my first fzr 600

[thatkid]

Believe me, poor corroded connections cause all kinds of faults/issues, especially intermittent and recurring faults. Vibrations will improve or degrade the connection quality on a regular basis.

In my diagnosis I prefer to use none destructive methods when possible, so as to pin point the actual fault, not to replace components willy nilly. I want to know the cause of the fault. Why guess when you can diagnose? A faulty pick up coil will cause a weak poor or no spark on all 4 spark plugs, a faulty TCI can cause no spark on #1 & #4 plugs or no spark on #2 & #3 spark plugs, sometimes no spark on any plugs. The OP has only tested #1 & #2 plugs, the fault could be HT leads, plug caps, or even the plugs.

At this point I was dealing with his weak no spark issue on #1 & #2. he couldn't be bothered to post the results I asked for.

I'll leave this one for you to solve.

[loolagigi]

i havnt posted the results yet because i have not done the test yet. it was late last night.....today i will post the results...

[loolagigi]

ok, i plugged in the tci and turned in ignition. i tested the coils and they read nothing. maybe i did it wrong? also, i turned off ignition and unplugged tci. i looked at the large connector and it has red/white, black/white, and grey....no blue and white...?

[loolagigi]

if you go to the top of the thread there is a photo of it. there are 2 wire harness make plugs. the one on the left has 8, the one on the right has 6.

Go look at the wire harness that plugs in there. The larger wire connector only has 3 wires going into it. That is what he is talking about. The other slots are not used.

If I had to guess, I'd say you have a bad TCI (computer). It could be a wire issue, but if you can get it running then it doesn't it shouldn't be wires. You can down load a PDF version of the factory service manual from this site (it is in the WIKI). Go through the entire section marked trouble shooting with your new meter including the parts about the ignition switch, relays, and coils. This will help you find any week points in the wiring if they exist. If not, then you are looking at the TCI being bad.

Are you sure the rest of the bike is in sound condition? Valves are good, carbs don't need to be cleaned and are jetted properly (not too lean or rich)?

not sure where the trouble shooting section is for a 89 fzr600.

[loolagigi]

ok i tried it again...thus is what i did. i checked the battery....14 volts. i checked the "in" plug to the ignitor and it read 11 volts. then i checked ohms on "out" plug on ignitor and it read 6.6. them i checked the coils volts and got nothing.

[loolagigi]

is there a link for the online pfd manual that shows wiring troubleshooting?

[loolagigi]

Your getting 12v to the Red/Black wire on the Igniter (TCI) yes?

You say "weak spark" "then no spark" is that on all 4 plugs (the bike won't start)?

Any other symptoms? blown bulbs, does the fuel pump prime when the run stop switch is turned off then back on (ignition on obviously) Tacho still functioned while the bike was running (or is the bike still running), have any other electrical components stopped working?

Follow the instructions below in the order 1 to 3, Breaking then making a connection is destructive diagnosis which could temporarily solve the fault = you may never know what the fault was, it will return @ a later date. Don't disconnect anything else YET.

1. Check for power on the ignition coils solder terminals (remove the tank cover, then airbox the coils are located there). Coil for #1 & #4 Red/White wire then Orange wire, Coil for #2 & #3 Red/White wire then Grey wire, Your looking for 12v (approx) on all wires.

2. Reconnect the TCI after checking the prongs and connector for corrosion, recheck for 12v to all the coil wires as above, You should still have 12V (approx) on all 4 wires.

3. Ignition OFF disconnect the TCI, on the large connector (there's only 3 wires connected) connect an ohm meter between the White/Red & White/Blue terminals, your looking for 80-120 ohms @ 20 degrees C or 68 degrees F. Then White/Red and ground, then White/Blue and ground, your looking for infinite ohms (no continuity) any continuity on that test indicates a short (to ground) in the pick up coil.

Post your answers/results, if necessary I can advise you further.

everything checks out up to the ignitor...once i check my coils...i have nothing.

[thatkid]

i looked at the large connector and it has red/white, black/white, and grey....no blue and white...?

Your right, I just looked @ the wiring diagram. The Blue/White wire I mentioned is actually Black/White. My bad I was working form memory and it was also late @ night/early hours of the morning (UK) BST 6 hours in front of EST when I was replying.

The factory service manual from this site in the wiki, that was mentioned I don't know of that nor where it is.

I'm assuming you bought a Digital Multi meter. If so read the instructions supplied with the meter, You need to set it to the 20V DC position.

I'll start again AND I WANT the results. If you ignore me again I'll do exactly the same! sorry for being short but that's what will happen.

Ignore everything else mentioned (previous posts of mine) lets take this slowly.

