Automatic Chain Lubrication

[thatkid]

Just thought Id thro this little beauty upon ya, I came across the Scottoiler recently.

We all know the dangers of a snapped chain, if you don't there's a thread here somewhere that is quite scary! Thats not the only issue, a dry chain consumes energy = less MPG E.T.C. Wears the chain and sprockets prematurely.

I've recently fitted a Scottoiler RMV (Reservoir Metering Valve) works off engine vacuum and oils the chain as you ride, a Dual Injector oils both sides of the chain, and a Lube Tube which holds an extra 200ml of oil.

Scottoiler's are manufactured in Scotland, read up here http://www.scottoiler.com/

Now I just need to finish everything else up and get some riding done. Damn FLU

[yamaha_george]

Just thought Id thro this little beauty upon ya, I came across the Scottoiler recently.

We all know the dangers of a snapped chain, if you don't there's a thread here somewhere that is quite scary! Thats not the only issue, a dry chain consumes energy = less MPG E.T.C. Wears the chain and sprockets prematurely.

I've recently fitted a Scottoiler RMV (Reservoir Metering Valve) works off engine vacuum and oils the chain as you ride, a Dual Injector oils both sides of the chain, and a Lube Tube which holds an extra 200ml of oil.

Scottoiler's are manufactured in Scotland, read up here http://www.scottoiler.com/

Now I just need to finish everything else up and get some riding done. Damn FLU

M,
definitely a must if you like cleaning the rear end of the bike they are always overactive & cannot beat proper chain maintenance by eye & hand

[thatkid]

Well im a lazy so and so. The RMV is adjustable, I have it set to 1 drop per min it can be switched off.

Thanks for the input if it shoots oil everywhere then that could be dangerous, I will keep an eye on it thanks. As to "proper chain maintenance by eye & hand" have you see the dry chains on members bikes here? I have. Id prefer an over oiled chain, over a dangerous dry chain any day. You now what i mean.

As for cleaning i just jet wash every now and again. Brake dust oil grease squashed flies e.t.c. then polish.

[ranmafan]

IMHO, most (all?) commercial chain oilers are ridiculously over-engineered...

For around the price of a new chain (if not more), you're getting only marginally more benefit than a dirt-cheap DIY bottle setup, with the exact same potential problems with installation, overspray and flow control.

No thanks.

[thatkid]

IMHO when renewing the chain the sprockets should also be renewed, time/money get it right the first time. Worn sprockets will prematurely wear your new chain.

I.E. the FZR600 is capable of 140mph plus, how fast will the chain be moving? 300mph? If and when it snaps nothing is going to stop it no matter what it collides with. Be it your chain guard, swing arm, sprocket cover, gearbox, or your or your pillions limbs/torso which can result in a fatality.

I think the expense is cheap. Compared to the possible damage/cost of a ill maintained dry chain that will eventually snap.

Everyone to their own. My kids ride pillion with me, I also consider human life far and way higher than money in my pocket.

[ranmafan]

I think the expense is cheap. Compared to the possible damage/cost of a ill maintained dry chain that will eventually snap.

Everyone to their own. My kids ride pillion with me, I also consider human life far and way higher than money in my pocket.

Err, my point was that a commercial chain oiler offers very little benefit over a DIY one (and the same hazard!) for a much higher cost, not that the idea has no merit.

Like, say, this one (I went with a slightly different design, but same idea).

[yamaha_george]

Whilst I agree chain oiling is a must, I have not seen one that actually puts the lube where it is required ON THE INSIDE run of the chain where the centrifugal force of the high speed of the chain will force the lube into the mating surfaces of the links & roller. Lubing the out side of a chain is just non sense except when after a run and the chain is hot and going to remain static to allow the chain to absorb the "oil" as it solidifies.This is as far as I am concerned a water remover/ repellent rather than lubrication as such.

With Modern O ring & X ring chains the bearing pins & rollers should not actually see much dirt or dampness that cause rust / paste to form to grind the innards. UNLESS YOU USE A Pressure washer to force washer past the engine seals & chain rubber seals !

IF you have O or X chains be sure the lube oil you use is made for those chains as some lubes contain solvents that will swell the rubber bits and cause them to dis-integrate.


Power washer have their uses but should be kept well away from chains and any part of the bike (front sprocket rear & front wheel hubs where bearings are vulnerable

Having seen these " labour saving devices " over the years they have a place with CAREFUL & SENSIBLE use in a proper regime of bike care not the haphazard way most people seem to be capable of using them in.

As for chain snapping I have related this before I was the passenger on a bike with a rider who regularly sprayed his chain HOWEVER the tension was something he apparently missed when spraying we were doing 80 plus when it broke it hit me from left hip to right shoulder what saved me was my open necked leather jacket billowed out in the wind , cut right thro the leather but not the lining so the wind pillow from the speed saved me.

