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--- front_suspension_tuning [2008/06/22 13:38] – 70.255.83.192
+++ front_suspension_tuning [2020/10/19 11:50] (current) – external edit 127.0.0.1
@@ Line 88: / Line 88: @@
 We've all seen cars with bad shocks, pogoing their way down the freeway. A wheel hits a bump and compresses, then rebounds, then re-rebounds, maybe as many as three or four times. This is oscillation and it can make a car (or a bike) nearly impossible to control.
-This is where shocks (or, more correctly, spring dampers) come in. The damper is partially filled with oil which is forced through small orifices when the fork (or rear shock) compresses and rebounds. The friction of the oil through these passages retards the movement of the suspension, taking energy from the spring and transferring it to the oil as heat.
+This is where shocks (or, more correctly, spring dampers) come in. The damper is partially filled with oil which is forced through small orifices when the fork (or rear shock) compresses and rebounds. The viscous resistance of the oil through these passages retards the movement of the suspension, taking energy from the spring and transferring it to the oil as heat.
 You can get a feel for good damping by bouncing on the seat of a well-set-up Sportbike, motocrosser or racebike. Bounce on the seat and stand up immediately - you'll feel the bike rise quickly to almost full height, then slow down the last bit of travel. Often you can feel the same thing when compressing the forks. That's damping in action.
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 Oh, yeah: you should leave the zip tie on the fork leg. It will tell you if your travel changes, which will happen if you lose any fork oil... and anyway, it lets the cognoscenti know you're hip! Almost as good as tiny rubber balls on the edges of your tires.
 ===== Front Suspension: Cartridge Emulators =====
 Conventional damper-rod forks provide spring damping by forcing oil through holes in a damper rod, located inside the fork tube. The problem with this arrangement is that the resistance of oil forced through these holes varies as the square of the velocity of the oil. Which means the damping can be set up just right for slow bumps but will nearly lock up over sharp ones. This phenomenon can't be detected by bouncing on the bike, but it's obvious when riding on a rough road.
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     * Main Spring preload, recommend to start with 15mm. :!:You may need to extend this to 18mm:!:
 ~Geo. 2008-06-21
+Well i had to have my springs made (long story )Things to know when doing this :-
+ spring length = 415 mm
+The last coil on each end flattened & ground
+spring outer diameter 32mm
+spring travel = 130mm (I chose 145 to be safe from spring binding )
+spring rate Original 0.46 Kg/mm TO BE AVOIDED AS WAY TOO SOFT
+Race tech reccommend that for 180lb rider fairly aggressive riding 0.85Kg/mm
+ If you want a plusher touring ride go to 0.70 -0.80Kg/mm
+My man was :-
+Mr. Brimble +44 (0)1895 811 797 (uxbridge west of London UK ) delivery 24 Hours, and 50 Pounds sterling for credit card (cheaper for cash & collection )
 ===== Rear Suspension =====
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 Sometimes you can fit a replacement from another bike - for example, I tossed the shock on my SV and installed one from a GSXR750 which is re-buildable and has adjustable compression and rebound damping. A worthwhile change for about $200 including a new spring.
+[[http://fzronline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1094|{{  :comments.gif  |CLICK HERE}}]]
 ----
-- Original written By Jim Stewart[[http://www.strappe.com|Jim Stewart's home page]]
+-** Original written By Jim Stewart[[http://www.strappe.com|Jim Stewart's home page]]**
- Submitted by Yamaha George visit his site [[http://www.saltmine.org.uk/fzr/general.html| Saltmine.org.uk]]
+** Submitted by Yamaha George visit his site [[http://www.saltmine.org.uk/fzr/general.html| Saltmine.org.uk]]**