by Yamaha George visit his site [[http://www.saltmine.org.uk/fzr/general.html| Saltmine.org.uk]]