Brake reservior mounting revised (PICS!)

[olie05]

I finally got around to attaching my brake MC reservior. I'm using an 08 R6 master cylinder, and it has an external reservior cup. I wasn't happy with having to drill into my triple clamp, or any other part of my bike, when I installed it so I came up with a method involving zip ties and aluminum tube. that worked well until the tube fatigued and then my reservoir cup was just flopping around while I was driving.

Here is the previous mount. Notice the nasty bent aluminum tube.


The revision is basically the same design, zip tied to the triple clamp (this is the proven part of the design so far) with a bent rod going up to the reservior cup.

The rod is a piece that holds together the throttle bodies on the 2004 gsxr 750. It's threaded on one end (where you see the nuts) and smooth on the other (where it's zip tied to the triple clamp).




The mount is solid. I really like it and personaly I think it looks good. Only downside in using the huge r6 reservior cup is that it blocks my coolant gauge... I can peek around the cup when I need to look at the gauge though.

Also, since I had the camera out, here is a pic of my bike:

[Dragon]

Ahh damn, what has became of modding the FZR's? Zip ties for front reservior mounting now?
It's better off you drill into the top triple clamp bro.... but to each their own.

[sweekster]

Glad you've got a solid mount but I think this way is better of mounting one on an fzr600 better.

[mrfreeze5]

Sorry, I dont have a better pic of this. I used the stock YZF600 bracket for the reservoir and just drilled and tapped the triple tree. Everything fit perfectly. You could also use a piece of flat steel or aluminum. It would be very simple to bend the bracket you need by hand or with a pair of vice grips. Then just drill and tap a hole and youre done. I wouldnt trust zip ties for anything cristical. I have a few zip ties on my bike holding lines or wires, and every now and then, I will see one just laying on the ground because it broke from fatigue.

[punkandbikes]

sweekster, do you have any more pics of your mounting bracket? Was it hard to fabricate? Did you ever have any problems from the bent tube or anything?

[willandrip]

These are my meagre attempts;

You may have to set screen mag to only 100% for full width pic to show.









I used various brackets from past projects and drilled & tapped the yoke web.

Also did this on the 1WG Genesis and SP 2TK.
P.O Thought this was the way to go;WTF?





Sorted;



The higher you mount the res.;the more substantial the bracket must be.
The top of the fluid level needs to be only slightly higher than the cylinder inlet,once bled the system will self bleed until dry!

[punkandbikes]

I like the first one, nice and out of the way. No problems from the reservoir being lower than the MC? Or is that just the way it looks?

[willandrip]

I like the first one, nice and out of the way. No problems from the reservoir being lower than the MC? Or is that just the way it looks?

None whatsoever
Read the part at the very end of the post.
It is the camera angle and blurring that distorts perception.
1,2 and 3 are the same bike
The bracket used was from a ZXR 750 L,(brake or clutch fits)
The top yoke was drilled and tapped 6mm.
For those who find a brake res. obscures instruments;there is nothing to prevent a smaller cluch resevoir being substituted providing fluid level is monitered closely (looks a bit "dinky" though)
Did you purchase the inked master cyl.?

As Stig stated (different post);
Remove the PTFE from the bleed nipples.

Substitute copperslip grease.
Ensure nipples seat correctly after clearing orifices with a small drill or needle.
Do not overtighten.
Replacing master will not cure dragging/siezed calipers but will aid re-pressurizing.

I advise you to replace the std hoses (they are well past the sell by date) with braided if not already done.
I just measure and source seperates=kits are rarely correct length.

Pics help others with same symptoms.

This is the clutch lever assy. upgrade to match the span adjustable brake setup.

[willandrip]

Here is a Fzr 1000 mount tapped into the yoke.



It replaced this mess;



And went along with these.;

[punkandbikes]

Really really helpful, thanks!

I did purchase the linked master cylinder. I remember jamming the stock MC real hard out of frustration when the brakes started locking, so maybe I shot the seals on it? Anyway, this new one should help sort it. I took the calipers apart and cleaned them as per the wiki on here, so I should be good to go. (Although I'm also monitoring the blue dot ones advised to me). I have bought new bleed valves and rubber covers and a bleed valve double banjo for the MC as well. The lines were already replaced with Goodrich ones when I bought the bike, so hopefully they will be good for a while longer still. When it all arrives I'll let you know how I get on with the mityvac. As for drilling the triple clamp, I can't find any good used ones so will this do as a mount? I'll take the bike to a mate's place to drill and tap, whatever that means.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270932101324? ... 1423.l2649

Again, thanks so much for the help. It's been so frustrating having the bike not running for two months just because of the brake, but now it's all starting to make sense.

