Hello guys
I'm about done with my carbs after getting the Factory Pro Ti kit. Can someone please clarify if I need only 1 locking ring on top of the plastic deal for the needle..Or 1 on top of the plastic thing and one under it.
I got 8 locking rings with the kit . I've 1st locked in a ring on the 2nd position(from the top or the end that is not pointy) , pushed the plastic deal up towards it then inserted another locking ring under the plastic deal. Then i pushed the little washer next to the locking ring. I only see 1 locking ring on top of the plastic deal in this picture http://www.fzronline.com/forum/gallery2 ... temId=1753 so I have a feeling that I need to remove the 2nd ring.
Thanks for any help
Needle Position
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Needle Position
1995 ,FZR 600,Factory Pro 1.1Ti Jet Kit, Yoshi slipon,K&N filter,elevation 4200 ft above sea level.
Carb settings: Main Jet 110, Starter Jet 52.5,Needle @ 3rd position,23m Floats,about 3 turns IM Screws.
80's-90's,Rap..music.?? http://www.last.fm/listen/user/unsmenar/personal
Carb settings: Main Jet 110, Starter Jet 52.5,Needle @ 3rd position,23m Floats,about 3 turns IM Screws.
80's-90's,Rap..music.?? http://www.last.fm/listen/user/unsmenar/personal
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yamaha_george
- 5000+ Posts

- Posts: 5853
- Joined: Fri May 09, 2008 8:46 am
- Location: west london UK
Re: Needle Position
Since the locking ring is commonly known as a "Jesus" clip as in "Jesus where did that fly off / drop too?" the extra clips are just that extra's so just use one clip as per the picture.yamaboy wrote:Hello guys
I'm about done with my carbs after getting the Factory Pro Ti kit. Can someone please clarify if I need only 1 locking ring on top of the plastic deal for the needle..Or 1 on top of the plastic thing and one under it.
I got 8 locking rings with the kit . I've 1st locked in a ring on the 2nd position(from the top or the end that is not pointy) , pushed the plastic deal up towards it then inserted another locking ring under the plastic deal. Then i pushed the little washer next to the locking ring. I only see 1 locking ring on top of the plastic deal in this picture http://www.fzronline.com/forum/gallery2 ... temId=1753 so I have a feeling that I need to remove the 2nd ring.
Thanks for any help
Re: Needle Position
yamaha_george wrote:Since the locking ring is commonly known as a "Jesus" clip as in "Jesus where did that fly off / drop too?" the extra clips are just that extra's so just use one clip as per the picture.yamaboy wrote:Hello guys
I'm about done with my carbs after getting the Factory Pro Ti kit. Can someone please clarify if I need only 1 locking ring on top of the plastic deal for the needle..Or 1 on top of the plastic thing and one under it.
I got 8 locking rings with the kit . I've 1st locked in a ring on the 2nd position(from the top or the end that is not pointy) , pushed the plastic deal up towards it then inserted another locking ring under the plastic deal. Then i pushed the little washer next to the locking ring. I only see 1 locking ring on top of the plastic deal in this picture http://www.fzronline.com/forum/gallery2 ... temId=1753 so I have a feeling that I need to remove the 2nd ring.
Thanks for any help
Ha ha. Thanks. I figured I only need one but wanted to make sure. Hey another dumb question... Factory Pro suggests that I set my needle clip at the 2nd position from the top.
By top they mean the part that is not pointy , right?? The way I have the "Jesus" clip now is at the 2nd notch from the top or not pointy end of the needle. Am I on the right track?
Thanks again
1995 ,FZR 600,Factory Pro 1.1Ti Jet Kit, Yoshi slipon,K&N filter,elevation 4200 ft above sea level.
Carb settings: Main Jet 110, Starter Jet 52.5,Needle @ 3rd position,23m Floats,about 3 turns IM Screws.
80's-90's,Rap..music.?? http://www.last.fm/listen/user/unsmenar/personal
Carb settings: Main Jet 110, Starter Jet 52.5,Needle @ 3rd position,23m Floats,about 3 turns IM Screws.
80's-90's,Rap..music.?? http://www.last.fm/listen/user/unsmenar/personal
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yamaha_george
- 5000+ Posts

- Posts: 5853
- Joined: Fri May 09, 2008 8:46 am
- Location: west london UK
Re: Needle Position
Hi,
that sounds about right, you will only really know by how the bike performs as this is strictly on a per engine basis not something carved in stone.
Once you have it all screwed down balance you carbs (tools & how to do it in the WIKI ) and then take her out for aride and see if there are any spots where she lacks power (needle effects mid range into the main jets top end performance {se sudco's booklet on what bit of carb covers what area of rev range} so you need a high speed road without police or speed camera's or being a good law abiding biker a track with along straight.
that sounds about right, you will only really know by how the bike performs as this is strictly on a per engine basis not something carved in stone.
Once you have it all screwed down balance you carbs (tools & how to do it in the WIKI ) and then take her out for aride and see if there are any spots where she lacks power (needle effects mid range into the main jets top end performance {se sudco's booklet on what bit of carb covers what area of rev range} so you need a high speed road without police or speed camera's or being a good law abiding biker a track with along straight.
Re: Needle Position
Ok , got it. Balance or syncronize is the same thing ,right?yamaha_george wrote:Hi,
that sounds about right, you will only really know by how the bike performs as this is strictly on a per engine basis not something carved in stone.
Once you have it all screwed down balance you carbs (tools & how to do it in the WIKI ) and then take her out for aride and see if there are any spots where she lacks power (needle effects mid range into the main jets top end performance {se sudco's booklet on what bit of carb covers what area of rev range} so you need a high speed road without police or speed camera's or being a good law abiding biker a track with along straight.
It will be a while before I get to checking the mid range and top end because I could not get it to idle right .
I set my floats at 24mm and it sounded to lean .It wouldn't even stay on with the fuel mix. screws all the way out. Only way was with the choke pulled all the way. I've tried the credit card approach to setting the flats and I could not get them right where I wanted them. (It's pretty hard to get the card right where you want it when you cut it)...So i've ordered a Mikuni float level gauge. Also bought a new VR because my charging system was only putting out 12.8V at 3000 Rpm.
I managed to get it running by using stock 22mm floats from another carb. but looks like cylinder 1 and 4 was running much hotter then 2 and 3.(Checked with a IR gun).Adjusted mixture screws for 1 and 4 out more but it didn't help much. So definitely need to check my floats and most likely get them to 22.5-23mm. I still have the stock 107.5 main jet. I might go to a 110.
Anyways I will post my progress once I get the carb tool.
What about the Pilot Air Jet which is by the main jet (107.5)and the starter jet.(32.5) ? Is that adjust or should i just leave it all the way tightened? Is that affect idle?
This should help me get my carbs running.
Thanks again
This stuff is finnaly making more sense. Ha ha
1995 ,FZR 600,Factory Pro 1.1Ti Jet Kit, Yoshi slipon,K&N filter,elevation 4200 ft above sea level.
Carb settings: Main Jet 110, Starter Jet 52.5,Needle @ 3rd position,23m Floats,about 3 turns IM Screws.
80's-90's,Rap..music.?? http://www.last.fm/listen/user/unsmenar/personal
Carb settings: Main Jet 110, Starter Jet 52.5,Needle @ 3rd position,23m Floats,about 3 turns IM Screws.
80's-90's,Rap..music.?? http://www.last.fm/listen/user/unsmenar/personal

