Exaust and clutch stuff

[Shocka311]

Heh..that would be the air injection system (cali emissions thing). That stuff can be removed. That's an exup bike for sure. They don't have a wet stator like other bikes. There's a seal (if I remember correctly) behind the stator sealing the crank shaft. I could be wrong on that though. It's supposed to be dry in there.

Thats what I thought. does anyone know for sure so I can make a decision as to what to do. If its a dry stator then I won't seal up the housing and I'll figure out what to do next but anyone that knows for sure please speak up.

[reelrazor]

Heh..that would be the air injection system (cali emissions thing). That stuff can be removed. That's an exup bike for sure. They don't have a wet stator like other bikes. There's a seal (if I remember correctly) behind the stator sealing the crank shaft. I could be wrong on that though. It's supposed to be dry in there.

Thats what I thought. does anyone know for sure so I can make a decision as to what to do. If its a dry stator then I won't seal up the housing and I'll figure out what to do next but anyone that knows for sure please speak up.

The stator/rotor cavity is SUPPOSED to be dry. If you have oil there, then the crank seal IS leaking. It can be replaced from the outside..but don't screw up.

If you remove the emissions stuff, you HAVE to cap the nipples by each exhasut port.

You had the header off..was there a weird box with a cable wheel (and cables?) right by the collector?

[Shocka311]

So if its an easy job and your able to briefly explain how to change the seal that would be awesome. I don't have a manual yet and I don't really want to wait to do this till I get one, since I am losing lots of oil. As far as the exup, there was nothing attached to the header but there did apear to be some sort of box looking thing surounding the oil filter. I didn't take note of everything but I do remember I think 4, what looked like hoses but could have been cables. Two on each side. I didn't notice where they went to or anything.

[reelrazor]

So if its an easy job and your able to briefly explain how to change the seal that would be awesome. I don't have a manual yet and I don't really want to wait to do this till I get one, since I am losing lots of oil. As far as the exup, there was nothing attached to the header but there did apear to be some sort of box looking thing surounding the oil filter. I didn't take note of everything but I do remember I think 4, what looked like hoses but could have been cables. Two on each side. I didn't notice where they went to or anything.

Yeah, that's NOT the exup stuffthat's the cali air injection/emissions crap. I am talking about UNDER the bike--where the four headers come down to one pipe...

Okay..seal change? Again, DON'T screw up. DO NOT score the crankshaft.

You can get a seal puller like this:

http://www.cornwelltoolsonline.com/CQTP ... PU206.html

or you can do it drywall screw style. You need a couple drywall screws and a drillgun and a couple pairs of good vise grips.

you will also need a flywheel puller-nothing else will really do:

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0027/

get TWO crank seals-93101-26156-00 OIL SEAL I think is the number. They used to have a 'service oil seal' that can be installed from the outside. The factory installed seal will have a rubber ridge in it's outer diameter-you need one that DOESN'T have the ridge....be sure to check this with your dealer. It may be that ALL the seals you can buy from the yamadealer are now the service type.

Get a piece of PVC pipe or a deeeep socket that will fit over the crank and is really close to the outer diameter of the new seal.

get some Yamabond/grey bond sealer (anaerobic sealant)

A) stand bike upright on swinger stand

B) remove stator cover and stator.

C) remove flywheel-don't lose the flywheel key...if it is an offset one (aftermarket advance unit) make sure you note which way the offset is.

D) Either use the seal puller tool-work tip under seal lip and pry. OR: Run two drywall screws 180° apart..about 2mm from the OUTER edge of the seal....keep the screws parallel to the crankshaft....DO NOT run their tips or threads INTO the crankshaft. Run screws in about 1/4 inch. Clamp vise grips on screws pretty close to the seal face. Pry against the vise grip jaws and work the seal out. It may be tough. You may pull the screws out of the seal..if so, put NEW screws 180°apart but pretty close to the holes from the ones that pulled out. Pry on them.

If the seal doesn't come out at this time...stand up, take a break....have a smoke (if you do).

Then get a small screwdriver-like the little pocket ones and drive it between the seal and the case (yes, hammer) try to point it IN-towards the seal a few degrees....this should dent the seal in righ next to the screw.

It SHOULD pry out now..and may leave rubber strips from the 'ridge' mentioned above.

Get a flashlight and examine the seal bore..use a toothpick to clean out the groove for the seal's ridge. Make sure the seal bore is clean aluminum. If you made a score in the bore with the screwdriver or drywall screws, knock the edge off the score with a pocketknife.

Smear a thin film of yamabond on the new seal outer diameter. Smear clean oil on the seal's inner diameter. Get it started in the bore by hand. drive it in square. If you distort it..get it out of there and go to backup NEW seal (told you to buy two didn't I?)-- drive it in square and flush with case.

reinstall flywheel/key/cover etc.

Change oil as soon as you verify no leak.

good luck!

[Shocka311]

awesome, thanks for the help. Just so I understand, what is the exup stuff, what does it do and should I remove it?

[reelrazor]

awesome, thanks for the help. Just so I understand, what is the exup stuff, what does it do and should I remove it?

It is a valve in the exhaust collector....it is controlled by a servomotor (electrical) that is located on the subframe near the seat). It alters backpressure so that torque is retained when revs are low and opens to allow free flow at high rpms. It also has an emissions related advantage in that it helps keep low speed emissions down. That is why the 600s only got it in California. It adds expense and with a 600 who is really looking for torque?

it looks like this (when brand new mind you):

http://www.motorcycleasia.com/images/20 ... xhaust.jpg

the 49 state 600's don't have it.

if you have it, make sure it works. If not, either fix it or sheetcan it and get a header. If it's there and doesn't work it will make yer bike funky. You CAN make sure it is propped all the way open..but it still won't flow as well as a good aftermarket header.

[Shocka311]

Oh I don't have anything like that, I alreadt have a header on there. Thats one less thing I'll have to mess with then. Thanks again.

[Shocka311]

Just to confirm before I do it, anything I need to plug up besides the exhaust ports or anything else I need to worry about when I take the air injection stuff off?

[sweekster]

Just to confirm before I do it, anything I need to plug up besides the exhaust ports or anything else I need to worry about when I take the air injection stuff off?

You'll see where it all comes from after you remove the headers. There should be a 3/8 hole next to each exhaust port. The is about 3/4 of an inch deep and it isn't tapped. Some people have plugged that hole with 3/8 rivets (the best way I think). I tapped it with a 3/8x5/16-18 tap and used 3/8x 1 inch bolts. 3/8 allen head set screws are ideal if you go that route and you can get those at the hardware store. I happened to have the tap and bolts handy. Make sure to put grease or petroleum jelly or something on the tap to keep from getting any of the shavings in the engine. Theres 1 or 2 vent hoses that go up to the carbs that you'll need to plug and that's about it. If you don't see them then I wouldn't worry about it.

Good luck.

[Shocka311]

That helps, Thanks alot