Wow, this came out of my crank case. Any ideas? (updated)

[Shocka311]

So to make this clear , you thread 6 mm welding tips in the black boots that are under the carbs..or where the red circles are?? Have to remove the bolts ,right?
So to synchronize the carbs do you fiddle with the idle air mixture screws which are at the bottom of the carbs or the spring loaded screws in between the carbs?
Do you use gas or water in the home made synch bottles? What do you watch in the bottles? Make a mark??
We need to make a detailed sticky on everything about carbs from synching to adjusting floats to what each screw does ,with pics and such..to help slow people like me and others..

The red circles are the ports on the carb boots. You take them out and the MIG welder tips screw right in. To synch the carbs you mess with the three spring loaded screws in between the carbs, the green circles. You can use water or oil. I don't know about gas but water works fine. You just watch and try to get the water level equal, no need to mark. I put food coloring in the water to make it easier. And I totally agree with the thread with all this stuff, took me a while to find it all. Also if you haven't I'd take your carbs apart and gove everything a good cleaning. I did and went for a spin before I synched the carbs and it was a night and day diference just cleaning things.

[ragedigital]

So to make this clear , you thread 6 mm welding tips in the black boots that are under the carbs..or where the red circles are?? Have to remove the bolts ,right?

Yes.

So to synchronize the carbs do you fiddle with the idle air mixture screws which are at the bottom of the carbs or the spring loaded screws in between the carbs?

You adjust the CARB SYNC SCREWS shown here in GREEN:

[thatkid]

I use this baby to sync carbs http://www.carbtune.com/ takes 30 mins or so (when you know what your doing) synch 1 - 2, synch 3 - 4,
then synch 1 - 2 to 3 -4, no swapping tubes e.t.c worth every penny, of the £55.00

[yamaha_george]

I use this baby to sync carbs http://www.carbtune.com/ takes 30 mins or so (when you know what your doing) synch 1 - 2, synch 3 - 4,
then synch 1 - 2 to 3 -4, no swapping tubes e.t.c worth every penny, of the £55.00

M,
I am with you on that one I have one now for about 9 months but then I am a "tool collector" if it makes the job easier I probably have it in my collection.

Saying that you may only use it once ayear so some people might not consider it a bargain and the two bottles is a quick diy job away from your tool rack & workshop.

Perhaps when I get Darrin can remind me and I will do a WIKI page of all his nice photo's with a write up. In the mean time if anyone else wants to do it..............................

[yamaha_george]

Ah...i just made a booboo. The red circles in the pic above are where you thread in the 6mm welding tips and then attach the tubes from your synch tool (I did them two at a time when I did my carbs). The Idle Air Mixture Screws are located at the bottom of the carbs just under the bowls. If your carbs have never been adjusted then they will be covered by brass caps. To make the actual adjustments you'll see spring loaded screws in between the carbs (green circles). What tool did you decide to go with?

So to make this clear , you thread 6 mm welding tips in the black boots that are under the carbs..or where the red circles are?? Have to remove the bolts ,right?
So to synchronize the carbs do you fiddle with the idle air mixture screws which are at the bottom of the carbs or the spring loaded screws in between the carbs?
Do you use gas or water in the home made synch bottles? What do you watch in the bottles? Make a mark??
We need to make a detailed sticky on everything about carbs from synching to adjusting floats to what each screw does ,with pics and such..to help slow people like me and others..

YB,
Ok as you requested I have put a place holder to this thread in the HOW-To's by RageDigital
"HOW-TO: Everything you need to know about carburetors" When I get back to my real desk I will edit the picture from this thread with blurb so it becomes part of the Official Carbs How To page.
That should work.

[Shocka311]

Alright I just synched my carbs and in synching them it moved the whole throttle so now im idling between 2 and 3 k. I can't adjust the idle screw to compensate cause the throttle is as closed at it will go. Its not resting against the idle adjustment thing anymore, theres just a space. If I push it against the idle adjustment thing it will go down to 1500-1k but won't stay there. I've adjusted my throttle cables to compensate as much as I can. How do I fix this?

[sweekster]

Alright I just synched my carbs and in synching them it moved the whole throttle so now im idling between 2 and 3 k. I can't adjust the idle screw to compensate cause the throttle is as closed at it will go. Its not resting against the idle adjustment thing anymore, theres just a space. If I push it against the idle adjustment thing it will go down to 1500-1k but won't stay there. I've adjusted my throttle cables to compensate as much as I can. How do I fix this?

Ok, button everything up as if it's ready, well everything except the airbox. Then, while the bike is running, turn ONLY the center synchro screw CLOCKWISE. You'll notice the idle will start to drop. See if that helps.

[Shocka311]

cool I'll give that a shot. so I went for a test run after I finely finished all this shit and its STILL DOING WHAT IT WAS! I've synced and cleaned the carbs, cleaned my air filter, checked the fuel filter and replaced all the fuel lines and I'm still losing all my power at 6k, it just totally cuts out and I can't accelerate past 6k rpm. after it warms up it clears up but if i turn the bike off then come back and ride in a few min and its still warm its worse and takes longer to clear up. what else could it be? It doesn't get better or worse when I choke it.

[sweekster]

So it won't rev past that at all? Is this bike jetted?

[Shocka311]

It will rev past there in neutral but I just lose ALL my power and it just hangs up at 6k when I'm accelerating. It's MUCH worse at wot. If i'm all the way on the throttle it won't go past 6 at all; if I'm at 1/4 or maybe 1/2 throttle it will kind of creep up but still boggs down alot. My power some times cutts out in spurts around 5k and again around 7.5 or 8. It'll cut out for a second and the kind of lurch when it starts going again. Its not jetted. I checked the plugs and they looked fine as well.

[Shocka311]

Shit, new problem. So I have a restriction in my carbs somewhere. When the fuel line is hooked up the pump wobn't run but it will when its not connected. I tried to blow in the hole and it was totally blocked. When I took it off if I turned it over and blew in it it was fine but if I turned it back how its supposed to be positioned it was restricted. I'm taking the float bowls off and I may have to seperate them. Any other sugestions or pointers when seperating them. This also all hapened right after i adjusted the air mixture screws. They were 3 or 3.5 turnes out and i set them to 1.5 cause I'm running lean.

[ragedigital]

They were 3 or 3.5 turnes out and i set them to 1.5 cause I'm running lean.

If you were running lean, then you should have them out further, not inward. Set them out to 4.5 turns out and work from there.

[Shocka311]

Doesn't turning them out let more air in? Or do our air mixture screws control gas folw?

[Shocka311]

anybody have a motor for sale? I got my carbs tuned so I didn't seem to be runnin lean or righ and it was idling and revving better than ever. Pulled it out of the garage started it and it sounded like something broke in my crank case and started rattling around. It would barely idle and when I gave it any gas it rattled like f*ck crazy and killed it. Something bork in there and sounds terrible. I'm going to drop my oil pan right now to see if I can see anything but I think my engine may be totally f*ck. I can't f*ck win.

[thatkid]

you didn't drop something down the carbs did you? take the plugs out. if any of the plug gaps are closed there's something in that cylinder! also get it on a paddock stand put her in the highest gear you can get, and see if you can spin the rear wheel either way clockwise or anticlockwise, don't hit the start button!!!