1. Does the bike start up? .... answer Yes or No.

2. With the digital ignitor disconnected, Ignition ON Run stop switch in the ON position. Check for power on the ignition coils solder terminals (remove the tank cover, then airbox the coils are located there). Coil for #1 & #4 Red/White & Orange wires, connect the multimeter's (set at 20V DC) Red wire to the Red/White wire solder terminal (on the coil)
Connect the meters Black wire to the battery Negative (Ground) take the reading (write it down). Repeat the process on the other coil Red/White wire Take the reading (write it down) If you didn't know how to us the multimeter you should now

Now repeat the process on the Orange wire then the Grey wire (on the coil solder terminals) write them down.

3. Reconnect the TCI, recheck for power to all the coil wires as above, write the readings down. They could differ.

If you don't understand any of the above please say so & Please post your results.

[loolagigi]

i looked at the large connector and it has red/white, black/white, and grey....no blue and white...?

Your right, I just looked @ the wiring diagram. The Blue/White wire I mentioned is actually Black/White. My bad I was working form memory and it was also late @ night/early hours of the morning (UK) BST 6 hours in front of EST when I was replying.

The factory service manual from this site in the wiki, that was mentioned I don't know of that nor where it is.

I'm assuming you bought a Digital Multi meter. If so read the instructions supplied with the meter, You need to set it to the 20V DC position.

I'll start again AND I WANT the results. If you ignore me again I'll do exactly the same! sorry for being short but that's what will happen.

Ignore everything else mentioned (previous posts of mine) lets take this slowly.

1. Does the bike start up? .... answer Yes or No.

2. With the digital ignitor disconnected, Ignition ON Run stop switch in the ON position. Check for power on the ignition coils solder terminals (remove the tank cover, then airbox the coils are located there). Coil for #1 & #4 Red/White & Orange wires, connect the multimeter's (set at 20V DC) Red wire to the Red/White wire solder terminal (on the coil)
Connect the meters Black wire to the battery Negative (Ground) take the reading (write it down). Repeat the process on the other coil Red/White wire Take the reading (write it down) If you didn't know how to us the multimeter you should now

Now repeat the process on the Orange wire then the Grey wire (on the coil solder terminals) write them down.

3. Reconnect the TCI, recheck for power to all the coil wires as above, write the readings down. They could differ.

If you don't understand any of the above please say so & Please post your results.

mawler, i never ignored you man. and if i did, i did ot mean to. its 11 pm where i am, i will answer your questions tomm. have a great night, and thanks again...Joe

[thatkid]

Ok,

I'm asking these questions for a reason, not making them up as I go along. I can't help you if you don't follow the instructions and give me the results.

4. Ignition on, digital ignitor connected (both connectors) flick the Run Stop switch off then ON. Do you hear the fuel (Gas) pump prime for approx 5 seconds?

5.

i checked the "in" plug to the ignitor and it read 11 volts.

What colour wire "Red/Black"?

[loolagigi]

ok.....if sitting on the bike with tci disconnected....right coil red/white 11.95...orange 11.96.

left coil red/white 11.95....grey 11.96.

with tci connected.......right coil red/white 11.69. orange 11.82.

with tci connected left coil red/white 11.72. grey 11.75.

ignition on run stop switch on fuel pump clicks then 6 seconds later clicks again.

[loolagigi]

maybe its my stator? where is my stator? whats it look like? is it the round gold thing with a blue wire comming from it?

[thatkid]

From results I've seen in the past when the TCI (digital ignitor) is fried The coil Orange or Grey wires voltage dropped to 0.5V or so when the TCI was connected. Some times the fuel pump doesn't prime, so Yours has passed those tests, The only ones I know of.

It's NOT the stator, the bike will start with a faulty stator.

Now check the pick up coil.

i looked at the large connector and it has red/white, black/white,

Those 2 wires connect to the pick up coil.

Ignition OFF disconnect the TCI, on the large connector connect an ohm meter (set @ 200 ohms) between the red/white & black/white wires, your looking for 80-120 ohms @ 20 degrees C or 68 degrees F. Then red/white and battery negative, then black/white and battery negative, your looking for infinite ohms (no continuity) any continuity on that test indicates a short (to ground) in the pick up coil.

[loolagigi]

ok, i set meter to 200 ohms. it read 1. i checked red/white and black/white wires on large connector.....still read 1. i put red/white and batt ground and still got 1.

[thatkid]

Ok under the fuel tank there's a 2 wire connector left hand side going into the left engine cover, that could be corroded. Your looking for the red/white & black/white wires.

To remove the tank, you need to disconnect the Black plastic fuel tap/petcock knob I think its a Phillips screw, there's a 10mm bolt @ the front of the tank remove that, lift the tank out, then disconnect the fuel hose.

With that connector disconnected put the ohm meter on the wires going into the engine.