Alternator

[dfuerst]

Howdy All:

Can anyone tell me the max output of the 600s alternator? I rode to work today with an electric vest and grip heaters, and I wound up with a dead battery. I'd like to do the calcs so I can figure if I'm in the hole or not, or if the problem is with something else. I have updated the VR after my last one died.

Thanks,

Darren

[racerd14666]

i cant remember the exact output i think i calculated its around 5-600 watts peak (have to find my notes for when i planned my head light out) but there isnt much excess current left over with a stock electrical load, you can free up some were around 120- 170 watts of power if you switch over to led bulbs for your turn signals, brake lights and meeter lights. but i still dont think thats enough to run all that heating equipment on top of charging the battery, cus i know my grips are around 30 watts each and some of the vests that i have seen are in the 100 - 180 watt range. some options are to run turn them off at slower rpms and at idle, or run a compact a123 battery cell with a battery isolater and switch witch battery gets charged intermittently or if your riding during daytime i have seen ppl wire up leds in there head lights and switch to those and turn off there normal headlights to free up current but yet maintain a light head light

[DonTZ125]

RacerD - 600W?? I think you're remembering a Gold Wing or something...

Lying bastard shop manual says the FZR600W alternator is rated for 21A @ 12v, or 252W. The R6V has the strongest alternator on a sport bike I've seen, at 420W. The new VRR is rated for ~ 600W, but that doesn't help much if the alternator is only putting out 40% of that limit!

Switching to LED signals & brake lights doesn't really save that much power as far as maintaining a battery charge goes, since they aren't actually on that much. Their advantage is at low revs / idle, since they have such a low draw.

dfuerst - when you say you wound up with a dead battery, did it die en-route, or did you arrive at work with a fully-functioning bike that wouldn't restart later? A bike that works fine suggests the charging system is more or less able to handle the load, but you may have a parasitic load that drained your battery (vest left on...? ).

[dfuerst]

Thanks for the replies. So, the bottom line is the alternator's weak and the electric vest likely shoved it (kicking and screaming) over the edge!

The bike died as I pulled into the parking lot at work, and had the symptoms of a flat battery.

I'd been running grip heaters (plus GPS on occasion) for years without problems, so it's gotta be the vest. I suppose I'll run the vest intermittently -- that's about all I can do -- that and avoid riding when it's so fricking cold out (mid 30's, but with the price of gas these days...) I suppose I'll just use it on the interstate, which is half my commute.

No one has fitted an upgraded alternator, by chance, have they?

Last bike was a Concours, which didn't have this problem. Time to start looking for one again.

Darren

[DonTZ125]

There ARE places that can 'overwind' an alternator, adding ~ 20% to the capacity. RR told me about this awhile back, but I can't think of any off the top of my head.

Yeah, a touring barge like a Concours has a charging system designed to support things like radios, power vests, microwave ovens...

[dfuerst]

Darn right about the Connie -- you could run heated seats, electric blanky, TV, radio, foot warmers, and a full kitchen off that sucker. It's a fricken heavy bike (~600 lbs) but all that weight disappears the moment you drop the clutch, and it rides beautifully. There's a reason they were not changed much from 86 on.

Darren

[yamaha_george]

hi,
If you ride that much in the cold why do you not have good kit that does not require the bikes intervention,heated grips yeh but vest ?????

[dfuerst]

Kit is good -- 12 year old Joe Rocket sport touring gear, + layers, the stuff is warm, but once the thermometer drops below 40, at speed you've got one hell of a wind chill. For example, at 35f you're got a chill of 17 at 70mph. That gets cold, fast.

Once you try heated clothing in cold weather, well, let's just say it really is the cat's pj's. Keep your core warmed, and your extremities stay warm too (but your hands can use extra help, thus the grip heaters; on the Connie, with it's exceptional wind protection, I just used grip heaters+gear down below 32f, and stayed warm).

Try it, you'll like it!

Darren

[yamaha_george]

Kit is good -- 12 year old Joe Rocket sport touring gear, + layers, the stuff is warm, but once the thermometer drops below 40, at speed you've got one hell of a wind chill. For example, at 35f you're got a chill of 17 at 70mph. That gets cold, fast.

Once you try heated clothing in cold weather, well, let's just say it really is the cat's pj's. Keep your core warmed, and your extremities stay warm too (but your hands can use extra help, thus the grip heaters; on the Connie, with it's exceptional wind protection, I just used grip heaters+gear down below 32f, and stayed warm).

Try it, you'll like it!

Darren

Darren,
May be it is because I grew up in biking, long before all this technology, that I learned that layering as you have stated is the way to go. For long runs at 30F 'ish (last was 600 miles) I used bubble wrap "shin & knee pads" and "bar gloves" for my hands. I also tend to use a motorcycle mag or map tucked into my chest area. Even at age 60+ i found I did not suffer too much in the way of discomfort.

I must find some one with one of these land cruiser style bikes and give it a try out with heated everything never know this old dog may give up his FZR for a two wheeled arm chair LoL