Now perhaps you have a greater understanding , oilers make for laziness that removes the visual inspection of correct tension of chains and over enthusiasm with power sprayers the premature death of seals and the havock & expense that causes.

[thatkid]

I fully understand what your saying Geo, I never pressure wash the chain, it will always be checked for tension. In fact a slack chain on the FZR is very noticeable at slow speeds. Oil on the out side of the chain is going to get thrown in the wrong direction. The dual injector applies oil @ 7 O'clock on both side of the rear sprocket, therefore the oil is applied to the inside of the chain, and to both sides. The oil is specially made for the Scottoiler and comes in 2 variants, Cold climates and hot climates so as to drip @ the correct rate (which is adjustable). The chain if old must be cleaned prior to installation or the oil will not flow through the chain, as per instructions supplied. Whilst I'm lazy I never cut corners on safety issues, I look for ways of saving labour time and the 10 mins+ to scrub my hands clean. I did read the thread on the snapped chain that's what got me thinking, it really brought home the dangers of a snapped chain especially the ankle injury.

ranmafan nice DIY oiler and cheap. I would forget to switch it off tho But none the less a great idea.

[haunter]

i love scottoilers

[yamaha_george]

M,
I know you to be a careful guy and i wish some or our brethren were as dedicated to attention to detail, if I leave things unsaid then they will blithly forget everything and leave things to chance not take care of their bikes and by extension themselves.

All too often I see the squids down by the gas station pressure up to max and mm from sprockets, axles, seals, even plug caps etc . I wonder where they left what ever brains they good lard gave them are...............

Should not really complain they keep the second hand bike & parts market flowing

[thatkid]

I've thought deeper into the damage a dry chain will incur. It wont only damage the chain/sprockets.

A dry chain will partially seize (have tight spots) the chain will be slack tight and so on. Undue stress will be placed on the rear wheel bearings, the swing arm bearings, and the final drive bearings (front sprocket bearing). Not to mention the poor handling due to the slack tight effect and vibrations caused.

[yamaha_george]

I've thought deeper into the damage a dry chain will incur. It wont only damage the chain/sprockets.

A dry chain will partially seize (have tight spots) the chain will be slack tight and so on. Undue stress will be placed on the rear wheel bearings, the swing arm bearings, and the final drive bearings (front sprocket bearing). Not to mention the poor handling due to the slack tight effect and vibrations caused.

M
Which is why when on another thread i suggested checking ALL of those points when someone complained of a peculiar vibe that occurred with rev changes but NOT on neutral.
I said then that they were rather counter intuitive but being the man you are you have come to the same conclusion via another route :-}

[ragedigital]

With Modern O ring & X ring chains the bearing pins & rollers should not actually see much dirt or dampness that cause rust / paste to form to grind the innards. UNLESS YOU USE A Pressure washer to force washer past the engine seals & chain rubber seals !

I agree with George on this point. IMO, the oiler would work well for a "non" o-ring type set-up. I don't believe that I've seen any oiler on race bikes and their chains are going through a lot more punishment that we would ever give it. I just spray Bel-Ray Super clean on before each ride. No worry about the clothing getting oiled, the chain/sprocket teeth are fully saturated. I would also venture to say that most sprocket damage is due to misalignment.

[thatkid]

I agree with George on this point. IMO, the oiler would work well for a "non" o-ring type set-up. I don't believe that I've seen any oiler on race bikes and their chains are going through a lot more punishment that we would ever give it. I just spray Bel-Ray Super clean on before each ride. No worry about the clothing getting oiled, the chain/sprocket teeth are fully saturated. I would also venture to say that most sprocket damage is due to misalignment.

Checked my chain it appears to be a DID o-ring, last bike i owned was in 1982 RD 400, 28 years ago. I'm unfamiliar with modern chains. Thanks all for the input.

Rage by misalignment you mean, an incorrectly adjusted rear wheel running off centre?

[ranmafan]

With Modern O ring & X ring chains the bearing pins & rollers should not actually see much dirt or dampness that cause rust / paste to form to grind the innards. UNLESS YOU USE A Pressure washer to force washer past the engine seals & chain rubber seals !

I agree with George on this point. IMO, the oiler would work well for a "non" o-ring type set-up. I don't believe that I've seen any oiler on race bikes and their chains are going through a lot more punishment that we would ever give it. I just spray Bel-Ray Super clean on before each ride. No worry about the clothing getting oiled, the chain/sprocket teeth are fully saturated. I would also venture to say that most sprocket damage is due to misalignment.

I'm not convinced that an O-ring chain needs "lubing" in the same sense as a "standard" chain does, either. The parts that do need the oil are behind the O-ring, and by the time they start failing, you need a new chain.

However, what all chains definitely need is cleaning - which is probably why good old WD-40 and chain oilers (with lightweight oil!) seem to work so well at extending chain life. Road racers won't be seeing a whole lot of dirt, and it's just not practical for MX. Makes sense to me...