2nd gear drops in to neutral

[narsius]

Hi guys,

I have a yamaha FZR 600, '91. And would like to start riding again. But I have several problems. But i will start with the biggest. When I shift gears, all of them work properly, except for the 2nd gear. When accelarating (Not hard accelaration, simply going past certain rpm) it goes to neutral. What might be the problem? Are there some adjustments I could make, or is this mechanical wear/damage like shift fork or something?

While I creating a topic anyways, I should also ask. Does it make sense to start repairing the gearbox, if there are other problems, like huge oil consupmtion on higher speeds (I once used around 2 litres of oil while did 150km, in speeds only ~150kph) leaking carbs (Took the apart, still can't find why. Or should I try finding another engine and do swap?? Sorry for the long topic, and excuse my english. BTW., I live in Denmark, is pretty difficult finding parts here for the FZR especially new and original.

[willandrip]

Hi and welcome; your English is far and away better than many whose native language it is, who are on here; no apologies required.

Second gear problems are usually bent/worn shift forks in conjunction with worn gear dogs on the pinions.
The parts are not untowardly expensive; the gasket set will cost more probably.
It is not really a viable proposition if the engine also requires other work, which yours does, going by its oil consumption.

Ebay Germany may be a good source for you; there are a couple of engines on there that the sellers will ship.(They are in the Netherlands)

The carbs would be better rebuilt by yourself with a few new parts (sometimes a kit is cheaper than separate bits)
Most sellers will ship carb rebuild kits worldwide.

Leaking carbs are usually an easy fix on these.
The float bowl gasket is pinched/flattened /perished.
The floats are set incorrectly/punctured (rare) or the float valves are worn or have detritus preventing sealing.
The bowl drain screw is stripped or has split the casing.

Perhaps attempt the carbs again and then if you can fix that problem, re-evaluate the engine whilst pricing up a replacement.

You will struggle to find a seller who will have both a good engine and carbs as a package at a sensible price.( they will know they have you by the b*lls)

[narsius]

Thanks for the extremely fast reply. And a good one. I have some motorcycles that are for parts here in Denamark, don't know on the price though. Just wanted to make clear what should be the next move. The problem on the new engine is...well i know whats wrong with mine, I have no clue what am i buying (Or how used it is...wear and tear and such). Most of the sellers offer a small warranty of some sort, but the problem is, I am a full working husband that has to take care of other things in the house as well. So this means less time for the bike, which means loooong repairs (add my technical skills it might take even loonger ) Anyways, if i decide on getting a new engine. Is it a simple take the old one out and put the new in? And does it require huge technical skills. I am not a mechanic, but I do like repairing stuff myself. Always looking after my cars, computers and stuff (usually they work AFTER I take care of them) oh oh by the way. What way could I get a repair manual? And not sending from the states? It takes a huge amount of time to get something from the states to denmark..

I also read some of the members having carbs from other bikes (YZF 600) What is the difference? I am not a really huge tech guy, but doesn't the carbs only mix air and fuel? The combustion it self happens down bellow? Or am i mixing something up?

PS. I found a engine for 1600 usd...well thats a bit costly...isn't it?

[willandrip]

An engine swap is very easy on these bikes; biggest problem will be getting old exhaust manifold nuts off the studs without snapping them.
This will not matter if you are swapping engines.
I was going to mention the replacement engine warranty period but considered you had enough to digest in the reply.
Do not even consider heavy parts from USA; the carriage and also import tax from non E.U countries will be crippling.
A motor for $1600 dollars is very expensive; a complete bike in UK would be $830 ish (see link)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-fzr-600-/141239131448?
This has not sold for the past 3 weeks.( come over for a weeks holiday and ride it home )

You do not need tremendous mechanical skills to swap out a motor; far less than repairing the existing.
You will need access to sockets and wrenches though.
The motor can be supported on wooden blocks and if the rear engine mount bolt is then fitted, it just pivots up into place.

Take lots of pics when you strip down the bike for reference .
I thoroughly recommend the Clymer Fzr 600 manual;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZR600 ... 2336d16dc4

Avoid the Haynes; it tries to cover too many models with not enough specifics. (useless for beginners)

I would not recommend using any other carbs but 3He originals.
The fueling on these bikes is very precise.(not like swapping a Webber for some old car carb)

Don't get mixed up with Yamaha 600cc bikes;
The Fzr 600 3HE ;the Fzr 600 4JH Foxeye called the YZF 600 in USA and the "true" YZF 600 (R6) are completely different bikes,

Example of price for 3HE motors in Europe;
http://www.microsofttranslator.com/BV.a ... 51b7d23429

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZR600 ... 3cdf1db0f7

You say you know what is wrong with you engine !
But do you ?
If it is using that much oil; it may need pistons and a rebore = not financially viable.
It may just need valve stem oilseals but it will cost a head gasket (£35) just to look.
Can you get a compression test done on it ?; if the readings are low/vastly different between cylinders then forget it.

[willandrip]

Forgot to add this link; may help out with an easy fix on the 2nd gear issue.

http://www.fzronline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=206