Brake rotor and fork spring questions...

[nortstudio]

What's up folks,

I have 2 questions about my 1993 600.

I have recently been dealing with the front end and the suspension. I just swapped a full R6 brake set-up onto it, and will soon be putting the R6 rear shock onto it from ReelRazor..

Next up is the front suspension, to try and get the bike better balanced with the upgrade to the rear. I have looked on the Race Tech web site to get the correct spring rate. it turns out the suggested rate is smack dab in the middle of the two offered rates. I am looking for some suggestions as to whether it's best to take the size up, or size down? I do most of my riding on the streets on NYC, and as of yet, no track days, so just need suggestions for basic riding, with some twisties thrown in.

My next question is about the rotors. I am new to more modern braking (used to 1976 single, non-drilled rotor), but was quite surprised to see the rotors on the FZR are a bit "wavy.". By that I mean, if you drag your fingernail across it, it has smooth peaks and valleys. Does this mean the rotors are shot?

Thatnks for any/all advice.

Scott

[reelrazor]

The grooves in the rotors are pretty much normal wear.

Unless they are really deep/quite varied in depth. But uniform 'peaks and valleys' is not a big deal.

New pads will 'bed in' on the grooves in short order.

Worry more about any lateral runout (warpage).

Ohh, and with the forks you can go a spring lighter and raise the fork oil level a little to bring the spring rate up(air on top of the oil acts as a spring).

[thatkid]

When you used the calculator did you account for gear weight? Also not as important but passenger? I would most likely go up to the heavier spring. You can probably go either way and then add heavier or lighter oil to compensate depending on which way you went.

As for the rotors, you might be able to find a place to get them turned but that may put you past the wear limit and you'd be better off putting the money towards a new pair. Minimum thickness is 3.5mm or .14in. So see how close you are to the wear limit and decide from there.

[nortstudio]

Thanks guys. Great point! I totally forgot about gear wear, which can be substantial by the time I'm all wrapped up in my protective garb. I better give the calculator another go.

None of the peak/valley seem too dramatic. I measure for wear tomorrow and see how that looks.

Appreciate the help.

[sweekster]

The forks...relative question. Some will say new springs. Some will say new springs and heavier oil. Others will say newer front end. Well here's my : Back when I was riding an fzr 600 I ran 30w racing fork oil and nothing more. Stock springs and spacers. The ride didn't feel harsh to me nor was there any deflection during hard braking. Granted I weighed about 210lbs at the time but still. I have 20w oil in my fzr1k with the preload set half way and have the same results on a much heavier bike (and these days I weigh 175). If memory serves, the 600 was set up from the factory for a 150lb person with a slightly moderate progressive spring and 10w oil. Correct me if I'm wrong there.

If I were to suggest a setup for you, given this bike is a street use bike with occasional track use, I would suggest progressive brand springs, slightly longer preload spacers, and 15 or 20w oil. The race tech springs are a single rate and if you go too heavy every bump will be an attempt in flight. Where as the progressive springs will probably give a better balance and cover larger aspects of your riding.

It will still depend your personal findings and what your wallet will allow but hopefully my ramblings sheds insight and gives you another option to explore.

[nortstudio]

Thanks sweekster. This bike is for the street only, not sure if I'll ever make it to the track. Always a dream though.

I have used progressive in other bikes and always been happy with them. Honestly, the only reason I fixated on the RT was because its the only brand mentioned, in any post I have read about these bikes (and possibly any sport bike - at least as far as I recall).

I also wondered about keeping the current springs, checking spacing, and possibly saving the cash by going with longer spacers and heavier oil (than typically recommended) as a first attempt. Not sure if the life will have been squashed out of the 25 year old springs?

On this bike, I'm more limited with adjustment than the bike you mention, with nothing but tire, spring, oil and me . It would be nice to have a more adjustable front end, but that will have to wait for another day. And frankly, it's more than I need right now.

Has anyone had any luck trying to set up the FZR for better front end by going this route. I know it wouldn't be ideal, but it just might work for now???

Appreciate the great feedback.

[nortstudio]

UPDATE:

I just weighed myself with all my winter gear on (what a shock at about 20lbs!!!).

When I went back to the Race Tech calculator, i noticed that it asks for weight without riding gear. So maybe they are calculating for gear in a vague way? It's strange to me, since their info on setting up suspension includes the rider with gear on.

Still going to look into Progressive, and I'd appreciate any opinions on modifying the current springs with different spacers. I know this would be best as a temporary fix, but curious of it might offer some type of improvement - or if the springs are most likely garbage after this long.

Thanks.