FZR 600 problems UPDATE Need fast help

[Shocka311]

So I'm having a problem and I don't know what else to do. I have a 1990 fzr 600 that was previously a cali bike. I live in Utah and I've had horrible problems starting in after it cools dow. It takes about 60+ seconds of cranking to get it to run on its owb and then another 60 of sitting at idle with the throttle just perfect before it will go above 1500 rpm. When it finely does make it, it blows a huge black cloud out the back. It also hesitates right off a dead stop and boggs down and WOT. I had the old regulator so I've replaced that cause it was overcharging my battery. 2 days ago i pulled the airbox and checked the carbs cause I figured it was jetted for cali and with the considerably higher altitude it was running so rich it was just f*ck. The jet needle and main jet were both stock. I forget the jet needle but the main is 107.5. The piolet jet is supposed to 32.5 but there were 50's in. I got some 30's cause thats all they had and put those in. The float heighth was correct as well. It still starts like shit and hesitates and boggs down but I can feel a slight difference in power while riding. It doesn't seem to be running as rich but when starting it I have to give it about a half turn of the throttle the whole time so by the time it starts its almost flooded. I don[t know what else to do. My main concern is starting because i just got a new battery and now its f*ck from the 60 second starts. Thanks guys.

[modkingfzr600]

have you checked the valve clearances yet ?

[Shocka311]

have you checked the valve clearances yet ?

No, I don't know how to do check or adjust valves but they do sound rough so I'm thinking they are out of adjustment. If anyone can tell me how to check and adjust them that would be helpful. If there are any other things I should check or any other sugestions too I'd appreciate it.

[tkclow]

Here is a link on how to check the valve clearance, it starts on page 9
http://commline.com/FZR/600/MANUAL/FZR6 ... %20pt1.pdf
Also you might want to pick up either an actual Yamaha Service Manual or Haynes Manual. here is another link to the factory Manual it just takes a little time to find what you are looking for.
http://commline.com/FZR/600/MANUAL/
Hope it works out for you and good luck

[yamaha_george]

Hi,
Question Cali bikes have no needle adjustment am I right ?

I think after you have checked your valves I would invest in a set of upper 48 state carbs so you can tune them properly

[Squidbert]

Hmmm I've never heard that the Cali models use different carbs. This is not good, as I plan on taking mine in to be serviced / tuned. If they do infact not have needle adjustment, could this be circumvented with Factory Pro or Dynojet parts?

[haro504]

have you checked the plugs i had a suv that did the same thing and it was the plugs

[Shocka311]

I just changed the plugs. The needle jet didn't have a place for adjustment but the carbs other than that are the same. I would think you could just go get a new needle jet that is adjustable.

[Shocka311]

f*ck! I discovered my problem when I went to check and adjust my valve clearance. Whoever worked on my bike last didn't set the timing right. The cams are set about 45 degrees off. When the timing mark is lined up the #1 cylinder isn't at TDC. I'm trying to find an easy way to adjust it without tearing the whole thing apart. Any way to pull a link out of the timing chain and move it enough to reset the cams? Anything else anyone knows to do to adjust them easily? Man stupid people piss me off.

[bweight]

AFAIK, there's only 2 ways to time the motor. Loosen the cam chain, then undo the cams and put everything back in place.. Or the second is cut the cam chain with a chain cutter, then you'll have to replace the cut link and press the new link in there... The 1st step is the most tedius, but you don't have to worry about breaking that chain and having the chance of not putting the new link in correctly..

The 2nd one is probably the quickest, but the only OTHER way to time the motor that I know of without taking the cams out.

[Shocka311]

So maybe i'm the stupid person. I don't know what the f*ck to do now. If anyone was wondering, there is a tensioner for the timing chain. That said, I followed the manual to set the timing exactly. It was off about 120* before, and I lined up all the timing marks exactly but now the motor won't turn at all. Its getting hung up when the exaust cam on cylinder 1 goes to open the valve and then if I turn it the other way, it hangs up when the intake cam goes to open the intake valve. Why whould it be off by 120* and is there anything I could be missing that would cause it to be hanging up? I'm a bit nervous right now. HELP!

[modkingfzr600]

before you go any further on the timing, pop the rotor off the crankshaft and see if there is a 5 degree ignition advancer installed ( offset woodruff key ) if there is , you will need to put a factory woodruff key back in before you set the timing.

if you need a factory woodruff key, i have one i'll ship ya for nothing.

[haro504]

with the timing marks im pretty sure they dont line up exact on every rotation its set on the compression/fireing stroke if your exaust valve is hitting then its def off now you have to turn the engine over till you get it top dead on the compression stroke then set the cam sprocket

[Shocka311]

I'm a f*ck dumb ass. I figured it out after hours of panic. The timing mark is the one twards the front of tha bike. There is anotyher mark that looks more like it should be a timing mark twards the back, which is the one I lined it up with. The real one on the front looks more like a seam or weld than a timing mark. So my bike was on and I spent hours setting it totally off. I got it reset but in the process two of my valve cover bolts broke and now I have an oil leak that is too bad to ride with. I'll have to go grab new ones and I'll be good. I feel like a total moron. In the process though I checked the valve clearence. got about 4 valves a bit too tight. two on exhaust and two on intake. Thanks for all the help, too bad nobody can save me from my own stupidity.

[yamaha_george]

I'm a f*ck dumb ass. I figured it out after hours of panic. The timing mark is the one twards the front of tha bike. There is anotyher mark that looks more like it should be a timing mark twards the back, which is the one I lined it up with. The real one on the front looks more like a seam or weld than a timing mark. So my bike was on and I spent hours setting it totally off. I got it reset but in the process two of my valve cover bolts broke and now I have an oil leak that is too bad to ride with. I'll have to go grab new ones and I'll be good. I feel like a total moron. In the process though I checked the valve clearence. got about 4 valves a bit too tight. two on exhaust and two on intake. Thanks for all the help, too bad nobody can save me from my own stupidity.

Shocka,
Calm down and stop beating on yerself, If you NEVER made a mistake you would learn less.

Since most here think I am a wise old Buzzard you just have to guess how many mistakes I've made !!!!


The important thing is you have learned the timing mark is bloody naff as far as marking is concerned (welcome to Yamaha ) and two you told the rest of us that the timing mark is the front one

Thank you for your hard earned lesson best of all it only cost you two bolts NOT two cams !!!!!

Last piece of the SERMON is"it take a MAN to admit yer screwed up ."