Clutch slip?

[coops]

When at 3/4 - full throttle the clutch seems to slip but in an unusual way in my experience. Its as if the lever has been pulled in for like 1/4 of a second and then released. (it slips lots just for 1/2 a second and comes right) Normally in my experience, once it starts slipping it keeps slipping for quite a few seconds and not as sevierly.
Is this normal clutch slip for these bikes? Or could it be something else?
If its slipping (hope) what is my best option for a new clutch kit, Best quality? OEM is probably expensive?
Its going to be a track bike only. Stock engine.
Cheers, Steve.

[DonTZ125]

Slip-zing! is usually a sign of worn or warped plates, springs, etc. Slip-grab is more a sign of a notchy basket; the plates hang up to the point they slip, but then the jolt of sudden spin up knocks them loose and it fully grabs.

[coops]

Slip-zing! is usually a sign of worn or warped plates, springs, etc. Slip-grab is more a sign of a notchy basket; the plates hang up to the point they slip, but then the jolt of sudden spin up knocks them loose and it fully grabs.

Does this mean my basket is shot? Or i could file the fingers smooth again? I did this on my Kawa h1, worked fine.

[DonTZ125]

You can file the fingers smooth, but the extra play means the plates will rattle more, leading to accelerated wear (compared to a new part). You are extending the life of an expired part; don't expect another 20 years!

[coops]

Sweet azz. Il just have to pull it down and have a look.
Any prefference on the plates? EBC? Barnnet? or the other one?
Cheers.

[DonTZ125]

Yamaha OEM. Reelrazor's used a bunch, and the OEM parts are as good as anything out there. He's also priced the different choices, and - barring some package deal on eBay - the stock parts are cheaper.

Yes, I know; OEM parts being better AND cheaper?! Now THAT doesn't happen very often!

[coops]

Yes, I know; OEM parts being better AND cheaper?! Now THAT doesn't happen very often!

Damn right there!!Thanks

[Redoliander]

Is it suggested to use the OEM plates and stiffer springs like the EBC ones? I think I read that somewhere.

[DonTZ125]

Only if you've got a really built engine; Barnett clutch springs are meant for blown dragsters or something mad. You can substitute 50% if you really want, or just shim the OEM springs. Fresh OEM springs are all you need for a street engine, and for most club racers as well.