[willandrip]

Yes that mount bracket will do the job.
Never needed or used banjo bleed bolts,the extra length may foul the instruments but time will tell.
Once fluid is through the master cylinder you wont need it and that one, being s/h will already have fluid in it.
Drilling is simple=5.5 mm dia hole in a suitable place.
Tap said hole to 6mm. (put threads in it with a tap)
Goodridge hoses will outlast the motorcycle.
I have never used a Mityvac- If it is a vacuum tool, it will pull air through the threads of the bleed nipples even if well coppaslipped
and give false impressions I think.Might be good to initially fill the system though.
Forums are good places for help if you struggle with a job yourself,pretty much everyone reading, learns a little from each post.
Dont forget to follow up on how you get on.

[punkandbikes]

Willandrip, that's super helpful and plain English - really hope I can be as helpful to somebody else in the future! And thanks for making me believe in the bike again when I was starting to think I should have gone SR500 cafe like my friends! How do you get those crash bobbins on the frame? Just extended allum bolts? Or something fabricated?

Another quick question, has anybody used one of these? Would it adequately work in our situation or would the angles be too tight for the hose you think?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Factory-Racin ... 4d08eff6af

[willandrip]

SR500's are mint,my girlfriend had one for about 5 years back in the 80's and I rode it at every available opportunity, it was spot on for twisty country roads.
All old bikes have their problems,it just takes a little work to sort out.
I fit all of the bikes that have fairings with mushrooms;They are not designed for crash protection ,rather to prevent excess tip-over scratches should the worst occur when using paddock stands singlehanded. I am 55 and my balance is not so good now and I have a very cramped garage.


The house is full too;




Mushrooms=
They replace the fairing screw using a 6mm cap screw as you sussed.Most come with the correct packing spacers.
I just finishes off a bland slab of plastic.!

That bracket you linked looks neat.
The hose can be replaced with something suitable if the original is too short or kinks.
I often just reverse it and cut to length.
On one of the ZXR 750's I just used a length of clear.
It will look very like sweeksters set up.

Have you enough gap for it to fit on the handlebar tube.?

[punkandbikes]

First of all Willandrip, AMAZING COLLECTION! You must have a very understanding missus!

Secondly, thanks for letting me know about mushrooms - I'll try and get some sorted soon. It's my first bike so I know the chances are relatively high that I'll slip out and ruin the plastics at some point.

Thirdly, You were right about the bracket, it wouldn't have space to affix to the handlebars. But I've found another solution perhaps. It's from the states so shipping might suck, but it seems a pretty good way to mount without drilling.

http://kurveygirl.com/shop/product_info ... cts_id=654

Seems like the kind of thing I could get someone to knock up for pretty cheap as well.


Lastly, thanks for the tip on the brakes and MC. The thundercat MC turned up yesterday and just playing with it when emptying out the old fluid, realised that it's creating tenfold the pressure that the stock one was, so hopefully an end to my troubles. Got the blue dot calipers too, but I'm going to mount them later and run the stock for a while with new MC so I can get it on the road quicker and mount the others later.


You're a gent and I hope I get to meet you on a social soon and buy you a few drinks!

[willandrip]

No womenfolk at my house;they disrupt the ferrets too much!
I tend to keep an a eye on the auctions for things like mushrooms;no need to pay £15/20 from a dealer,none of mine would have been more than £5,thats how I acquire a few bikes.
Good find on the bracket;pics show exactly what I meant by using non stock hose for routing!


I thought I would ask if you had space on the bar for the bracket before I complicated things by what I now add.

If you have no space on the bar to slot in the bracket;
Remove bar end weight/cap.
Slacken switchgear and twistgrip and move further down the bar.
Fit bracket where desired and slot the twistgrip/switch back up to it.
Cut off the excess twistgrip rubber and throttle tube (its only pvc.)
Refit the bar end.You will never notice the 1/2" removed from the twistgrip.

Well done on getting stuartracing's blue spots at that price;
You got the calipers for free=the hoses would cost what you paid.
You may be able to use one of your braided hoses for the rear now you have spares.



Front hose on rear-cos that is what I had!! plus extra length is handy at rear wheel service.

Old motorcycles like these do not always require expensive OEM original parts in applications like this to keep them running,utilize what is at hand or cheap.(excepting engine parts)
You learn loads and upgrade at the same time; a win/win scenerio.

You had better get some pics up next time you post or others will bollock you.