HOW-TO: Electrical MODs by Naeslas

[kilika2]

I used the exact same ones he showed in the write up. I'm also not using LEDs it the stock replacements that I got from Nate in the back. up front are some aftermarket flush mounts that are single filament. So if it matters I'm not running running lights. I will get the watts on the front though. And my temp gun.

Note* the signals flash exactly the same now.

Chris

[ragedigital]

I used the exact same ones he showed in the write up.

Well, he shows one thing and specifies another. He is showing a 10 ohm 2 watt, but specifies a 10ohm 10 watt. If you're using the 2 watt resistors, then they will be a lot hotter since they don't have a large enough surface area to dissipate the heat.

Do you know if you have the 10 watt resistors?

[yamaha_george]

Yup he says "should look like this" but in fact be 10Watt type and the 10watt variety look exactly like 2w variety but slightly bigger.
Heat is a problem so wrapping them in plastic tape is to say the least strange as plastic tape is not well know for being heat resistant I would use a VERY large heat shrink tubing over them .and smaller heat shrink tube over the actual leads.

[kilika2]

Well, I couldn't remember for sure, luckily I had written it down in my phone. And I went to "the shaq" and asked for a 10ohm 10w ceramic resistor. So that's what I have. I was going to pick up some heat shrink tubing, but I wired this up in the "trunk" and I have tools and other goodies in there. If it's going to be real hot I would rather just have a fast blinking turn signal. Or just change out the relay. I'll have to check all this stuff when I get home too.

Chris.

[kilika2]

Resisters are 10ohm 10 watt. The bulbs up front are 12v 8watt. I don't know what the back bulbs are but I imagine they are stock. After a 40 second blink test the resistor got to about 95 degrees (estimate though, I had to use an oven therm)

Side note though, The headlights were blinking opposite of the bulbs. I'm pretty sure it did that before but I was not as prominate with the faster blinking, I'm guessing because the load wasn't there from the resister.

Chris.

[ragedigital]

After a 40 second blink test the resistor got to about 95 degrees (estimate though, I had to use an oven therm)

You can hand hold temps usually up to 128 degrees. I think 130 can burn you if you hold it for several seconds.

Just wrap it like George said and not worry about it.

[yamaha_george]

After a 40 second blink test the resistor got to about 95 degrees (estimate though, I had to use an oven therm)

You can hand hold temps usually up to 128 degrees. I think 130 can burn you if you hold it for several seconds.

Just wrap it like George said and not worry about it.

I just live for the praise

[Brutal Tooth]

Anyone?

I did this mod setup by neas and am loving the way it makes my bike run. If this is the wrong order of firing and my bike can run better, I'm stoked!!!!! I can't imagine it being better.

[fizzer6hundred]

89-'94 - Old style, non-heatsinked regulator/rectifier
'95+ - New style heatsinked regulator/rectifier
* Do yourself a favor and check this to make sure it's working properly as it's a well-known problem for these bikes

What are the issues?
So if this is the case are there any preventative things I can do (such as add a better thermal heat sink) to solve any of the issues?

[ragedigital]

What are the issues?
So if this is the case are there any preventative things I can do (such as add a better thermal heat sink) to solve any of the issues?

Did you look at the difference between the 2 on the first page of this thread? There is also an explanation of the issues - overheating being the main issue.

If you want to keep it, then certainly you could add a better heat sink and fan combo, like one from a CPU.

[fizzer6hundred]

RaGE It looks like the thread discusses ignighter conversion to a ford unit and regulator not ignighter.

[ragedigital]

RaGE It looks like the thread discusses ignighter conversion to a ford unit and regulator not ignighter.

The first section "YZF Regulator" shows the difference between the 89-94 stock FZR regulator/rectifier and the newer FZR/YZF 95+ units. The newer ones work so well, the design hasn't changed much in 15 years.

We've seen some really bad burned out units.

Just keep an eye on eBay for a newer one and upgrade it and it'll be one less thing to worry about.

[hawcer]

I just removed a manual fan switch a couple days ago that was bypassing the themo switch circuit completely and rewired it back to how it should be. Then I saw this thread and the fan relay mod. It makes sense, why not have a manual fan switch as a back-up in case the thermo switch dies?

I looked at the diagram and it will work that way, but I decided to wire it up a little differently for one main reason. remove as much load off the ignition circuit as possible.

Here is a pic of my cheezy diagram to help explain:



My thoughts were, if you are going to introduce a relay into the circuit, might as well have the relay carry the load instead of the ignition switch.

A simple 5 pole relay can handle the job. Most automotive type relays will be marked as follows:

Terminal 30 - usually a fused power source directly from the battery.
Terminal 85 - Usually is wired to Ignition positive.This is the positive side of the relay control circuit.
Terminal 86 - This is the ground side of the relay control.
Terminal 87 - This is the output circuit of the relay when switch on.
Terminal 87A -This is the output circuit in the relay when not activated or off.

To install in the bikes fan control system:

1) Connect terminal 30 to a fused Power supply from the battery.
2) Cut the red wire to the fan's thermo switch and connect the harness side to terminal 85.
3) Connect the switch end of the red wire to terminal 87A.
4) Splice in a wire to the blue wire going to the fan and wire it to terminal 87.
5) Connect one side of the manual switch to terminal 86 and the other side to a good ground.

Wiring it this way will allow the fan to work normally through the factory thermo switch when the relay is off, but will be using voltage directly from the battery instead of the ignition circuit, But it can be manually switched on at any time.

You can easily reverse the control leads and put the manual switch on the positive side if you wish(terminal 85), with the same result. This would be the way to go if your switch has an indicator light.

If this is posted in the wrong place, feel free to move it where it belongs.

[DonTZ125]

The only problem I see is the possibility of a "can't shut it off" failure if the relay contacts weld on. By having the fan power going through the ignition switch, you can at least chop the power to the entire bike without rummaging to get at the fuses.

[hawcer]

The only problem I see is the possibility of a "can't shut it off" failure if the relay contacts weld on. By having the fan power going through the ignition switch, you can at least chop the power to the entire bike without rummaging to get at the fuses.

That's something I could live with. It's not like I would be under a time limit and in a rush to get the fan to turn off.

I've worked in the auto repair field for over 25 years, I've only had relays stick on a couple times...it's really not that common of a problem....errrrr, except in GM ABS systems in the Silverado's,LOL.