Brown and Oily Coolant

dreman · Post by **dreman** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 8:15 pm

ok, so today I wanted to replace my coolant and when I opened the cap on the radiator up, I saw a brownish liquid and it feels slightly oily to the touch.

http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/qq20 ... 061153.jpg

What should i do? i will be running a coolant flush to remove any gunk in it but should i use one of those 'stop leaks' solution from the auto stores. i'm afraid that there might be a small amount of engine oil leaking into the coolant.

thanks in advance.

slayermd · Post by **slayermd** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 8:18 pm

Looks like rust to me. Thats what the water looked like when I flushed my system.

When I cleaned the coolant system out, I used a mix of 60% distilled water and 40% white vinegar. The vinegar is acidic enough to clean the rust and other stuff out, but wont harm any seals. I put that mix in, ran the engine up to temp then drained that. Then put in just distilled water, ran up to temp and drained again. Then just put in whatever you want to use.

shredex · Post by **shredex** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 8:33 pm

slayermd wrote:Looks like rust to me. Thats what the water looked like when I flushed my system.

When I cleaned the coolant system out, I used a mix of 60% distilled water and 40% white vinegar. The vinegar is acidic enough to clean the rust and other stuff out, but wont harm any seals. I put that mix in, ran the engine up to temp then drained that. Then put in just distilled water, ran up to temp and drained again. Then just put in whatever you want to use.

you probably waited to long to change your cooland also.
I do a coolant change every few months or so to keep it clean.
when you leave it in there long enough it will turn to that green-brown color...

dreman · Post by **dreman** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 8:58 pm

Hi slayer,

thanks.... I think I'll get the ready made coolant flush and put that it in. Thanks for the tip though.

Hi shredex,

yeah, the previous owner probably. I just got the bike 2 weeks ago and am trying to give it a good once over

Post by **sweekster** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:14 pm

It is probably the glycol mixed with whatever rust formed in the radiator from sitting and no cirulation. Doing the flush the way Slayer suggested should clear it up.

dreman · Post by **dreman** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:08 pm

would it also get rid of the slightly oily feel of it too....

reelrazor · Post by **reelrazor** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:23 pm

Yeah, keep an eye on your oil level/color, too.

dreman · Post by **dreman** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 1:31 am

yup, reel. I did. Engine oil was a nice black and level was good. I'm changing it anyways. will run the distilled water / vinegar solution today and change the coolant.

dreman · Post by **dreman** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 6:28 am

ok. flushed the coolant with the vinegar / distilled water solution. I,ve cleaned the carbs, changed the engine oil and filter and the spark plugs as well.

now on to the problems:

when i fist stared the bike after putting the carbs back, it took an extremely long time for the bike to start. Im guessing that the fuel had to flow into the carbs first but it did seem kinda long.

I let it run to do the coolant flush. After the bike cooled down, I put in the distilled water to wash out the vinegar mixture. Again the bike took very long to start. I cranked it till the battery died and had to hook it up to my car battery. It started after a while. I dont think it should take that long to start.

Secondly, the manual says that 2.5l of engine oil is required with oil filter changed. I put in 2l and that filled up the sight glass completely. Even after running the bike for around 5 mins to check for leaks, the sight glass is still completely covered. I'm wondering if there is a vapour lock. How would I remedy this.

When the bike warmed up, i revved it to about 4k rpm and there was excessive vibration. Possibly related to the engine oil issue?

I currently have 102 jets in my carby as well and the exhaust gas still smells rich. I think I should increase the needle height. Currently running 4 from the top of the needle. I checked the floats and the they were about 22 mm. I think I may have to check them again......

Oh well, if anybody an contribute to the issues I have above, I would love to hear from you.

Thanks in advance

reelrazor · Post by **reelrazor** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 9:10 am

Was it running okay before you noticed the coolant issue?

When it started, did the oil level light go out quickly?

shredex · Post by **shredex** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 5:18 pm

yea, my needle is set on the first clip at the very top.
you should try it on the second clip from the top.
and it does take a long time to get the bike started after cleaning the carbs...I just did it today to so that is normal...but its not normal that it didnt want to run when you just flushed the coolant...
make sure you have gas in your tank as well...

dreman · Post by **dreman** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 9:32 pm

Hi reel,

when I first got the bike, it would need full choke to start but it started up fairly easy. The oil level light goes out once the bike starts running.

hi shred,

yes, i do have gas in the tank

almost a full tank i might add. I left the needle as it is coz I' running 102 jets and thought since they were smaller jets, i would have to out the clip further down the line. Guess I will have to raise it up a bit. Wouldnt the air mixture also make it run rich? perhaps I can get it tuned till its not so rich, correct? I dont know if the coolant flush has anything to do with it. I meant when I tried to start it a second time, it just wouldnt go.

reelrazor · Post by **reelrazor** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 9:51 pm

Yeah, see. That's what I am getting at. We need to figure out if it was the coolant flush, or the 'extra' work you did that is causing this condition.

I am of the opinion that the coolant dealio isn't your problem.

If it was running well before, don't change anything at this time.

Work on getting it BACK to how it was before and move forward from there. I would go back into the carbs and make sure EVERYTHING is correct. Take you time and look things over before you jerk them out....everything tight? No sign of leakage or anything? Then take them apart slowly and compare from one to another.......trust but verify.

shredex · Post by **shredex** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:43 pm

also, make sure your idle screw is set right...
We all have to start with the choke on, and once the rpms shoot up, we close the choke...
after closing the choke and the bike iss warmed up, adjust your idle to were it is at a nice low rpm.
it could also be your fuel mixture screws...but like razer said, "If it was running well before, don't change anything at this time. "

go over everything and make sure its all put together correctly...
is it still starting like crap? or is it normal when you try and start it now?

dreman · Post by **dreman** » Sun Dec 07, 2008 4:32 am

ok.... somehow by some miracle, its working now. thankfully. it start up with choke and then runs alright. not sure why it was acting up last night. left everything the way it was since it really wasnt screwing up the last time. it just wasnt smooth. going to bring it down to yamaha dealer for a tune and carby sync and hopefully that would be the end of the drama.....

thank you guys for the input. it is a pleasure to be part of this community.

i have a question about the rear shock though but i spose i will search first and if that doesnt work i'l post it up.

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