FactoryPro ShiftKit?

[snydes]

So my 1989 FZR400 seems to sometimes have trouble shifting. Here's the most common scenario:

So I will be stopped and in 1st gear, I will accelerate quickly (close to full throttle) and will shift to 2nd just fine then keep accelerating, then what happens is I will shift to 3rd and when i release the clutch it doesn't seem to be in gear and will sometimes make a grinding noise so I will quickly throw the clutch in the retry shifting to 3rd and i'm able to fine. Now this doesn't only happen with 3rd it has happened with 4th gear and I think once with 5.

One thing I have noticed a few times while shifting is that I feel like there's a 2 step feeling while shifting where I can feel it click halfway then i feel it again after shifting up further with the lever.

My main question is how well do you think a FactoryPro Trans Dent Arm kit (http://www.factorypro.com/products/shif ... y_Pro.html) would work? I was hoping it would help remove some of the miss shifts. I have no clue if it would be worth it to buy it or not as it doesn't happen all the time, only on certain occasions.

[britx303]

Sounds possibly like shifter forks or bent guide rods.2 of my FZRs that did the same thing,that was the culprit. You can pull the clutch and oil pan and swap them out without splitting the case.

[tabond]

Multiple gear ranges makes me think slightly bent rod as opposed to forks if it's internally mechanical. I'd take a look at the linkage first though. Worn heim joints can eat up your actual amount of travel and make the gears not quite mesh.

[snydes]

How would I go about checking the guide rods? or the shifter forks? Do i have to pull them fully out to check them or is it easily visible in the engine? Also how easy would it be to change them?

For these "heim joints" what are they? when you say check the linkage do you mean check the rods or the joints? If the joints how does one replace them?

I know I can get OEM guide rods and shift forks still (thankfully) so hoping this is my issue.

[Evilchicken0]

Have you tried clutchless gear changes ? If it still drops to a false neutral you'll know it's not the clutch

[snydes]

I have not tried gearless changes as I'm not comfortable enough with it yet. I know it isnt the clutch, i thought it was the shift linkages or the as they say above the guide rods/forks.

[Evilchicken0]

Try adjusting the gear change pedal before you go ripping into the engine. Loosen the locknuts from the 2 rose joints then rotate the gear change rod, rotate it one way and pedal goes up the other and it goes down ... you want it down a touch so your foot can operate it more positively. If you run out of adjustment you just need to rotate the joint round one spline, mark it with a pencil line or you wont remember where it was to start with.

Always start with the small stuff

[snydes]

I have been riding quite a bit this year and have moved the gear shifter down and it has not changed but has reduced them slightly. I still miss shifts here and there because i can feel the 2 stages of the dog gears moving from one to the other (feels like 2 entire clicks in one shift) so something isnt quite right but I dont think i will break into the transmission for a long time as i'd like to get another bike and preserve this one.

on another non related note, my magneto/alternator (i dont know which one this bike has) had an issue a while back where it wasnt charging my bike and the connectors to the wiring harness were the culprit as they had melted and corroded which my voltage regulator which i think died (battery was overcharging and actually had ran dry twice) had the same issue where all the connectors were black and corroded and the water(proof?) plastic housing for the wires has melted slightly too like something shorted out or it just got too hot somehow. any clues what could have caused this melting? just worried that something else could melt and cause the bike to totally fail.

[Evilchicken0]

That sounds like the reg rec died. The regulator part of the reg rec controls the amount of charge going to the battery ... when that goes the alternator will put charge straight through and it can spike quite high. The wires create a resistance and the joints in the wires a further resistance .... which causes heat and melts the block connectors.
The damaged wires / connectors can cause a higher resistance than the original although they might well be within tolerance. If this was a Honda you'd probably have to replace the alternator, wiring, reg rec, and battery ... but Yamahas keep on rocking (mostly )